still got clutch issues
Turbo Mini Forums

things doing my head in now

if i adjust the big nut and small bolt correctly i cant engage a gear, i have to wind out the bolt a couple of turns into the arm so that i can engage gear but then obviously i am not getting the clamping pressure i need

WTF am i doing wrong? its on its second plate second flywheel new back plate (machined) and new grey

only thing i can think of is wrong/faulty master/slave cylinders not thowing clutch arm out enough?

theres no air in the system

Edited by wolfie on 26th Nov, 2006.

Take the carpet out so the pedal goes down further

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

I have seen this before .......

Everything looks right and even feels right but you just can't get enough travel.

No explaination as to why but this always works .........


completely return the slave cyl to it's least extended position.

Remove clutch cover

Remove release bearing.

Clean area the release bearing fits

Replace release bearing being sure that it's all in good nick.

Manually actuate the arm a couple of times, make sure there isn't excess play in the system

Reassemble but don't connect the slave

Set throw out stops without the slave conected.

Again check there is no wear in the push rod etc.

Now fit the push rod and slave then actuate a couple of times then bleed.

Now you should be up and running.

I really can't explain it as there is nothing there other than the normal but every time I have had a friend who's system isn't working after a rebuild the above works. Might just be a care and attention thing, not sure, no good explaination.

Last time I had something like this it was on an engine that had been running fine, the owner had replaced the bearing on a noisy idle gear and rebuilt it with no other new parts. Didn't work.

he changed the release bearing, release arm, push rod, thow out link and stops and slave. Still didn't work.

I went over, rebuilt it for him using the above and it worked first time.

As I say, no good explaination....

Edited by RogerM on 26th Nov, 2006.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/technical...bleshooter1.htm

Follow the above after winding the big nut all the way out - ie so you can remove it from the equation.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

cheers will have another go tomorrow

Just another thought ...... the retaining spring ring ..... sometimes it can be sensitive to orientation ... try it so the open ends are towards the diaphram.

No idea if it should matter but some times it seems too...

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Have you checked 100% for wear in the ball/socket at the bottom of the arm? As VERY little wear adds up to a lot of axial travel lost.

The wear on the ball can be sorted with the pushrod check. My 'ball' is well worn, and has been for a long time - but the lengthened pushrod does the job.

oh - and the correct slave is the one that doesn't have a 'hook shape' cast into it behind the bleed screw

i.e. this one is for a verto: http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/images/te...clutch/fig2.jpg

And the one just visible here is for a pre-verto:
http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/images/te...clutch/fig4.jpg

Edited by turbodave16v on 27th Nov, 2006.

the arm, the realese bearing and the ball socket bit are all new, i have the correct slave cylinder

what about the master cylinder could this be wronfg or are they the same ?

AFAIK the master cyls are all the same bore.

Have you tried spacing out the pushrod using a 5/16" nut? Its a bit of a bodge but it may get you away?

my mate had a 1380 that his mechanic fitted. i went there with him to pick it up and the clutch wasent engaging. so the mechanic got out his blow torch, heated up the arm and started smashing it with a hammer!!!!! i just thought to my self what a dodgy basturd!! he turned to me and said everyone has to bend these bloody things, fooking minis!!
and guess what... he still has proplems with the clutch to this day after god knows how many new slave cylinders etc!!
hope you find the proplem though wolfie!

cheers
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

want some help with it neil ?

Edited by robert on 27th Nov, 2006.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Yes what Tom said above (don't know how to quote), the push rod into the slave wore on mine meaning I couldn't engage gears when the clutch was set "correct" and would slip at anything other than that. I small nut was used to pack it out and works a treat now!

Neil,

would be happy to pop over after work one night. Only about 30 mins away.

PM me with post code and what times your about

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

right

bleed slave though again and adjusted correctly .... no joy

removed pin to shove a nut in end to pack out a tad and found a fair amount of fluid behind rubber, did it anyway and works well and seems to hold at 14psi so far

if i pump pedal once before engaging it now works perfect

will change the slave cylinder for a new one (genuine) as mine is non genuine and allthough has done next to no work its 3 years old and is clearly not well

will let you know after ive done that

a lot of people have known problems with the non genuine slaves due to the excessive heat. might be a good idea to shield it from the turbo. I know some are known to heat wrap the slave.

I've never had a car in one piece long enough for it to be an issue though!!

i had the same thing, new flywheel, clutch, arm, slave cylinder etc and still trouble

turned out the clutch just needed beding in

cool cheers

will replace the slave cylinder anyway as its clearly leaking then see how i go from there

Certainly would be better, just saying I've seen some strange things done to make clutches work!

It should all work ok so why do people bodge it?? Oh Well.

Like the idea of extending the pushrod from the slave though, if you got some form or adjustment in there then you could set it so that the slave piston was at the optimum position when new.

Still wouldn't help when you run out of adjustment at the throwout stop end though which I have seen, once with all new cheapy patern bits in the clutch assembly ......

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...