celly paint advise :-( maybe one for mr benross??
Turbo Mini Forums

sorry about the long winded post
right ive painted the inside of my car with celly paint now im using the inside as practise for the outside and if i cant do it ill have to get somebody to do it. now my garage has got no ventilation and non is possible due to living in a terrace house with the garage on the front. anyhow so ive given it about 3 coats 50/50 mix obviously its only the inside and most of it will be covered so finish not got to be perfect. the problem is that some parts are shiney but most of it is matt and very rough to feel. i think this is due to overspray settling. so my question is- is this fixable i.e will it polish/buff out. whats the best way to do this. obviosly i wanna get a decent finish inside before i paint the outside.

cheers in advance

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

I know some one In Ellesmere Port that can do celly, I can ask, if you need help. I dont think he will charge much if hes willing to help, if you want help

As for the rough feel, yes i suspect overspray. It may also be a case of you not merging the spray line, its a 50% overlap to keep a wet line. The edge of the spray pattern you will notice is 'dry' this overlapping keeps the rough texture to a minimum. It could also be the setting of the spray pattern and feed rate. Its more prominent with a fiddy fiddy mix though, the thinner the mix the better the paint settles and the better the shine but then its easier to get runs. It realy is a practice thing.

I picked this up when me and my mate did mine. I was his paint bitch, lol

Edited by Sprocket on 10th Mar, 2007.

you may get better results if you flat what youv'e done back with 1000 wet and dry and giving one final coat a bit thinner mix and getting a complete wet coat, cpmplete wet coats are the key to success, it saves flatting back time, ultimatly if you apply numerous coats , and built up the layers, you can flat it all back with superfine 1500 untill you see a complete dul;l surface ,ie; no tiny pipos or traces of orange peel then its time to cut back with a good compound then a final polish,
basically the trick [as i see it is with celulose] is plenty coats then hard graft flatting and cutting,

all of this advice is based on the fact that you cannot spray to a finish. but you vcan still get a good one given ball aching time,

carl

Edited by fastcarl on 10th Mar, 2007.

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took both our advise been in the garage this morning and rubbed it down and recoated with 75/25 thinner/paint so as soon as it dries ill keep you informed as long as the bits you can see when its all back together are smooth then ill be happy.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

The absolute key here is to keep a "wet edge" at all times, this helps the finish immensely.

And then with celly increase the thinners content for the last coat, then break out the flatting compound/superfine wet and dry.

Now I remember why I use 2pack....

It's all down to keeping the wet line as has been said then faltting with the finest paper you can get.

A decent polisher is worth it's weight in gold ...... and they are quiet heavy!

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

cheers people im sure ill get there. the insides now much better the bits that will be visible are good enough, smooth and shiney. i think the outside will be easier, theres to many nooks and crannies in the inside. hopefully be ready for painting the outside within the month.

thanks again

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

Just do what Mr bean did Carl and chuck a firework in a can of gloss and run outof your garage! Alot quicker and you MIGHT catch up to me!!!!LOL

Back once again like a renegade master

and dont forget your teddy...

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