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Home > Technical Chat > ARP. i am impressed.

fastcarl

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6965 Posts
Member #: 507
Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

seing as gen rover big end bolts are now quite expensive and the ARP work out cheaper i aquired some,
ive just put them into some rods and they are so much easier to get the cap off and on due to the reduced dia in the cap , they still have a small section to locate the cap though, but i am very impressed. !!!.. they can stick there rover part up there arse from now on,lol.

carl , an impressed person,

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Doodmeister

485 Posts
Member #: 149
Senior Member

Alberta, Canada

A converted man i see....

I've been using ARP since 1990 on BB & SB Chevy race engines and there is no alternative if you can afford them.
Lucky i can thats why their in my mini motors on the Mains, Rods and Head.

A Great Fit and Forget Solution.

Edited by Doodmeister on 28th Jan, 2007.

Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe.


stevieturbo

3594 Posts
Member #: 655
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Northern Ireland

Here's a question for yas.

ARP Main studs ( or equivalent brand. )

Ive had a set sitting in my toolbox for many many years. I bought them for my mini, and whilst they certainly held the main caps on.....

When fitted, the flywheel end fouled the gearbox, and the gearbox wouldnt bolt up.

Whats the solution to that one ? I ended up just re-using the standard main bolts.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


fastcarl

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6965 Posts
Member #: 507
Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

i supose you could have cut any excess exposed threaded section off, iv'e heard of this before ,the fouling that is!

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


T3Tone

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Sunny suffolk

Just out of interest Carl, what sort of revs did you used to subject standard rover rod bolts/nuts to as i believe these are what i have?

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-


stevieturbo

3594 Posts
Member #: 655
Post Whore

Northern Ireland




On 28th of Jan, 2007 at 09:28pm fastcarl said:
i supose you could have cut any excess exposed threaded section off, iv'e heard of this before ,the fouling that is!

carl


The depth of the nuts themselves would still have been too much. And from what I recall, I couldnt have removed any material from the box either....

As for std rod bolts.... I did rev mine breifly to 8000+ several times when I made a poor cam selection.
With a sensible turbo use cam, I regularly seen 7000+ and never experienced problems.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Jimster
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9407 Posts
Member #: 58
455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

I think carl has just proven to us, if he has been using std rod bolts in his engine then this statement may be true:
"it's not the quality of the kit we are using that is the problem, it is the way some people throw there engines together which cause failures!" Carls well built engine with std rod bolts, I think often saw 8500+rpm

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


paul wiginton
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5933 Posts
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes




When fitted, the flywheel end fouled the gearbox, and the gearbox wouldnt bolt up.


Gavin Wakely came across this problem about 8+ years ago. He built up the gearbox casing with weld then relieved the inside to clear the ARPs.
Paul

I seriously doubt it!


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 29th of Jan, 2007 at 10:26am paul wiginton said:



When fitted, the flywheel end fouled the gearbox, and the gearbox wouldnt bolt up.


Gavin Wakely came across this problem about 8+ years ago. He built up the gearbox casing with weld then relieved the inside to clear the ARPs.
Paul


Much simpler than removing a few mm of the bolts for sure *wink*

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



miniminor63

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The oversills police

Oslo, Norway




On 29th of Jan, 2007 at 01:10am stevieturbo said:



On 28th of Jan, 2007 at 09:28pm fastcarl said:
i supose you could have cut any excess exposed threaded section off, iv'e heard of this before ,the fouling that is!

carl


The depth of the nuts themselves would still have been too much. And from what I recall, I couldnt have removed any material from the box either....



read the post before answering Veg *tongue*


fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

the ARP mains stud setup is something iv'e not dealt with, so i can assume these use high head nuts ,
i only ever use the standard bolts on the two outewr caps and some Finnings Cat high strength bolts for the centre strap. i have never had any visible micro fretting on any of the caps, so i'm happy with this setup.
thw most revs ive even shown on my engines is 9500, on the rear engine as thats all the tacho goes up to , usually happens when i'm tyre warming in the water box.

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


T3Tone

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Sunny suffolk

Really is amazing how good the standard rod bolts are!!! Think i will be moving to ARP on the next strip down though, a cheaper and even better product.

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-


stevieturbo

3594 Posts
Member #: 655
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Northern Ireland

I'll measure the nuts later. They are the typical taller nut as used with ARP style fasteners.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


paul wiginton
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5933 Posts
Member #: 784
9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Ive always used ARP. I wouldnt dare use anything else.
Paul

I seriously doubt it!

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