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stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland



On 6th Feb, 2011 madmk1 said:



How I did it was with an alloy rad bolted to the wing and a kenlowe fan sucking in air. It had no ducting to push air through it at all and it was with an electric water pump

Well I hope this helps someone




The simple fact you bolted the radiator to the wing, would ensure that no hot air could ever be recirculated back into the engine compartment. Same job as ducting/cowling does.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


alpa

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Grenoble, France

I have an LCD screen with all engine sensors on my Mini, the air temp rises very quickly under boost even at high speed. It's more a matter of the IC surface than air flow.
Inversely, my front water rad (from Metro) does not cool faster with or without the 10' rad switched on, as soon as the car moves. Air flow due to car displacement is so higher that fan does not change anything. All that despite the fact the cooling is very efficient, I can drive 20 minutes on the track, then just stop (and switch on the rad) and water temperature will stay at 80C.

So I'd say fan on IC is useless.
In the same time I'm a bit surprised about how your car behaves. Sure there are less turbulences when tailgating a car (more turbulence means more heat exchange) but still there must be a flow from under the hood to under the car and into wheel passages, low pressure areas.

Edited by alpa on 8th Feb, 2011.

std 998 A+, g295, MD266, RHF4, 109hp @0.8bar/5400rpm


dazibee

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553 Posts
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TRURO, CORNWALL

Alpa, thanks, good information. Engine sensors are the way forwards.

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