help with an rts clutch
Turbo Mini Forums

Good stuff!

I got given 2 complete verto clutch assemblys the other day, one ap and the other valeo, but i have another assembly on the way so hopefully i'll have two aps'

What are peoples thoughts on the material used for the centre hubs. Yet again ive taken my flywheel off to find half of the hub still on the taper of the crank!

Could it possible that excessive heat could cause the hub to heat sufficiently enough for it to expand, and cause fretting on the crank?

Im hoping Mr Austin can save the crank for me, but I need to try and find a solution to the fretting. What are peoples thoughts on tapered splines?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I recon its all this lapping in bollox. That and imballance, which causes the fretting.

I have yet to see a factory fitted flywheel with a fretted taper, they have ALL jumped off with a well toned crack, 998s to 1275s. So why is it when you refit it, it frets?

Going back to the lapping in bollox. Look at it this way. As you 'grind' the taper, you are introducing lots of tiny ridges on both faces of the taper. As you pull the taper together by tightening the bolt, those ridges start to act against each other, preventing them from sliding over each other. In the end, you achieve the desired bolt torque, but you have not stretched the taper as much as is desired, as would be the case if the surfaces were smooth. The flywheel can then move on the taper, and the end result would be the fretting of the two parts.

Thats my theory and i'm sticking with it

Quite probably a good reason why not, but if my understanding is correct, the fretting is due to small movements between crank and fly, these over time cause the high spots to pick up, this then gets worse and worse.
Now my thought is, introduce a dry film lubricant such as graphite, this should allow the flywheel to slide further up the taper for the same bolt torque loading. Then the tighter interference should prevent any of the movement that causes the fretting.

On the other hand, refer to practical experience, or in other words, talk to Carl about how he installs flywheels. As the one on the DON has been on and off a few times, its bloody tight, shoots about 6ft when it does let go of the taper, but no fretting.

Ive just found this, which is quite interesting.

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=oqqhmgb...retting&f=false

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I've got that book on the shelf

i used the theory of heating ( or rather warming) the flywheel and torquing it onto a cold crank so when i cools it grabs, and it was a bastard getting it of when i thought the primary oil seal had gone

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.

Mine came from Robert himself, I do not have the ability to build something like this. From talking to him it is obvious that there is more work that can be put in to the clutch to make it work better, hence why some RTS's feel different to others.

Thus one concludes there are improvements that can be made.

Your prices are more than reasonable, did I say there were rules that must be followed?
Its just a bit brave to say that if AP made an RTS it would be almost identical to yours.

Its the same as me thinking if Jesus was going to make cheese on toast it wouldn't look too different to mine.
However we are never likely to know this, as in reality Jesus isn't likely to make cheese on toast.

Mmm cheese on toast. If your make some Nic I will have a slice

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.

I think the price is fantastic especially since you have put the extra thought and all the leg work into it

but in fairness if AP racing was to built one it would probably look like a standard riveted one with 2 springs

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

If AP made one, it would be a single spring of appropriate thickness.

Jesus doesn't work in our canteen, so I played safe and had marmalade on my toast.

My clutch is made by carlsberg...

Have you made any changes to the drive straps? Im running 4 on mine, i thought better be safe than sorry.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Can anyone tell me what kind of verto clutch this is please.
http://m1145.photobucket.com/albumview/alb...F8.jpg.html?o=0

thats an AP

On 9th Feb, 2012 matty said:
My clutch is made by carlsberg...

Have you made any changes to the drive straps? Im running 4 on mine, i thought better be safe than sorry.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Well good work then, I hope it goes well for you Sprocket, After your past issues with your engine, I hope you get the machining of this correct otherwise your bollox may take a pounding! As how many have you tested mate as these could be very dangerous!

Edited by Miniwilliams on 10th Feb, 2012.

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.

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Edited by Sprocket on 11th Sep, 2012.