moving engine mounts
Turbo Mini Forums

Had a play at mocking up the front rad (a late metro) tonight, and it seems theres just no way its gonna fit, even the old style inertia starter is on the verge of fouling the back of the grill

its a flip front so theres no slam panel, using one of petes tiny alternators, and have a remote oil filter, this considering, i thought it would have slotted straight in...but no...:)


So.......i am thinking about maybe drilling the engine mounts in the subframe a little further back, whats the most i can go with this??

need pretty much all the room i can get..

thanks

jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

There should be enough room with the old style inertia starter? Ive managed to get enough room with the new style starter and just re-drilling the starter mounts to rotate it so the solenoid is at the top. There should be a fair few inches between the grill and the starter!

The main problem for me was the dizzy, decided to go mj.

Im pretty sure it can be done, the main problems are, drive shaft fouling on subframe, exhaust on bulkead, turbo fouling on bulkhead, gear linkage length!

If you don't mind cutting the front valence you can get at least another inch there?

EDIT: just re-read your post. flip front should be loads of room! Lol

Edited by matty on 4th Oct, 2006.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

which rad? Mk1 or Mk2.

The Mk2 rads are thinner and you can, if your real gentle, massage a curve into it

You need to remove the top and bottom rails though.

If rover on post 92 cars can get away with moving the engine 10mm forward from the original position. I dont see there being any detrimental effect in moving it 10mm backwards. This is my plan for the 16v, but i'll be moving it 20mm as i have a post 92 frame. What you will need is a shorter engine steady and to re drill the rod change mounts in the tunnel.

Edited by Sprocket on 4th Oct, 2006.

mine pissed in with a flip front dude, loads of room spare, even with a dizzy in there and my injection subframe. I've got the thinner metro rad with hoses at either end rather than on one side.

Edited by Nick on 4th Oct, 2006.

its the thinner mk2 rad goddammit! the more i think about it the more pissed off i get LOL


gonna measure the flip front up tomorrow, see if its dimensions are stock...hmmmm

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

pretty sure you've already seen these but pics usually help.

thats the hole it lived in


then an old pic of it first fitted

wheres the oil cooler gone in the 2nd pic?!

the 2nd one is an older pic from when i didnt have the oil cooler....you can just see the stock mutro one over to the right hand side.

ihave the thick metro mk 1 rad in mine , i trimmed the front valance a bit , it sits on top of the subframe , i trimmed the fins back for the starter sol to clear ,and moved the stock alternator upwards about 5 inches ill find a pic .robert.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

could you fit the metro mk2 type in a non flip 'round nose' front end along with a 2wd cossie intercooler do you think?
any pics?
cheers
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

This is a good example of that setup, although you have to move the grill forward to do it.



Jon Flanigan has the neatest setup like that ive seen, although im pretty certain he's managed to squeeze a cossie 4wd cooler in!

Edited by matty on 5th Oct, 2006.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i take it its well worth the effort to fit in the metro rad as its bigger and gets alot of the cool air coming in through the grill.
(better than the 2core rad from ms?)
what about the mpi rad or is that the same as the mk2 metro?

cheers
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

All of these need work, in that you can kiss your bonnet lock goodbye. Which is fine if your mini is a track car or never goes on the road I guess?

I certainly wouldn't want to leave a car anywhere with just bonnet pins stopping some pikey from doing mischief.

Mpi rad is a nice modern design that is just under half the width of the metro rad. Very efficient for its size aswell.

easy fix for that Dave, just use a small padlock through one of the bonnet pins

I use small padlocks just in case but i dont really leave the mini anywhere as it is a secound car!

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

yup that'd have been me, i was on the massive MF stand, all 3 of us...lol

On 4th of Oct, 2006 at 11:36pm Mini Sprocket said:
which rad? Mk1 or Mk2.

The Mk2 rads are thinner and you can, if your real gentle, massage a curve into it

You need to remove the top and bottom rails though.

If rover on post 92 cars can get away with moving the engine 10mm forward from the original position. I dont see there being any detrimental effect in moving it 10mm backwards. This is my plan for the 16v, but i'll be moving it 20mm as i have a post 92 frame. What you will need is a shorter engine steady and to re drill the rod change mounts in the tunnel.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

well funny this should be brought up, as i resolved this last weekend, im pretty much stuck with a side rad now for 2 reasons.

1, ive been pissed from pillar to post twice now on tmf by people 'selling' there mpi rads.

2, form the picture below:



....you can see that the front fits really nice and snug, but the bulge that the bumper lip is usually welded to is up against the front of the subframe, so the 'shelf' bit (under the grill) is pretty much sat on the front subframe cross member.

So although im pleased with the front ends looks and fit, its left me with FA room underneath for a frontmounted rad.

bit gutted, but sod it, got a clubby front end on the way if i ever decide ones essential, plus it will save me a fair wad in the meantime sticking with my old rad setup.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Joey ... where did you get that front from. Just so I know not to get it because I have to have a bit of space on mine for the plenum / IC / front rad for the K head conversion.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Its one from SMB composites, although the reason its 'tight' is probably due to me shaving a little too much off when i bonded the a-panels on (this was before they were available with a panels).

If I were you roger, id go with a clubman front end like bud, problem solved.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Using a clubman front is cheating!!!!! LOL

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

No Roger.. Cutting the front off is cheating.
Regards
Dave

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.