Engine build oil!
Turbo Mini Forums

Went to local motor factors and asked the guy what would be a good oil to build/run in the engine on.

He reccomended a basic mineral oil as synthetics are too good it wont give the rings or bearings a chance to bed-in. so i got some 15w40 mineral stuff for the shells and everytihng else and will use that for running in too.

Just wondered what you chaps use and see if the stuff i got is up to the job?

Rich

Get the cheapest oil you can find, then change it often. Happy Shopper Multigrade or anything like that is fine.

To build it get some proper engine build paste. I use stuff called Graphogen, this stuff is the dogs, I once heard a story about a guy who built an engine on this stuff, then started it up but forgot to put oil in. Apparently it ran OK for 5 minutes before it shit itself.

Edited by Tom Fenton on 22nd Aug, 2006.

Haha cool! So what happens to this paste when it mixes with oil does it dissapear or what? Do i just use it for the main and big end bearings and use a bit of oil on gudgeon pins and rings etc?

another old, like me......... but excellent product i use is........ STP OR WYNNS oil addative to build the engine

worked for me & many others for over 30 years

Edited by BENROSS on 22nd Aug, 2006.

As it gets hot it mixes and runs away. Use a smear on the bearing shells BUT ONLY ON THE CRANKSHAFT SIDE, THE REAR OF THE SHELL MUST MUST MUST BE DRY OR ELSE THE ENGINE WILL LOCK UP.

Because if it was greased it would become un seated, move and lock the crank right?

I am sure Tom is meaning that if you lube the underside of the bearing it will in fact possibly make it seem thicker and therefore be tighter than it should be on the crank once torqued up.

Wilkinson multigrade for me, £3.15 a chuck, even after a rebuild where a run in is not necessary, just to get ant foriegn bodies out that may have floated in.

Then chuck in the good stuff. Silkoline Pro R in my case.

JF.

asda value is £2.89 at the moment in 5 liters of 20-50