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Home > How To > Tips on Welding!!!

Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

Yeah definately disconnect the alternator, also if you ever weld on anything modern you need to disconnect engine ECU's, ABS ECU's Airbag ECU's etc etc etc


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


LeeDJC

5 Posts
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Junior Member

Some interesting reading here, especially for someone who has never even touched a welder. I'm gonna have to learn soon tho cos my little project needs a bit of welding.

I need a bit of advice tho. What sort of welder should I get? I'm guessing that a good all round welder would be best. Please don't forget that I am a TOTAL newbie at this and as of yet, haven't got a clue lol.

Thanx *wink*


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

For car bodywork you want a MIG welder.

Check out somewhere like Machine Mart for a selection.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


LeeDJC

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What sort of power rating would be best? I don't wanna go overboard, but also don't want one that is underpowered for general use.

Sorry about all the questions!


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Buy the best you can afford. Cebora are a good make as they supply welders to Snap-on. But most MIG welders will be more than up to the job of car repairs.
Welding car bodywork will not require large power.

I would recommend something around the 130-150 level. If possible get one with a built in fan as they don't cut out on thermal overload when using them hard.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


LeeDJC

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Junior Member

Thanks for the help :)

I'll prob have to wait until new year now......damn christmas! lol


Andymini

208 Posts
Member #: 438
Senior Member

London

For advice on Sheet metalwork and welding, I really recommend the forums at the following website-

http://www.metalmeet.com


I use a a SIP Autoplus 130 MIG. I use BOC Argoshiled N0 5 shield gas- couldn't get on with C02 at all. The Argoshiled works really well.

I never weld sheet metal in burts of less than an inch, and move the welder around to keep heat to a minimum. Also helps if you have a compressor, to blow some air onto the weld- this cools it quicker.

Cheers

Andy

Edited by Andymini on 3rd Jan, 2005.


Jase

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Lutterworth

just a little question, when fitting repair panels i.e new flitch or arch panel would you cut the old one to butt up or overlap.

Cheers (good to see people sharing there experiences)


Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

I agree, tack it with spots about an inch apart, keeping them as far apart as possible, Ie 12 o clock, 6, 9, 3, etc and then fill in the gaps.

Get a light reactive visor, cheap at twice the price. Use argon.

An old arc welder is an excellent way of unseizing nuts, you touch it with the stick and it goes "Nuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrr" and the nut goes orange and then you just undo it.

Stay away from stick welders AT ALL COSTS. (I taught myself on one).

By the way, you probably won't see fire through a light reactive visor, so you can have quite a nasty blaze by the time you realise/smell it.

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


clubman_dan

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Winchester

i know what you mean about the fires, you cant see f**k all through the visor apart from the spark from the weld, then when you take of the visor your confronted with the fire


Andymini

208 Posts
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London

On 07/01/2005 21:54:03 Jase said:

just a little question, when fitting repair panels i.e new flitch or arch panel would you cut the old one to butt up or overlap.

Cheers (good to see people sharing there experiences)


I butt weld for panels that show. It's time consuming- lot's of angle grinding and more diffcult than lapping the panel.

Lapping is fine, easier to weld and stronger, but you need to consider the cosmetics if it shows, also get your metal clean of any rust before welding, else it'll rust inbetween.

Another tip I've found useful, take a bit of copper pipe and flatten one end, use this on the other side of the metal to fill up holes etc.

Edited by Andymini on 20th Jan, 2005.


Doodmeister

485 Posts
Member #: 149
Senior Member

Alberta, Canada

Edge Setter/Joggler with Hole Punch
These are great for seamless over lapping.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.


priceofreality85

4 Posts
Member #: 604
Junior Member

this subject came up very recently on 'finity...

this seemed like a useful site

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk


Nic

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9311 Posts
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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

top tips and links

i must start brushing up on my welding skills, not that there was much there to start with in the first place


Guessworks

60 Posts
Member #: 651
Advanced Member

Rugby, UK

To Answer Jase... "just a little question, when fitting repair panels i.e new flitch or arch panel would you cut the old one to butt up or overlap."

