gearbox disaster! what caused this
Turbo Mini Forums

go for it......

you know my thoughts on the subject we have discussed it at length before now........

plenty of tomatoes should sort the problem.....

plenty of tomatoes should sort the problem.....

and cucumbers! tom

whats the thoughts on the ratios???? anyone!

Edited by BENROSS on 12th Sep, 2005.

Try putting some figures in here

http://www.ukmotorsport.com/misc/gears.htm...&fourth=&fifth=

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

that set is the same as mine and miniwilliams along with sc drops and 4 pin diff.

you are right dave but only to a point.

when in first small loading on this gear.
greater loading in second then much more in 3rd but none in 4th.

most strain is when in 3rd this is proberly whne some damage done.

but plenty of quick getaways will strip dam quick.

once rebuilt 2 boxes for one guy (willie knows who he was) this gear was stripped first time around the box was fully rebuilt.

then within two months he stripped it again, i rebuilt it with his father blaming me( knob).
then spoke to his fathers brother who i know well told me he liked racing any thing of the lights and it was only a 1310 80 bhp engine running a 3.4.

so rang his father up told him to stop waisting my time rebuilding boxes unless he stopped this practice, never rang me again dont no why lol.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

im afraid for once dave we will have to agree to disagree on this one.

if you look at the lay shaft loaft for 1st you have small input on to a large output gear (on the lay shaft) small input gear ( on the lay shaft) onto large output gear (ist) just think of it on a bike in first.

in third gear you have the same small gear input onto large output (layshaft) but then you have large input onto small output (3rd gear). think of a bike in 15th gear more energy
requied to move the vehicle forward, thats why when the car is in 3rd the actual accelaration whne in this gear per 1000rpm climbed is slower than say 2nd due to the energy required from the engine to push the car forward.

this means the loading on this gear is higher on all transmission parts which are being used to propelle the car forward.

you would be right if the car was being driven forward in a vacuum.

loading through the transmission is always a two thing.

the engine propelling forward through the transmission and outside forces trying to slow you down at the same time eg hills and wind and aerodynamics will be forceing against the car when moving foward but that goes down when you encounting a down hill slope.


i may not have explained it that well dave, if you still dont agree dave then we will leave it at a score draw proberly how ipswich will play tonight against southhampton.

on a different note t3tone is trying this mega jolt thing so if it works well on his then ill tyr it.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Ok we'll agree to disagree...

Edited by turbodave16v on 13th Sep, 2005.

I was thinking that but fair play, things keep civilised if there is some give and take

torque multiplication anyone?

Dave GO DO SOME WORK!


lol

alex

AlexF

dave and i are to civilised to have layshafts at dawn.

lol

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Oi, Mouth.

You and me outsard, Naarh!!!!

(best southern accent)

bloody nice to see people, even though they don't agree they side are ok about and don't resort to getting all childish on each other, i bow to you both.!

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

http://www.mattwoodsphotography.com

Right - You aswell MW!!!

here is the pic of the straight cut timkin roller idler upgrade i am going to use

i know most of you think this is a little over the top and mini williams & others dont use one

question is ? the advice i recieved from minisspares is totall incorrect

the guy issued free advice with the best intentions

i quote:-

after removing the old bearings from the box and the clutch cover, just make sure that there is a nice slide fitt in the cover and the the box for the idler gear & THATS IT!

i said well surley the two outer stubshafts on this idler should............
be bearing fitted into place so as they dont revolve and wear the casings away!

so the timkin roller does its job like its supposed to.

nar dont bother we havent heard of any problems!

the guy seemed fairly knowlagble & a cival chatty guy

this advice is insane.

i know what i am going to do!


oppinions please!

Edited by BENROSS on 13th Sep, 2005.

just give them to me...

the obviously are unsuitable for your application




























lol

AlexF

alex i could have the normal SC idler gears made up

to the timkin type for a fraction of the cost if there were a demand on hear from them

no big deal.

I would have thought that they want to be at least a light push fit, especially as with the thermal coefficients of aluminium alloy vs bearing steels, the hole in the casing is going to get larger at a faster rate with increased heat than the idler "axle" (for want of a better term)

Im sure the bearings are very free to rotate, and it would work ok simply slid in.

But if it was me, Id be bonding it into the box somehow. Loctite retaining compound or something.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Thinking about it, you only need to bond one end of it don't you, as that will by nature of its construction stop the other end spinning also!
Would make disassembly easier too.

I think if you bonded both sides, you would have serious trouble removing the transfer gear housing.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

The last set I helped someone fit - they were a sliding fit. Never gave any problems.

I've heard of putting a grub screw in the gearbox end web to stop any spinning.

yes the fit is just a nice slide fit in both castings

iam going to bearing fit the gear box side as bearing fit is a little more forgiving!

than some of the perm bond range etc,

right what you said tom i must agree

the grub screw idea is also excellent idea say m4 or m5 with a dimple in the stub.

MAY consider this if i think it would not add to any weakness.

whats the idler tolerance clearance

also the primary gear end float clearance

thanks chaps

BEN:

Prim gear 4 to 6 thou I think from memory?

But they are all in the Metro haynes anyhow!