Help! MG Turbo won't start
Turbo Mini Forums

Greetings,
I have a 1986 MG Metro Turbo that had an intermitent starting/flooding issue. I rebuilt the carb with the genuine HIF Turbo kit, and now it won't start at all.
It's getting fuel to the carb and spark to the plugs...is there something I'm overlooking in the electronics or Turbo system that would prevent this thing from starting?
Can I remove the "induction cover" from the carb while diagnoseing and trying to start without ill affects?
Thanks
Pete

Yes you can remove the "induction cover", or plenum chamber as it is correctly called.

Has the engine ever ran?

If so has the timing(distributer position) been changed?...

IF timing not changed it must be a fuel issue if you still have a spark.

Always try starting on a fully charged battery.

Try squirting some fuel down the mouth of the carb.

Are you using the choke?

Is the carb and regulator plumbed in correctly?

Is the float chamber tap sticking?

Go through those things, i can't be any thing major as is it is simple kit realy.

JF.

With the induction cover off, or just the silicone joiner pipe taken off, when starting, cover and block the air intake with a cloth for a few seconds see if it tries to start then

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

i would like to add

check that you have not got any pipes wrong!

failing that on the over fueling it could be the float bowl jet sticking ??

Thanks..
I managed to get it started, on 2 occasions. Once, it acted awful, as if it was getting too much fuel, and I had to keep it alive with the pedal. Then after turning it off, it wouldn't restart for a good half hour...and then.
FINALLY it started and it ran like a dream!!

Having taken the plenum chamber off, I had to re-install that, and by the time I was ready to "gleefully" take it for a test drive, it stalled and wouldn't restart. I again took off the plenum chamber, heat shield and took off the damper cover. With a small length of hose I was able to easily suck some fuel from the top of the jet, so i don't think I've got a blockage. Even starter fluid won't start it now.
I noted that all of those components I removed (plenum and carb damper cover) were VERY hot...could I be experiencing vapor lock?
Thanks for your help
Pete

Have you checked and if neccessary adjusted base fuel pressure?

This must be 3.5-4psi.

If it now will not start have you overhauled the ignition system, e.g. new plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap?

Edited by Tom Fenton on 13th Aug, 2006.

Tom,
Thanks.
Yes, I've gone over the ignition system, all is well, and I always have spark on these occasions when it won't start.

I will check the fuel pressure. I assume by this you mean the standard pressure at idle or in my case "cranking speed"??
Thanks again.
Pete

it sounds like it could be the float jet, i had this same problem on mine by the sounds of it, basically it sticks open and replacement is required

on mine i found that if i switched off the fuel pump and turned the car over, then once it had started, switch the pump back on it would work fine

or you drain the petrol out of one of the unions of the carb (i cant remember which one this was, but its the one people usually block off)

The fuel pressure can be checked by disconnecting the pipe from the regulator to carburettor and placing a gauge there.

With the fuel pump running you need to see 3.5 - 4psi.

If it is a metro turbo with the original wiring setup then you will need to disconnect the wire to the oil pressure switch for the pump to run with just the ignition turned on.

On the metro you should also be able to see the fuel returning to the tank as the return line is plumbed in near the filler neck. With the pump running you should be able to see an appreciable amount of fuel returning to tank.

Thanks for all the help, its much appreciated. It turns out the NEW rebuild kit, included a defective float needle. There was a split in the plastic, causing it to be oversized and it was stuck in the needle, not able to slide in or out.
My MG Turbo is alive and well for the first time in along time. Ready to tear up the streets..
Thanks again
Pete

peter is it a standar turbo ????

if it is?

why dont you mod it,
some gents on have in excess 220 BHP with the A series