The best thing to do is overlap, and if you have an edge setter, you can offset the edge of the panel so that the overlap does not offset the panel by the width of the metal, also its a very neat finish if your doing a mid panel repair like rear quarters.

PS, when I find it, i've got one in the garage !

JG

Edited by Guessworks on 16th Aug, 2005.


joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

have to agree on the light reactive visors, got one the other day and my welds are now twice as good.

theyre dirt cheap on ebay at the minute too.

can recommend the sip t2000

also, make sure your gas shrouds are in good nick, i put a new one on today and it made the word of difference, even though the old one doesnt look too bad....??

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

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Dangerous

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Swindon

What visor shade are we using,I got a 12 today(stevie wonder) then found my old one was a 8 ! thinking about a 6 for the thinnish low power stuff


Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!



Richie

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a LIL fishing village on the coast - Newcastle Upon Tyne

lol so i take it u all use migs n tigs no gas welders here ? i have an oxy set, and would appreciate tips on brasing and welding bodywork, getting right temps how not to burn holes in everything............only thing i can advise for gas is make sure your set has flashback arresters on both oxy and fuel lines and all ya pipes are jubilee cliped , also spend money on good regs and a decent torch all up the safety of the device you use, and enable the welder to be more versatile (advice from BOC)

my advice with migs is take time to prep the area you are welding, and make sure afterwards that all flux agent is scraped off or ya weld gets eaten away.



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Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
OK here's my tip.... Spray a little anti-spatter spray into the nozzle of your MIG at regular intervals. This stops all the crap getting stuck in there. *wink*
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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turboestate

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durham area

only problem i found with oxy is pannel distortion, can get it to weld no problem and nice, brazing isnt quet an art just go gentle with the heat i use a number 2 nozzle on my light waight gun

love that straight cut scream!!!
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Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
To overcome panel distortion, which you can get with any type of welding, use Frosts Cold Front. It looks like some horrible slimey kind of putty, but works a treat!
Cheers,
Gavin. :)

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paul wiginton
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On 06/05/2004 08:23:18 Jimster said:

anyone got tips on welding stainless with a tig?


Keep the tungsten very sharp. Use a red tungsten. Dont have gas flow too high as it will blow your arc and create an unstable weld pool.
Paul

I seriously doubt it!


paul wiginton
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On 04/05/2004 22:24:00 iain said:

Something we all need! I know i do, any hints and tips would be appreciated plus also what might be an idea is approx settings and what type of mig you use to give people a guide, i know all mig's are different but it may help a bit.

I use low number 2 on a clarke 130 turbo and wire speed 4

Not saying its right as i cant weld brillaint but that seems to be giving good results at the minute, ive got plenty more car to practice on!!!!!

Any more tips?

Obviously shiney metal is the key!!

Nobody got any? However small, anything is helpful *smiley*

The best thing you can do is get rid of disposable gas bottles. Contact your local BOC dealer and open an account. Get a 1/4 size bottle of Argoshield TC and buy a half descent regulator. This is all fairly cheap in comparison to buying loads of disposables. Instantly your welding will be 200% better. Also make sure you have a hands free welding mask witha 10 EW filter (this is the screen) Use your other hand to steady your hand thats holding the torch. Settings are not what make a good or a bad weld line, it is definately your accessories. Do start with your heat on the lowest setting and the wire feed about half of maximum and experiment from there.
Paul

I seriously doubt it!


iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

Kind of thing we need, cheers paul *smiley* experience speaks volume


ben doodar

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stoke on trent

yeah and dont be a clever cunt like me. i was doing quite a bit of welding on my car, tacking the panel on with my eyes closed b4 i used the mask to weld it properly. i woke up the next morning with a sun burnt face and my eyes sticking together. not very nice

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