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Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Has anyone had dealings with 106 rear suspension?

My mums 1.1 106 Zest 2 has a nasty crab to is and the gap between the rear of the tyre and arch is visibly less on the drivers side (although the tyres don't seem to be wearing excessivly).

I've had a google around and I think theres two possible reasons,

1) the car had someone clip the drivers rear corner, this could have bent something (althogh it was a small knock and only marked the alloy and tyre so i'm hoping thats unlikley)

2) The bearings/bushes are knackered, if they are whats involved in replacing them? is it a DIY job as the haynes manual says it's "considered beyond the scope of the DIY mechanic" and therefore gives no information on whats involved.

So, if anyone's worked on the rear end of a 106 any info would be great so I can be prepared for when i jack it up tomorow night for a proper looksie.

Cheers,

Joe.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

Trailing arm bearings are knackered I would say with 99% certainty.

This is a 205 GTI favourite for going wrong, but some of the newer models are now getting to the age where problems are starting to appear.

If it was a 205 GTI then I would go through telling you how to go about replacing the trailing arm bearings, as second hand beams in good condition are few and far between and fetch a hefty premium. However, a 106 beam will be found in pretty much any scrappy in the land, and if you look about you should be able to find one that is only a few years old and has done not too many miles.

Buying a second hand beam and swapping it over would be my recommendation as the cheapest and easiest way to sort it. Think of it like changing a mini subframe, only without the rust and seized fixings to worry about.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Thanks for that Tom,

Bugger, I suspected that may be the case, either its fooked because its bent and I have to change the whole assy or its fooked cos its worn out...... and i have to replace the whole assy,

hmmmm, how bad are the 205 beams to refurb? (i assume they are similar) As it my mums car I'd like to be absolutley sure its done right, so i'm thinking about doing it myself or getting an exchange beam, (seen them for around £350) with so many dodgey pikeys round this way i've developed a bit of a scrapyard phobia.

Also I should have mentioned the car is a P reg with around 80k on the clock, is that not a little early to be worn?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Tom Fenton
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15302 Posts
Member #: 337
Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

They are not that hard to do once you have the beam to pieces, however that can be a REAL pain in the cunt to achieve.

I have done 3 or 4 205 beams, for a 106 I would take your chances on a £80-odd scrapyard beam. I have seen cars newer than P reg with knackered beams, in actual fact it is often the gently driven cars as they do not get as much suspension movement so the needle rollers wear out in one place and then collapse. If it has got really bad then it can have worn out the beam cross tube and pivot shafts which means more work and more money.

Find yourself a dedicated Peugeot breaker and buy a beam from them, you will pay slightly more but will probably get a 3 month g'tee.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Righto mate,

that make a lot of sense about the more lightly driven cars, i was thinking if this ones been driven gently then what are other going to be like!!

Can you give a description of what i'll need to look for when i'm buying a S/H beam, can/will any waer be masked if the beam isn't sitting at working height?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Tom Fenton
Site Admin

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15302 Posts
Member #: 337
Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

There are two things to check for, firstly, the wheel should be evenly spaced front-to-back in the wheelarch. If the beam bearings are worn quite often it will be sitting further back.

Secondly check for excessive negative camber, most of the modern Peugeots will appear to have a little negative as standard, but if you see one with lots then again the bearings have probably collapsed. Make sure both sides have equal amounts.

When the weight is off its wheels, check for play in the trailing arms in much the same way you would check a Mini's radius arms.
With it off the car make sure that it is not seized by placing it on the floor and testing the spring of the arms with your foot, although I don't think that 106's with their softer torsion bars suffer from this (the 205 GTI's do).

If it passes all those tests then its most probably a good'un!

One avenue you could explore is some of the Peugeot forums, as a lot of the 106 boys will be removing standard drum-braked rear beams to replace them with disc braked beams from higher spec 106's, so they may be willing to flog on their old beams cheaply. Also a Saxo beam is the same thing.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Quality!!*happy*

Thanks a bundle Tom, I'll stop bothering you now!!

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Strange.....

Both sides have the same amount of camber (to the eye). the RH wheel appears to be further back in the arch (6-8mm). but with both rear wheels off the ground I can't detect any wear to the pivot, ie grabing the wheel and tugging/pushing the only movement is a tiny bit in the rear rubber "subframe" mounts.

I reckon somthing must be bent... or i'm missing something.

although i'm pretty handy with most stuff mechanical i think i'll get a second opinion (rather than mine) from someone who's worked on pugs before, a girl at works husbands a mobile mechanic (a pretty damn good one too!) i'll try to get him to take a look.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/


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