Nicks Clubby
Turbo Mini Forums

Lol!

Ive been giving this some thought as I’ve been pottering around the house this morning.
As you now run your car very low compared to the previous ride height the arcs which the steering arms act on under suspension movement will have changed therefore their input on toe in / out may be more extreme then what they were previously this might have detriment to the handling?

Shane.

try some stock inset wheels just see if it gets better?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

A car I drove the other year was the same (same setup as yours give or take). And it was set up right, as I did it:).

In the end it was the ball joints being too tight, I's suspected that at the start, but ended up last on the list.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

If you have moved the top arms pivot you WILL have bump steer,

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Maybe you should look into custom hubs. Change the ball joint geometry to suit your new wheels and adjust steering arms to help with and bump steer?

Maybe you should look into custom hubs. Change the ball joint geometry to suit your new wheels and adjust steering arms to help with and bump steer?

re bump steer , i quite like the idea of strapping a cheap laser pointer to the wheel , pointing it at a vertical line on the wall ,and just jack the car up ,and see how much the red dot moves from side to side ,you could even take the shock off and do the whole hub movement ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

^^^ this,

although, you'll probably want to measure at 2 distances, as you'll get some change in track through the suspension travel,

takes a bit of time to make but useful tool from alan staniforths books

Attachments:

242.3kb

I've pretty much negated the bump steer on mine by moving the steering arm much lower. Unfortunatly its only a mock up, and the bottom bracket seen here is only tig'd on with silicone bronze, which i wouldn't trust on the road. I dont really have a practical solution

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9xsEMHtI...LUlDZ3Q1cXFVSkk

The only real solution as far as I can see are carls hubs with parallel arms, which would let you put the rod end wherever you liked.

Mondo sport sell those extensions, but i dont think they go low enough.

I'm surprised really, that after all this time KAD havn't provided a solution within their alloy hubs

Edited by JetBLICK on 7th Mar, 2018.

I have rose joint ends on my steering rack and quite large spacers to in essence lower the arms.

Don’t feel like it suffers bump steer and torque steer is not much of a problem.

I can’t think of where they came from! Have drilled the arms out to remove the taper.

EDIT: ta da http://www.compbrake.com/product/rover-mg-...-rod-ends-pair/

Edited by jonny f on 7th Mar, 2018.

If you had the KAD Alloy hubs, you could make your drop bracket off the spare set of Calliper Mounting locations. Just an idea

David.

I would recommend them.

They’re not a bad price either.

Seems I’ve missed a lot! Here’s some extra info..

I’m already running the mondo rose jointed track rods, with a big spacer to drop the steering arm.
I’ve tested the car on the same road, if I accelerate gently then it’s fine and just goes straight. If I give it a bootfull then it feels almost as if the front end goes light and it snakes around like fuck.

I know I’ve got one top ball joint that needs a shim taking out as there was play at the mot so I’ll check the others while I’m under there as a startoff.

What caster are you running?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Offside rear toe needs a couple of shims but I couldn’t do it at the alignment place as the radius arm needs to come off thanks to the shite rear beam.

Where did you go for the alignment? Was it on modern gear? Everything around here is 13” plus.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

in case it helps nick , i run 1.5 neg camber front ,.5 neg camber rear .2mm toe IN front 1.5mm toe IN rear .5 d caster front .not sure that caster helped , and always intended trying it back at 3d. then play with tyre pressures.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

pictures don't seem to load

Been a while since I updated this...




Had a couple of trips to Pod this season and best I've got so far is a 13.4 @ 109mph (in 3rd gear!) with a terrible 2.4 60ft.

Took a trip to the dyno too where we discovered that it stops reading at 125mph so I still don't have an actual banana figure, just that it's making 230 on 20psi at 7000rpm with another 1300rpm on top unmeasured.

Car seems to have gone a little spastic on the old social media things too, I keep seeing the fucking thing everywhere. Which is nice I guess, i'm just not used to it as most of you guys will know how much of a shitter my cars have been over the years

Also somehow joined the ranks of JonnyF and got featured on Speedhunters which is pretty much the coolest place I could imagine to be part of!

http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/11/its-th...e-classic-mini/

This is one of my favorite TM builds of the last ten years.
Shane.

Credit to you Nick, it's a great car. Loads of nice piccies of it to decorate your house/garage with to !

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM