OT Subaru
Turbo Mini Forums

Need to remove a legacy 2.2 lump

never done it have no idea where the engine to gearbox bolts ere ect

anyone worked on one? give me pointers?

assumign it has the same underpinnings as an imprezza,

from the top:

intercooler off

disconect wiring loom at multiplugs, disconect heavy duty wiring
disconect lambda and gearbox wiring.
disconect spedo drive if mechanical
disconect engine mount at rear above clutch slave
remove slave from gearbox along with any brackets on the clutch arm
undo starter motor, remove if you want extra room (not necesary)
remove downpipe from turbo (if turbo'd)
remove radiator
remove fuel lines, MARK THEM UP!!!
remove throttle cable,
remove heater matrix pipes.
remove power steering and air con lines dfrom there pumps.

lift car up

if you dont want to drain the gear oil(i.e. this is a quick in-out) leave rear driveshaft in and undo the 4 bolts that hold the 2 bits of the driveshaft together, use cableties to stop prop shaft sliding out the gearbox. if you wana drain the oil, do it now then remove the propshaft at the 4-bolts and from the gearbox complete.
remove remaining exhaust bolts /downpipe.
undo the lower suspension arms where they join the shell
drift the roll pins out the front shafts
push the whole front wheel + assembly + shafts outu the way and clear of the 'box.
undo the 2 engine mount bolts underneath.
EDIT undoo and remove the gearbox support crade.
the engie will rock back alot, but its ok, it wont fall on you :)

lower the car back down, attach a hoist to the inlet manifold and lift the engien and 'box complete out the top.


----

if you MUST remove the gearbox with the engine in place, you need a 10mm alen key and remove the plug for the release fork, then screw a M8 bolt into the shaft and pull it out (all this from the top) then remove the 4 bolts that hold the 'box to teh engine and pull it off.

all going well it should ttake you more than a few hours if its your first time :)

Edited by evolotion on 20th May, 2007.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

I think I'll make a few amendments to that.

You dont need to touch the speedo drive or box wiring...
Mentioning the clutch....a n/a 2.2 car would have a cable clutch, so no hydraulics, and on turbo cars with hydraulics, you still dont need to remove the slave.

Starter, generally I remove, and let it hang, although I guess no real need to remove it ( although 1 bellhousing bolt does also hold the starter in place )

Do not remove PAS pipes etc. Unbolt the entire pump assembley and set it to the side. There is no need to spill any fluid anywhere.

If it has Aircon, I think you can do the same here...although its much trickier. Saves re-gassing though.

Ive no idea why evo is mentioning draining gear oil, as it is most definately not needed if just removing the engine ??
And if removing the engine, why are you saying to remove both ?

I would never attempt to remove both in one go....far far far easier to remove them seperately if you needed to do that. Engine first, then box from below.
Engine out is easily a 90 min job assuming no siezed bolts.

There are 4 bellhousing bolts on older cars, 6 on newer cars. The upper steady arm as mentioned already. Other than those and the clutch, you do not need to touch the box at all for removing the engine.

Aside from that, underneath there are 2 engine mount nuts...thats all. ( plus exhaust etc )


There really isnt a lot holding them in, and they are much easier to work at that they first appear.
If using an engine crane you do not need to remove the bonnet.
Remove the bonnet stay bar from the car....then look at the drivers strut tower. There is another eyelet there. Use this to support the bonnet.

And for the last bit....
Turbo engines with a pull type clutch do require the pivot pin to be removed to allow teh fork to be removed from the release bearing.. Once the Allen key bung is removed, its an M6 bolt that is used to remove the pin ( hope that this isnt siezed )
But this only applies to turbo cars. n/a cars use a normal push type clutch operated via a cable.

if its a pull type clutch, I'll explain easiest way to re-fit if you need to know.


oh...and if its an auto....try and unbolt the torque convertor and leave it attached to the gearobx. its an absolute PITA to re-fit if you dont do this !!!, plus oil goes everywhere if you remove the torque convertor with the engine.

Edited by stevieturbo on 21st May, 2007.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

never realised you could pull the engien with the gearbox in place, i always pull both as a pair! method i suggested above is the quickest way i have found thus far (only ever do turbo imprezza's) handy to know though, i do alot of them! cheers :)

what about installign the engien back in with the 'box in place, is it much hastle getting it all lined up?

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Its a doddle...Dont forget, the long lower 2 studs assist with alignment when re-fitting.
Just jack the box up as high as it will go, and slide the engine in, lowering both a little as required.

And just thinking...re: leaving the starter in place. On a turbo thats actually impossible. You must remove this to gain access to the allen key bung for the clutch fork pivot.

When re-fitting the release mech...

Remove the release bearing from the clutch cover....a large screwdriver can be used to release its retaining clip. Simple insert and twist should do it.

Build the fork/pivot/bearing back onto the box ready for re-installation.. A simple push rearwards of the top of the fork will re-engage the bearing into the cover., then put the pushrod from the slave back into place. The slave does not need to be unbolted at any time.

Also with the turbo...it isnt actually necessary to remove the downpipe either, although obviously it does need unbolted from the turbo.

On a good day, you can have the engine out in 60 mins or so.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

its the lower 2 stud's i was worried about when you mentioned pulling the engien seperate, couldnt for the life of me remember if there was enough room to swing the lump forward enough to clear, at any rate next subaru i strip will be getting done your way, im intrigued :)

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

This forums great

well we managed to get the engine out :) wasn't as difficult as we first expected.

They do look daunting at first....but if only other such cars were designed as well, life would be so much easier.

Subarus on the most part really are a doddle to work at.

Toyotas, Evos, Cossies etc....I wouldnt even look near them 99% of the time. Far too much hassle.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

thanks to olli engine was out in about 1 1/2 hrs but loom took alot longer even smashing stuff up along the way rather than unbolting

I made Friends with farmer twin tooth by talking tractors for 5 mins, who turned car over for us and gas axed the exhaust and front panel off








gearbox was not needed:



next came the job of taking the loom out.....

forgot to say the price

£50 for engine inc all accilleries and £5 for the loom inc ecu lol

hahaha, bargin! I love estate cars, they really are the way forward!

Is this going in a t25 by any chance?

yes mate eventually

sounds like a great project, let me know if you want a tea maker/spanner holder.

please tell me u r going to put it in a mini ? i fancy a GTIR or even a T5 conversion, might do that next psml.

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no its going in my vw camper

just as good

______________________________________________________
TRADER HALL OF FAME
BENROSS...MINIMARK..WOLFIE (comic genius).....CARL....MARTPAUL.......AXEL
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TRADERS OF SHAME
1 user....pm me 4 details

LEGENDS
MikeRace, Mini13