it's rusting
Turbo Mini Forums

about 3 months ago I took the headlights out, cleaned up the small amount of surface rust around that area, I then gave the rear of the seams a good clean and a heavy coating of hammerite to stop them rusting. I then used an aerosol primer to prime the area and had a local garage blend the paint in again.

however the rust has started forming again along the seams, how do i stop this happening, its been parked in a garage and seen little use.

my only thought is that it is the crappy primer that is the cause of this, as it has happened on other less conspicuous areas i have tried to stop rusting.

the only way to get rid of rust is cut it out full stop

"Can I legally marry people now that I am ordained in the Church of the SubGenius?" aka i know jack sh"t

i also make things

i love coming home to chrome

when i had finished with the wire brush there was no trace of rust.

Try loctite rust remedy on the bare metal,it seals it and drys rock hard stops rust forming and coming back through

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

i've found on the seams on the front of your car if you clean any underseal off the seams where its welded, key it up for primer & use hammerite number one rust beater primer (its pink) then paint over that with household gloss paint (its oil based) this has worked really well for me before, oviously you can underseal over the top of the paint too for extra protection, the loctite rust remedy b4 doing what i've recommended is good to do aswell, hope you sort it bud

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

Youll never get paint between the seam when theres rust there. Once its started to rust, it wont stop.

Only real option is to cut it out, replace with fresh and then seal and paint the buggery out of it. Front and back.

With this i presume you are talking about the small vertical seam directly under the head light.

thanks for the replies, everything i do on the car at the moment seems to be trying to stop or slow rust. i'm going to give it a propor sort out in the summer with new sills and a couple of other repairs and really don't want to replace an otherwise totally sound front end because the seams are rusting.

yes it is that short vertical seam thats rusting

TBH thats what i did, the front end was sound, no holes, just surface. However, i have been where you are, doing what you have done. In the end, it will piss you off to the point that you'll replace the whole front, use one full tube of urethane sealer as well as half a tin of brushable seam sealer, then etch primer, two tins of stone chip then three layers of paint. And thats just on the inner wings.

Just be prepaired to be doing it again.

i'm with u on your thorts there mini sprocket, on the score of once rust is in a seam it keeps coming no matter what u do & does piss all us mini owners off,

cleaning back to bare metal on the 'front & rear' of the seam & priming sealing & painting from there is the most long term repair before panal replacement, be as meticulas as possible with your prep to bare metal too & heat the seam with a heat gun to expel any moisture from it, use a small wire brush in a drill to get as far as possible into the seam, rust remady its & prime 'n' paint from there, you'll have to do the panel at some point though, tiger seal is good if you applie it with a finger to seams then you paint over it,

the joy of minis!!! i would'nt be without one again!!!

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

WAXOIL

heated up and applied with spray

stops it in its tracks

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

hi, you will never get the rust out. you can wire brush and put different things on it but the rust will still be in there somewhere. if you take your time, get it as clean as possible, fill where the rst has been removed to get the contours back, it will last a fair while. like i said the rust will always be in there somewhere.

try spraying the area yourself, mask along the edge of the wing up to the headlamp. take your time spraying, in small amounts so as not to get runs. half of my car was sprayed in halfords spray cans and the finish was excelent. you can rub the masking lines in, as long as you take your time cutting the paint back and are prepared to pollish it up it comes up well
my car looked great, paintwork was a1. under the headlamps lasted around 2 years each time.

with all respect, the people at the spray shop are only human, they dont have special powers, all they do is remove the rust in pretty much the same way and put paint on. as long as there are no runs and there is plenty of paint it will cut back to factory finish if you work at it

stevieturbo

have you seen my motor, ??

its mint and i did it in 1998

no rust anywhere!

mind you it hasent seen "any rain".....lol

Edited by BENROSS on 10th Jan, 2007.

http://www.rust.co.uk

Everything you should need to beat rust...
Waxoyl suck IMO try Dinitrol. and the Epoxy Mastic is amazing stuff.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.

my shell was dintroil'd at some point in its life, an 80's clubby and still in the origional sill's sits outside too :)

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

The way this thread is going I may well be attempting my first restoration in the summer. lets see how much of my student loan i have left by then! I think that is the way forward, it is clearly a false economy trying to tidy the rust on a car, which I intend to hang on to, so i may as well get on and remove all traces of rust.

like the other peeps say, cut as much of the rust out as you can, then i used acid etch primer, hammerited it then paint, i had no other problems.

'always keep a spare shot for a stray bird'

Dintroil is my preference to Waxoil too.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

I got so hacked off with patching up rust on mine that I ended up going down the herritage shell route, (thanks to my x misus and I splitting after a few years of saving for a house!) But for my daily drive which Im now building I have a fibreglass shell!
I've used waxoil and tried wire brushing and repainting it in the past, but you only ever end up redoing it, to stop it, cut it out!!
Shane

you will never get a rust free shell, even if you sort the front end it will rust on the doors, rear quarters under the rear side windows, etc, it will cost you a lot of money to put this right. even a new shell will start to rust somewhere after about a year. have had my car for 4 years, did some minor rust repairs about a year after i got it, and there is no sign of rust or repair in these areas. the key is to get the rust when it is small. leave it til it gets too big and you will need a lot of new panels, possibly a new shell. its a case of keeping on top of it. im a student too, i just have a go, it comes good with patience.
started on the rust at xmas, got it out there even though it wasnt too bad as am aiming to respray the whole car this summer. was a bit too cold for the paint at the moment, as you can see from the slight hairline reaction. think it was from cold/moisture in the air

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If the rusty seams annoy you, learn how to do lead loading - and sort them from the front and the rear. All you need to so is work it such that you can flow lead right into the seams. You can 'smooth' the seam shape into the lead afterwards.

That is about as good a prevention as you'll find.

Also VERY usefull for the seam join between scuttle and wing.... No flex cracks at all!

Actually, that's my question- flex cracks. I always seem to get them at the usual wing/scuttle join and the wing front panel not matter what it's sealed with and no matter how well sealed it is at the back it rusts. Is there any way of completely seem wleding the panels so there is no actual join? Lead loading sounds good too, I have only seen that used for flushing out realy rough panels but flowing it into joins is rather clever.

I think it covers it in the mini haynes restoration manual. well a basic guide to it anyway.