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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Ign timing to suit cam(up dated) ?

Dangerous

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Swindon

Had the metro tuned thursday timing set at 8 btdc 1500rpm vac pipe off(std metro turbo setting),went out and very little power below 3000rpm,struggling to pull away but fine when moving

Then I noticed the printout I got said 19.8 degrees at 1112rpm ??

Checked timing myself and it is indeed 8 (vac pipe off at 1500 rpm) and the dizzy lines up with a mark I made on the block before I changed the cam and head

The cam now is a 276 and is timed in right,took me ages to do and it was only a degree or 2 out from where the unadjustable pulleys whould have put it .The head is leaded now where it was unleaded before(running on lead additive now)

I've now turned the dizzy approx 3mm(on the shoulder)clockwise and it goes way better,havn't checked what figure that is yet


Just going to check that the pulley hasn't moved on the rubber ring so the timing marks are out ,as no one has done this

But is it ok to run 18 btdc degrees and ignore the std 8 as the car seems fine on it,I need the car for work this week and will only run it at 3psi


Thankyou Dangerous

Checked the pulley and the timing marks line up with tdc fine

Checked with strobe 18 btdc at 1500 with no vac pipe,goes round loads more with vac pipe on

Edited by Dangerous on 3rd Sep, 2006.


Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!



BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

as long as it does not det bri you will be fine buddy

but .... as soon as you run higher boost figures det will set in very fast.

whats your CR ratio ????

Edited by BENROSS on 3rd Sep, 2006.






Dangerous

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Swindon

cr approx 9:1
done a search of old posts and some are running 18+btdc and 25 fixed so it's not just me

Yes think I got it now

std cam is 9/41 inlet so full lift 25
mg cam 16/56 full lift 36
276 29/61 full lift 45

so my inlet is open 20 degrees earlier

It will do till I get the megajolt on



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Turbo Phil

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Lake District

I have to run mine at at least 15deg at 1,500 rpm other wise it's flat as hell and it's really hard to pull away.
I usually run 20deg and i've never had any trouble, but i'm having to run it at 13deg at the moment as i had to retard the total advance when running 16psi for the rolling road setup.
It's a real pain pulling out of road ends now, so i'm going to limit the total advance of the dizzy with a blob of weld on the stop, then i can swing the timing a little, this should be ok then.

Phil. *smiley*

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Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Phil, junk the dizzy and move to the megajolt buddy, this is the way forward.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


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turbo hogster

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stowmaket suffolk

or go for fixed advance like mine , mine is fixed at 27 deg but retards to 24 deg when over 3500 it does this on its own ( its a bit worn i think)

ive been told is much safer with fixed adv than using machincal advance as this can vary a lot when uder quick boosted suituations and can lead to det.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas


Dangerous

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Swindon

On 03/09/2006 18:22:35 Turbo Phil said:

I have to run mine at at least 15deg at 1,500 rpm other wise it's flat as hell and it's really hard to pull away.


Hey that sounds like mine
What cam is that running ?


Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!



AlexF2003

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AFRacing LTD

Newbury, Berks

why would you want fixed timing?

that would be the worst of both worlds!

Get MJ on it *happy*

Alex

AlexF


Turbo Phil

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My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

On 03/09/2006 21:45:03 Dangerous said:

On 03/09/2006 18:22:35 Turbo Phil said:

I have to run mine at at least 15deg at 1,500 rpm other wise it's flat as hell and it's really hard to pull away.


Hey that sounds like mine
What cam is that running ?



Phase 3 mate. *smiley*

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM


andeh

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Near Daventry, midlands

the problem you've got bri is that the std turbo cam is the same as a std NA cam and this requires a very differnt advance curve than the 276 (which was my na cam aswell). you dont need any more total advance, maybe even a bit less depending on boost levels, but you need a lot more low down to compensate for the naff cylinder filling capabilities of the 276 at low revs. This is only compounded by having a low c/r.

I think you have two choices, other than sticking with the std:

Re-map the std dissy advance curve to suit the 276 cam - you can DIY this, but it is a pita, AC Dodd can also do this for a small fee (this is what i did for my backup)

Go for MS/MJ which is the route everyone else is taking as you can have a much more precise and load varying advance curve, but im sure you already knew this *smiley*

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie


Dangerous

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Swindon

Ive just started collecting and ordering bits for a mj,think that will fix it.
still been driving it a few days now still running fine on 18/20 degrees.Had a quick try on 8psi and hit 50 in first gear with no problems,but won't be doing that again till its all set up


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