Brake probs
Turbo Mini Forums

i have alot of travel in my pedal although the cars stops well its a bit un-nerving

its cooper s single line setup with cooper calipers swapped for the minispares four pots

is there 2 master cylinders? i am wondering if i have one for drums rather that disks as they look the same

have they been bleed properly?

3 times

Rear shoes adjusted properly - to the point they're always binding slightly?

I actually wind adjusters right in, then loosen them off slightly, then crank the handbrake a few times, then re-adjust them.

What you could do to see where the problem lies is remove the drums and rear shoes, and pop a pair of G-clamps over each wheel piston. This will basically make the system 'solid'.

If the pedal now has little travel - it tells you where the problem was / is

i had a similar problem with my minisport 4 pot calipers, havnt resolved the problem as yet due to the car being taken off the road after 500 miles for a re-build but the pedal issue sounds similar to what i had

im using minispares 4 pots too and had the same problem. i bled them god knows how many times and eventualy bought an ezibleed kit as a last resort, it sorted it first try. i know a lot of people ive talked to have had trouble with bleeding them too.
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

strange, i bought an easybleed kit as well but it still didnt totally cure the problem. Now its off the road i will be replacing all the break lines etc so hopefully will have better luck when its back on the road next year

what padds are you using with them mate?
i had the same problem as you with these brakes. (iv got the ones for 10"wheels)
iv got the rear drums set so there binding a bit more than usall i would say.
i had to bleed them about 5 time and every time i got a little bit of air out.
what i did on the last one was, got the pedal so it was pumped up and put a piece of wood wedged imbetween the steering wheel and the pedal over night.
then it felt better.
also the green stuff pads i used made it feel worse untill they were very hot! iv now got black stuff pads on.
hope this helps

cheers
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

i had the same problem as you wolfie

are yours the cast or billet type? the billet ones had a problem with faulty nipple seats

i have the billet ones and have used an easy bleed everytime so far

will have another go tomorrow

I don't really get the ezi bleed...

it says max psi 20 but even if you stick it in a tyre with 40 in undo the nipple and the fluid only really trickles out, not enough IMO to get any air locks out.

I use the ezi bleed as to stop back flow, crack the nipple with a pipe on it into a milk bottle nip round pump the pedal a few times to really get some fluid through then tighten the nipple.

worth a try if you havent already.

tbh mine may have bled through with the ezibleed because it had some usage between bleeding it normaly and then using the ezibleed :S
im sure i read somewhere that moving up to a 3/4in ? master cylinder is worthwhile and gives a better pedal but tbh i found mine to be spot on once the air was gone so i never bothered folowing up on it
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

Perhaps you have the wrong cylinder size,I have .750 for the front (ap 4 pots) and .625 for the rears(drums)

If you have the small size one it will require more travel to work the calipers,the large size one will have less travel but the pedal will be harder

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

if you have rubber flexies on the rear , clamp one side off with mole grips and try the peddal if it goes good its that side badly adjusted, if not leave that one clamped and repeat on other side,


carl

Edited by fastcarl on 6th Nov, 2006.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

pump the pedal and hold it down with a lump of wood against the seat over night.

cheap, easy and works!!!!

i might be wrong, but i think all generic alloy billet calipers (bar KAD) are made by hope?

Ive got 2 sets of the minispares cast ones, and had no problems so far touch wood.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

oops

Edited by Nic on 7th Nov, 2006.

my turbo 4 pots are the same mate, i still think its down to the s master cylinder has a two smaller bore to cope with the extra travell needed to push out the extra area on the 4 pots.

let me no how you get on.

but i just give a quick press of the brake peddal before the proper push then they haul up great.

ps i use standard 4 pot pads and found they work supurb because they are vented.

hope this helps

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

so what size is standerd in a 998, 1987 mini then? just out of interest and to see if i can improve my brake feel, although i dont think i can improve on it any more.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

i would guess any new modern split front rear master cylinder would do.

mine is the old s type and i think its not upto the job.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Use remote master cylinders from here

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BRAKE-&-..._192/index.html

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

i take it this is what the challange cars use?

Yep here a pic of Jons .625" for the back .750" for the front with adjustable bias,I recon you could use a .750" on its own on a single circuit set up,with a adjustable reg for the rears

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

i just use the standard 3/5 bore master on both my cars wioth 4 pots, pedals short and solid.

have you mad esure your rears are adjusted right up.

Edited by fastcarl on 9th Nov, 2006.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Just had a quick test,The mounting holes line up with a mini ok,may need the rod shortening and a resevior that fits under the bonnet(or you could put it on a pipe somewher remote,as long as it's high enougth)

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!