10" alloys
Turbo Mini Forums

hi guys
i quite fancy some 10's and i saw these advertised on ebay



the chap says they fit over the 8.4" discs
even with 4 pot calipers and vented discs
they are 10 x 5
the offset is ET15 (but that means nothing to me)

has anyone come across these before?
or is anyone using them?

could just do with some opinions from the powers that be! lol

if these are the wheels i think they are the offset makes them stick out far to clear the caliper. People on here say they ruin the handling but i havnt experienced them myself.

o right cheers, will avoid them then.
do you happen to know what the maximum width of wheel is, without cutting the arches away, if the car is as low as possible?

There are so many parameters with suspension geometry and what you consider to be "low" which makes that impossible to answer.

For the nicest car to drive, which to my mind is the most important thing, you want the ride height so that the driveshafts are parallel with the road surface at rest (or just a fraction slopping down towards the diff if your expecting lots of lift of the front end under acceleration .... and I mean fraction!!).

The wheel width thing will cause "discussion" I am sure but shall we say there is a reason why the ERA turbos ran 6" on ET19. Basically you want the imaginary line drawn through the centre of the top and bottom swivels (looking from the front) to intersect the ground in the centre of the contact patch.
As you are limited to how much you can go inwards when adding width due to fouling issues with the suspension the very wide, 7" and above, wheels have to go outwards. This in turn means that it becomes increasingly difficult to get the intersection in the centre of the contact patch and with every mm wider you go the more your going to have to fight the car under acceleration and on poor road surfaces.


This along with having the driveshafts level limit the amount of torque steer genereated and also how much the car reacts to imperfections on the road surface.

As a rough guide if you run sensible front geometry (camber true 1 to 1.5 deg negative, castor around 6 deg) you will find that any wheel you can't fit under Grp 2s (with the trim strip fitted) are going to be a compromise somewhere.

It is for this reason that I would run more than 6" wide wheels personally, which when you consider that the most common tyre sizes are 175 or 165 then it's about right anyway (a 6J wheel will be around 6.75" wide at the tyre support rim which is around 171.5mm). Over stretched tyres may look cool but they effect both ride and handling.

As for cutting the arches away I am afraid your not really going to be able to avoid this for a low car .... remember the later Sportpack cars ran modied front arches from the factory to clear their silly wheels.

Just my 2ps worth.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

Ouch my brain hurts!!

now im in a predicament!
its all ready gone for spraying but i know they havnt started it yet, so i could still cut the arches i suppose, but also my lovely wood and pickett arches couldnt be fitted which i would quite like to use.

so either way im gonna have to comprimise.
is there any way i could run 6" without cutting the arches, maybe running it a bit higher?

unfortunately it is very difficult to say without having the car built up and sitting at ride height. Not the answer you wanted to hear I'm sure but the reason many build their car twice (once before paint and again after).

IIRC and you have modified the arches as per the instructions that come with genuine W&P arches you will probalby get away with 6" wheels at a sensible ride height.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

no the garage was supossed to be fitting them. i realy need to talk to them then. i thought they just screwed onto the existing lip, bugger.

i bought the arches from mini spares, they where the expensive ones but didnt come with instructions.

ive been scrolling through the topics and cant seem to see a section on cutting the arches
im i goin blind or just lookin in the wrong place?

when I removed the steel I think i removed upto 3/4" (in places) from the indicator down to the bumper then folded a 3/8" lip on to fix to, in the pic the tyre doesnt look to close but it does nearly touch when going from lock to lock, but this maybe down to my suspension geometry being out, but thats another story / job for later this year.
Shane.

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Edited by shane on 16th Apr, 2007.

cheers guys
ive been down to the garage and the arches just look too curved like an inch short.
i read that there are templates for cutting arches on the net but i cant find um.

im just gonna have to spend some time down there gettin them to fit.

I give up, if stretched they would fit but look elongated. and cutting the arches is just gonna hold up the garage,
so a completly new plan is needed.

plus having a closer look at the arches and it seams they have "warped" along the top edge so dont look smooth now, that was 88 squid wasted