Metro Ecu and bleed solenoid.
Turbo Mini Forums

Just used the search engine but to no avail, so sorry if covering old ground.
As I undestand, the standard t3 set up on the metro has a 4psi actuator, and when the ecu sees the rpm hit (cant remember off hand what exactly, so for the benifit of this thread I'll 2500rpm) 2500 rpm, activates the bleed solenoid to bleed boost off achieving 7psi.
I am planning to use a T2 off an R5, can I set the actuator to say 6psi, and use the metro ecu and solenoid to bleed off and achieve 9 psi boost, is the metro solenoid set to bleed 3 psi, or does this vary?
If the solenoid does reliably bleed 3 psi, what are the implications of running it just off a switch on the dash, eg high boost, low boost?
Any thoughts are appreciated,
Many thanks
Shane.

I use an adjustable boost valve. This way you can bleed off so you can achieve whatver PSI you want(within Reason).

i have fitted a manual boost controller (MBC) to do a similar job.

wouldnt bother with the ecu.

Edited by MarkGTT on 5th Dec, 2006.

Can appreciate why you use an MBC, but due to having bad experiences in the past with an in car MBC in a mates R5 (winding it out untill the knurled section comes off in your hand!!) and knowing what my urgew to fiddle is like I want to sway away from this, (same goes for mounting under the bonnet)
would just rather have it set, self adjusting or at the flick of a switch. Hence why I am curious to find out how much the metro solenoid bleeds off,and how accurately?
Thanks
Shane.

IIRC the metro ecu pulsed the valve to give the required boost.

You can get what you want quite simply though. All you need to do is fit an orifice to the outlet of the valve that gives you the "bleed" your after. Wire the sol' up to a switch and when you turn it on it will bleed to your required boost, switch off and your back to actuator controlled boost.

I once put a switch into the gear selector housing (an old reversing light switch) so that even if switched on the 'bleed' was not available in 1st in an attempt to limit damage to the diff. That was in the days before X-pin diffs, cheap ECUs etc. Would not bother now, let the ECU do it for me if it could manage it.

Looking at Megajolt as keeping the carb on the 5port and there is some basic knock sensing code available (so I am lead to belive!!).

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

P.S. you could always put the MB under bonnet so you couldn't reach it and plumb it in behind the sol' valve so that you could switch it but not fiddle ......

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

My bleed valve, taking you know how to connect them, the middle pipe (that goes to open air) connect that to the solenoid and activate the solenoid via a switch inside. If im right with the solenoid off it will boost at std actuator psi- 4. With the solenoid on it will boost to what ever the bleed valve is set to! That is assuming that the actuator has been up-rated, along with the fueling to sort!

it may b small but it purfectly formed
http://photobucket.com/albums/v340/1976_mi...roject%20turbo/

Thats a good idea 1976_mini , as long as the metro solenoid doesn't resrict the boost when open, eg; say the mbc set to bleed a further 4 psi and the solenoid only allowing 3 psi bled.
Was really hoping someone would just say "yes it bleeds 3 psi!" LOL!
I didnt realise the metro ecu pulsed the solenoid, I just assumed it was either open or closed.
So, theretically speaking, if i was using the complete standard set up, as it was in the metro, and the standard 4 psi actuator was replaced with a 6psi one, what would happen??
Would the Ecu still regulate the boost to 7 psi?
Sorry if this is like pulling teeth, just trying to fully undestand how the standard metro system worked.
Thanks
Shane.

are you sure thats how you plumb in a bleed valve?

I havent ever fitted one, but have one the same design as yours and i *think* i remember the instructions saying that it should be plumbed inline with the 2 'side unions' (for want of a better description) going form the actuator to the compressor housing, and the 'end union' was vented to atmosphere...?

Basically im saying (possibly wrongly) that i think you have the compressor and atmosphere pipes mixed up...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

last q was directed at 1976_mini btw

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Think your right Joey..

just been sat mulling over what you chaps have said. as the solenoid is open untill powered up, (well the one I have sat infront of me is open unless its duff!!) could i have it wired off a switch on my dash and use this (ebay) Item number: 260059786540, to close it at whatever max boost i wish to run? eg, set the actuator to 6psi, use the solenoid to bleed at the flick of a switch, and the boost switch to shut it at 9Psi? How does that sound? also is the solenoid ok to stay energised (in the shut position) for long periods of time (as it would be to run the above mentioned set up, on "low boost" without killing it?
any thoughts?
Shane.

I really don't like the type of bleed valve suggested here, they tend to give a very soft edge boost curve. This is because to a certain extent they are always bleeding a little so the rise to normal actuator controlled level is slightly slower and thus feels less agressive if you get my drift.

I prefer the 'no return valve type', basically a sprung insert / seat valve. With these you get much stronger curve as they are truely closed until they are overcome by the boost and then bleed through a fixed orifice from that point onwards.

This means that the rise to the actuator controlled level is as normal then the valve is overcome and the boost rises further to the desired level.

Although the difference is small in the charge to full power but it feels, at least to me, that the engine is a little more responsive in 'normal' driving.

Still no substitute for actuator controlled boost.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

his description reads right, but the labels on the diagram dont

the one inline with the axis of the screw is the "open air" or soleniod if you so chose one.

It's difficult to find a solenoid that bleeds a lot of air off though.

Something i still need to find, apparently the VW/Audi ones are good.

Oh yes, VW ones work well.

Get the valves used in the 1.8T (20v) upgrades and you can easily bleed off 20 psi. Need ECU control though ..... MegaSquirt?

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Have emerald

it was the diagram that was throwing me

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hey joey, yea ian got it right the labells are wrong, it was a small pic when i up loaded it so i couldnt see the writing. It was an old pic i hosted a while ago when i was asking about plumbing it in! sorry for the confusion tho!

Shane iirc people have been running this type (with a few varients) for years with no problem. Most people only run low boost permenantly, with the occasional high boost for the odd chavv bashing. Or maybe for the odd country lane fun in some peoples cases. So i really cant see why it shouldnt work.

it may b small but it purfectly formed
http://photobucket.com/albums/v340/1976_mi...roject%20turbo/

The next question is should it plumb in to the actutor, was thinking of attaching it to the carb, which is where I found the solenoid, (fitted to the one i have sat in my shed) but after lookin in the haynes joke book last nite, and now not sure that the item sat infront of me is the solenoid, will try and post a pic this eve.
Shane..

The thing attached to the carb is an anti run on valve not a bleed valve.
The bleed valve has 2 spade connectors on it,the anti run on valve has a moulded plastic plug on a short lead

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

This is what i have, if its the anti run on vavle does it stay shut (energised) when car is running, and opens to lean out, stall when ignition off? had a look on a mates metro this afternoon, he has a valve of sorts on the breather circuit, is this not the anti run on?
Shane.

I was running an Apexi AVC-R boost controller on mine (not any more, had to sell it to buy parts....) It was the absolute tits.... better than any bleed valve or solenoid i have ever used before.