Help with a Pre Verto Clutch problem
Turbo Mini Forums

The pre verto clutch on the 1275 GT is, well, lets say, odd!

I am not resposible for how it is, but just want to get to the bottom of the issue, my mate not helping matters.

As it stands. The slave cyinder had siezed, my mate bought a new one that looked alot like a verto slave???( any difference other than the blead nipple????) Ontop of this the push rod is extended by using a piece of tube over the original, thus moving the arm further out. With out this extention the slave piston is nowhere near the push rod.

To add to this, it needs to be that length(slightly thrown out) to keep the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the diaphragm spring/cover from catching the wok. Not only this but there is only what i would considder a small amount of movement whan depressing the pedal. There is no air in the system either.

Oh and the either the pressure plate or flywheel have been lightened by the then RaceSpec of Warrington. My mate cant remember which part has been lightened. Am i right in saying that there is something to do regarding lightened parts and the mounting posts/ washers/ tabs???

Firstly, there is two different slaves, but what is the actual difference?

Why are the bolts catching the wok in the first place with no throwout whatso ever?

Hope some of this may ring some bells with people and point out the stupid mistakes causing this laughable situation of bodge after bodge that aparently works. That has yet to be seen.

I think the tread the pipe fits too is different between the two(pre verto unf/verto fine metric??)
Is the flywheel on far enougth(should overhang the end of the crank by about .040"

I've bent the arm before to get it to work

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

Firstley the pressure plate is Goosed! this is causing the extended arm your mate bodged up

Fit a new pressure plate!
and then revert to a standard length rod

the flywheel needs to be packed up by the same amount as the metal which was removed when lightend (under the drive straps)

usually this is around 8 mm
i turn down spacers for this purpose 15mm od x 3/8" id x 8mm

keep us informed

The drive straps don't make a huge amount of difference - but basically they should be either level, or just under level (backplate end lower than the flywheel end when the flywheel is sat on the bench) such that when the friction plate wears by the smallest amount they're then sitting level.

The arm is mostly down to worn parts, but tolerance stackup has a lot to do with it - aswell as the slightest wear on every part making a huge difference along the way.

This is one of the better guides IMO (LOL)

http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/technical...bleshooter1.htm




I have no idea what bolts you're reffering to here however....

Edited by turbodave16v on 17th Sep, 2006.