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Rob H

4314 Posts
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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

Here we go with another of my dull as dish water posts:

What spec bolts are people using to connect their front tie bars to the to bottom arms? I've currently got good old grade 5 (which I use for every thing when I don't know waht bolt to use) but thinking about the loads going throught these little 5/16th bolts I'm wandering if I should get a pair of grade 8. What do you reckon, other than I need to get out more.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


BENROSS

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9812 Posts
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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

well 8.8 grade are fine but..... i go over the top

just because i have hundreds of them

i use M8 cap screws with a long shank on them & a nylock nut grade 12.9

now these are realy over the top ....lol






fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

yes you nee dto get out more,lol,

use alloy .

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

Another thing to make sure of is that the shank is long enough to go most of the way through the arm and tie bar, as the threads are a slightly smaller diameter and that can lead to movement in the connection.

I also use 12.9 grade capheads as per Benross.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


AlexF2003

5795 Posts
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AFRacing LTD

Newbury, Berks

I use whatever's on the floor LOL

Alex

AlexF


Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

cable ties???


Mirage

538 Posts
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Staffordshire or Northamptonshire

Use caps. these are best for stressed high loads situations. As Tom sais it is important that all the loads from the components are supported on the smooth area of the bolt ( Called the Grip also commonly called the shank). The thread is only there to put a nut on or to screw into thread, Not for supporting loads.


fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

USE ALLOY.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Rob H

4314 Posts
Member #: 700
Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

On 01/09/2006 22:56:23 fastcarl said:

USE ALLOY.


Why alloy? I'd have thought it would have a weaker in terms of shearing than steel.

I'm also assuming that the nut doesn't need to be as high a specification as the bolt as tensile force is less than the shearing force.

Right I'm off to look for a pair of grade 8.8 bolts with long shanks and a woman, anyone got the number for screw fix *happy*

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


Tom Fenton
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15300 Posts
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

I *think* Carl is referring to alloy STEEL bolts....


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

i wondered how long it would take you clever Tom,

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

your right carl, i need to get out more! buddy.........lol

Rob pm me with your address and i will pop some in the post for you






Mirage

538 Posts
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Staffordshire or Northamptonshire

Generally speaking the BZP nuts you get from propper suppliers will be fine. Remember the bolt has to endure all its tensile load through its cross section. The nut on the other hand is kinda in compression and the force is spread over a number of turns of thread into the body of the nut. As a general rule you should have 1.5 times your bolt diameter to thread into. So if your using an 8mm bolt you should be able to screw it into 12mm of female thread.

Use cap head bolts where you can on suspension etc. Money well spent if it stops a corner falling of and you a trip to hospital. On a good race car build you wont see anything less than a 12.9 Cap and usually even better aerospace bolts.

All imperial caps are 12.9 unless its stamped on the head as anything different, i have seen 10.9's. So if its a good imperial cap with nothing on the head its a 12.9. All metric caps have the spec stamped on them.

Good bolts are made by the likes of Unbrako and Holo-Krome.

think i need to get out more to, sounds like i have a bolt fetish !!! lol


AlexF2003

5795 Posts
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AFRacing LTD

Newbury, Berks

thast greet info there Mirage (whats ya real name I can't call you that lol).

I ought to get some proper bolts then :)

alex

AlexF


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

so wheres a good bolts suppliers then in the northwest or tinternet, theres one near my work but they dont sell individual items you have to spend a fortune. and id often worried about them little tiny bolts on the tie bars.*smiley*

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Mirage

538 Posts
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Post Whore

Staffordshire or Northamptonshire

My names Richard but everyone calls me Barney.

To be honest getting the quality of bolts your looking for from a local supplier is difficult. Most will stock a some metric caps but few stock any imperial. If you want them they will usually order you a box which may be between 50 - 100 bolts.

Have a look at http://www.tridentracing.co.uk

I use these guys a lot as they are local to me at work. They are not cheep but they do carry a very good stock of just about any imperial or metric cap you would want. This includes button and countersunk heads. They also carry good range of aircraft spec fasteners, but these are VERY expensive, but are exellent and look the t*ts. The 12 pointed head ones are usually the best quality. These have to be used with special washers under the head as they have a large radius under the head.

I just got myself a load of titanium NAS bolts for my own formula ford im building. These are so sexy !!! lol


Joe C

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12307 Posts
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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

On mine I used 998 rod bolts and drilled the arms out to suit, they have a nice shank to locate on and A+ head or big end nuts fit, all high grade items from the spare bits bucket!

One of my favorite tricks is to use A+ bigend or head nuts wherever possible, for example the fit on the bottom arm pin with the wiggle in it. I've also used them on the rear front subframe mounts (need drilling bigger though).

Edited by Joe C on 3rd Sep, 2006.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/


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