My Project - K1200RS 1310
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi mini13

It was the diff I was referring to, apparently the MED Quaife is a much bigger unit compared to Swiftunes does anyone know if this is correct, and would that imply a stronger unit?

With regards to ratios, how does it work, is it the lower the number the lower the top speed?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

a 2.9 diff will turn once per 2.9 revolutions of the pinion (i.e. in 4th the engine too as 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio on most min boxes)

a 4.1 diff will turn once per 4.1 revolutions of the pinion so in effect the engine will be revving:

4.1/2.9 = 1.4 times faster if you use a 4.1 over a 2.9 diff

so in short, the lower number, the faster youll be going for a given rpm

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hi, thats a great read, very interesting. As im doing this conversion in the near future!

Could you get some close ups of that oil box/ catcher thing that bolts onto the old fuel pump location? As im interested how it all fits on and works. :)

cheers

all you need is here

http://www.efiminis.olicentral.com/index.php

where? sorry.

Hi,

Been a while since I posted an update. But have made good progress recently. I have taken a few snaps of the engine as I go.

This is a 4 speed dogbox, with needle roller bearings and straight cut transfer gears and Quaife LSD supplied by MED. Excellent piece of kit, very good quality indeed.







You will note that I have changed the centre main bolts from cheese to 12.9 grade cap head, and MSA54s. MSA54s also on outer caps.



However I wasnt happy with the clearance required for the bolts next to the half moon seal (the gearbox modification nearly breaks through casing). In this location:



So I have removed them, and fitted new 6 stripes:



Well seal on both sides of the gasket face, and loctite gasket sealant on both sides of the half moon seal. Gearbox now fitted. Block and gearbox holes enlarged to 5/16'. I have fitted cap head bolts for easier access.





Cams now timed in. I used a safe 2.4mm lift for RS cams using a DTI guage to accurately measure TDC, then placed the pointer on the cam buckets for each the inlet and exhaust respectively. Once on the Dyno or Rolling Road I shall have these timed in further.





36mm throttle bodies installed:



Billet oil filter installed. A little oil inserted into pump prior to installation:



Im now ready to fit my Clutch. This is an MED billet lightened flywheel and backplate, pre verto, pre engaged with orange diaphram.



Ready to be fitted. I am just dry building to check tolerances.



This is the workbench I made a few weeks ago.



All being put together with new stainless steel, or HT Zinc Plated whichever is more appropriate.

I am just awaiting the dowels and primer for the aluminium clutch housing and cover. The Primary gear however is very tight and cannot turn it by hand once the C-clip is in place. So I need to reduce the thickness of the clutch bearing, is this correct?

Hope you enjoyed looking. I am certainly enjoying the build!

Cheers,
Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

you need to decrease the thickness of the bronze ring behind the primary bearing. but first check the condition of the c clip

Youve done it all wrong lad! Very bad job im really not impressed!



Now ill throw it away for you, ill pop round with the trailer later

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Lol.
My stomach sank when I read the first sentence. Phew...
Im going to be a bag of nerves when it gets turned over for the first time.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Hehe looks nice mate

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

I like it too.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Thanks for your comments. Its a lot bigger than what I was expecing.

Just thinking...correct me if im wrong, this will need to be rolling roaded, rather than dyno'd as the intake and exhaust manifolds will be fabricated last, even after the radiator has been installed etc to determine clearances? I would rather have it dyno'd though as its more accurate?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Good skills

Looks nicely done! Make sure you turn the engine over a good few times by hand to check everything is times correctly.

Oh and its worth cranking on the starter with the plugs out for quite a while, to check the belt doesn't track.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Hi, how can I identify if the engine is timed in correctly by cranking it by hand?

Also when you say belt track is this to make sure it doesnt move sideways on the pulleys?

Thanks.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Turning the engine over by hand is to make sure that the pistons dont touch the valves. If they touch you should feel it when turning it over by hand.

Its a safety precaution that i personally would never miss out when building/timing/doing a cambelt on an engine!

And yes.

Ah I see I have turned it over to check, but not the tracking as yet.

Just a thought, im getting close to filling the engine with oil.. but where is it poured? Seeing as there is no oil cap anywhere!

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

fill it through the dizzy hole.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

I use the breather on the transfer housing. just pull the wire mesh out and made a cap for it.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Such a cool looking engine. nice one!

Lightweight racer coming soon.

looks great...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

very nice but orange diaphram on a 200hp engine? you may want to look into that :)

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

it does look very nice, but where's the turbo??

Team Racing

Nice!

How are you doing the oil drains from the head?

Do they go back into the box on the fuel pump hole?

You missed a bit - get your paint out again!

On 8th Jun, 2009 Mr Mini said: