Head Mods
Turbo Mini Forums

I have used Rimflos with turbo since 1996 and they have been absolutely reliable. No signs of detonation. The inlet have seen 42000 miles, current 31 mm exhausts 20000+ miles. The first head had 32 mm valves from Stuart.

Well looks like rimflow all round then

here is a picture of the turbo on the manifold VNT15 have to wait and see if it can stand the heat

Edited by mikemph on 5th Jun, 2005.

Looking good mike, I have just started to redesign my first draft from Solidworks, but have only done most of it off of a small bore head just to cover my CAD assignment at college. Now i am covering it for my Second year project i am going to do it properly! So gotta get me a nice Engine and start the making/ flow bench work and then getting my engine done!!!! Antman

looking good mike

Team Racing

cheers just hope it all works lol. Nothing to lose by giving the VNT a try.

How are you going to actuate the clutch?

ahh I am glad someone noticed. I will do from the timing chain end via an adjustable rod to the clutch arm like the janspeed set up which the wholw set up is closely based on.

I will have to put a slight bend in the arm to clear the turbo. Although I have been looking into actually making a direct acting cylinder in the housing with a bearing on the end. Need to do a few calculations and work out the bore of the cylinder see if it is possible to modify the housing to suit.

Putting the cylinder in the hosing would also keep it away from the exhaust and turbo heat.

Edited by mikemph on 5th Jun, 2005.

I remember seeing a picture of the Janspeed clutch cyl mounted the other end, sounds a good idea, doing a direct acting slave to me sounds like a lot of hard work adapting the end casing and we all know how fussy mini clutches can be about the correct amount of throw etc...

exactly!!!!

Thats what I was thinking about the travel just have to give the long pushrod idea ago for now and see how it goes

Can't you just modify the cluch cover (the wok) such that you can index it round clockwise and mount the slave cyl on the coil bracket lugs at the front of the transfer case?

Now theres a good idea (as always!) from Dave. Or you could maybe make use of the three tapped holes on the rear of the transfer case that are used for the metro engine mounting?

Edit- Argh I see you've already used those for a turbo support bracket.........

Edited by Tom Fenton on 6th Jun, 2005.

I have been looking at moving the cover round as dave said and using the front coil mounting.

That is looking to be the easiest. Cut the starter part off the cover turn the cover round on the normal bolt holes and weld the starter bit back on where it needs to be

Here's a pic of the Janspeed affair, if it's any use to anybody.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

ah ideal had a fair idea of what it was like. Had a closer look at moving the cover round on the bolts turned out that was a no go as this would aslso move the engine mounting with it.

Looks like the janspeed setup or some welding and indexing of the slot for the clutch arm.

Just remembered,some company made hydraulic release bearing used on rwd fords(sort of large dia/short stroke ram with bearing on end)-if it fits then arm not needed at all

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

ive seen those in the demon twonks catalogue

Good idea, but not that novel - Available on EVERY mondeo if you wanted one on the cheap...

yeah demon tweak is what gave me the idea

Mike, when will it all be ready? is this the cheapy budget thing you are doing with that rover cooper of yours?

Looks very nice, is this why wills gearbox and diff aren't finished yet

Rich

Thats the one lol

Yeah wills gearbox should be done pretty soon. Been busy doing other cars. Extra money and all that