Clutch problems
Turbo Mini Forums

Im having trouble with my clutch on my mini. Ive just put the turbo engine in straight from the metro turbo. I did just as ive done the last two times, i put my small mini clutch arm and bracket on, and usually it has worked.

This time though, the clutch just isnt clearing at all. Ive wound the two nuts on the end of the wok right in, and now can just about get into each gear but with difficulty.

All my clutch hydraulics are not that old and were in perfect condition, ive taken the clutch slave apart and it definately had no air in it or anything after bleeding it.

What would you recommend doing? Do i need to get hold of a long clutch arm? Or do i need to change the clutch? there was no problems getting any gear when it was in the metro.




Other than that, its all running really well and smooth! no nasty knocking or burning and its the neatest looking engine bay ive ever put in!!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

If it worked in the Metro then I can see no reason for it not to work in the Mini.

Why did you change the arm and slave braket from the Metro ones? Normally leave them in place if I'm going to use the verto clutch.....

Try putting them back on and see, unless it was a cable type of course.... can't remember what year that changed on the Metro.

The only thing I can think of is that your master cylinder isn't moving enough fluid..... but if it worked on the last engine why not this one.

Sorry if it's teaching granny to suck eggs but is the plunger socket / arm ball in good nick and not worn? Throwout stops addjusted reasonably at the normal position? Clevis / pedal joint ok and not worn?

There is a little bit of adjustment possible to the pedal box pushrod which can give you a bit more pedal travel to work with (my Passat gets upset if the mat ends up under the clutch ...)

Don't normal see problems with the verto clutch, other than it slipping.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Ive wound the two nuts on the end of the wok right in, and now can just about get into each gear but with difficulty.



You want to undo them,the shaft goes into the wok when you push the pedal down

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

You need the long arm if you have a preverto setup

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

thankyou for your replies! yeah about the mat thing, ive removed the carpet so pedal goes right down the the metal.

Clutch master cylinder is not that old was working fine.

Dangerous, do you mean i might have wound the wok nuts the wrong way? I wound them inwards fully, had to do that to get the clutch to work at all. should i try winding it the other way?

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Ill put a wanted thread up for a long clutch arm.

In the past though twice ive just bolted my bracket and clutch slave straight to 2 standard metro turbo engines and its worked absolutely fine with no adjusting, just a bit of a stiff pedal but i like it like that

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Dangerous, do you mean i might have wound the wok nuts the wrong way? I wound them inwards fully, had to do that to get the clutch to work at all. should i try winding it the other way?

wind them out till they are nearly hanging off the end,If you have them wound in all you arte doing is pushing the nut against the wok,thats why your clutch dont work

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

If I recall correctly there are 3 clevis pins in the clutch assembly (one at each end of the arm & one connecting the pedal to the slave cylinder) do not under estimate how much these pins can wear and how much slack they induce when they wear.

Failing that one trick / bodge I've found is to weld about a 1/4" of bolt onto the push rod.

Verto clutch should have a 6.5mm gap between the wok and the big flanged nut. This is with slight pressure on the arm pulling it away from the engine.

If its verto, has the short verto 'hydrolic' arm, a verto slave cylinder, and the clearance is 6.5mm. There should be no problem.

Issues with verto include, collapsed thrust sleave, colapsed release bearing, worn realease arm and plunger, worn clevis pins and hydrolic failures.

Other things to consider. Seized primary gear, usualy as a result of incorrect primary gear end float or over heating clutch due to slip, as a result of oil contaminated friction plate as a result of improper endfloat or seal fitment. But not limited to.

i agree with dangerous