11 stud head bolts
Turbo Mini Forums

Does anybody know of a budget 11 stud head bolt set, just paid out for 9 stud kit but had some work done and gone to 11stud is is possible just to buy two more head bolts? i know im been tight but moneys short with the run up to christmas!!

Ron

It is not a big problem to run an 11 stud head with the end two studs missing. I have done this before.

just put two standard studs in there ,

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dont over tighten the one above the water pump

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Yep you can (or used to about 5 yars ago) buy the extra 2 they are different sizes to the normal ones

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

The ARP 11 stud kit comes with all studs 3/8". It is only the early CooperS engines that used the smaller 1/4" stud at the end, in fact it actually used a bolt. This can be re-used as a 1/4" size if desired for a concours resto but for a performance engine 3/8" is just as good.

oh! like to add drill the thermostat side no more than 12.5 mm & tap
saves breaking in to the water pump gallery in the block

number 4 side the same depth as the others, i think 15 mm but please check

and then tap

torque up the two end ones 30 foot pounds no more

some peeps torque up number 4 side the same as the rest but i dont

each to there own

Tom, wasn't that bolt 5/16" :)
If the block has got 11 holes and the head 11, do check if the bolt hole goes down to the water pump. If it does and you don't run a bolt/stud there, you'll get wet!

The two end ones are 25lbs/ft

i got the ARP 11 stud kit and put the 2 you dont need in the bin.

11 stud was over engineering in the 60's and a waste of time, effort and money since a well put together engine doesn't need more than 9 studs.

ive had a turbo mini for over 10 years and load of other minis and never had the head gasket go where the extra studs may have helped.

When tapping the holes use, if you can, a near flat bottomed tap. That will avoid an unexpected peircing incident.

I can't remember if the torque sequence changes, I don't think it does, just do as normal then bring the end ones up IIRC. Somebody else will most likely give you a more definative answer.

Have to agree that 11 stud is not really necessary.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Cheers well i will just use two standard head bolts then as the holes aree the same size as standard! I have had the work carried out allready so dont need to worry about breaking into water gallerys. I have had no problems with head gaskets either just thought i may as well get it done as a belt and braces idea, but them 30ibs/ft is only a good nip!! cheers for the help

i would be inclined to agree that 9 studs are ample but................ the extra two gives a shade more clamping load at either end

some peeps on here have had problems on number 4 side blowing gaskets on 18 psi of Boost

any way have a look at this website and punch in what boost your going to run

this will tell you your true compression ratio under boost

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm

thats why the two extra studs help, in my opinion


also in my opinion that the original head studs are more than up to the job and to shell out a had full of money for ARP ones is a waste ....... but if you have athe brass!!

now ARP rod bolts are a must to replace the standard fatigued one

as the recipricating load thay have seen over the years puts them in the twighlight Zone

OK, bit of a thread revival but its relevant to my question/problem:
The block (from Morspeed) I am about to build has been drilled up for 11 studs but the water pump one has broken through. Will this cause me a major problem and is there anything I should do before I assemble?

Damn, you, I'm the Chief ancient post excavator on this site!

You may use a little sealer between the stud and block (not bolt) and this wil seal. They always break through!

Yep, I've never seen one tapped there and not drilled right thru TBH. Its not a problem if you use some sealer.

By sealer do you mean a loctite tye product on the thread or a small amount of sikaflex/wellseal etc in the bottom of the hole (sounds iffy although shouldn't do much damage if it gets in the water system)?

Loctite sealer on the thread will be best, some kind of pipefitters thread sealer, however I used some wellseal on it as I didn't have anything else to hand at the time, and this has done the job fine.

liquid ptfe works well. there are loads of fairly decent pipe thread sealants about