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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > a few quickies re building me block.

Richie

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a LIL fishing village on the coast - Newcastle Upon Tyne

ok i am going to build me block tonight. i have a few quickies to ask.


1) what is the correct ring gap for stock pistons ? is there away of checking that the rings 8nt goosed whilst the block is out of the car ?

2) how do i check end float ? i have a magnetic gauge, what should the endfloat be ?

3) what deg should i time me phase 2 cam in at ?

4) any other tips or advice ? iam using ARP rod bolts i take it the same torque applies to regular bolts.

i feel so friggin thick ! i have built a few engines over time, but as i want so much from this, and since starting forced induction it seems that every rule i knew has been turned on its head !


thanks for ure help dudes.


PS i will be getting all me work checked by a reliable member *wink* as usual, but wanted to get back into practice and build it myself first
Richie

Edited by Richie on 17th Apr, 2007.



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On 17th Aug, 2009 Jay#2 said:
I doubt I'll be dipping into the 13's like you did though!






Kean

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aka T2clubby

South Staffs

1. Check the haynes mate, the gap tolerance should be in there, this will also let you know how shagged they are.

2. The endfloat tolerances are also in the haynes, setup your DTI on a solid surface of the block and the needle on the item to be measured, then move it to its limits and note the maximum readings.

3. Erm 110 degrees rings a bell, someone else will clarify

4. ARPs use different torque settings, lower usually if you use their lube... have a search on here or check the arp website for exact figures.

As for tips, make sure everything is as clean as a whistle, triple check all tightnesses and quadrouple check your cam timing.

Apart from that its easy peasy

Edited by Kean on 17th Apr, 2007.


Nick
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Midlands

phase 2 cam is 108 degrees, 12 degrees was that dizzy last night dude, lol *wink*

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.


Kean

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2406 Posts
Member #: 341
aka T2clubby

South Staffs

I actually ment 112, but missed a 1 out you pedantic arse *tongue*

Plus im knackered so feck off.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

LOL at bud and T2!

Haynes i'm pretty sure (without checking) says 2-3 thou for end float for a std engine, many people like to open this up to around 7 though on race engines, as a turbo motor is likely to get quite hot i'd look ideally for about 4-5 thou, but its really a preference thing, but obviously you dont want to go too tight!!

also with the ring gaps, off the top of my head i would look for 8-10 thou, maybe a bit tighter on a std or 1293 rather than 1380 block, but as its a turbo there will be more heat so this "feel's" right to me.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/


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