are door brace bars required to keep the shell true when lopping the sills off?
Turbo Mini Forums

I am going to get very much heavily involved in the most scary part of the restoration tomorrow and remove the oversills, I am expecting the worst, the shell will just be turned on its side. Also some of the door step will have to be removed.

I will do each sill one at a time to keep as much rigitity in the shell. Is it a necessity to use brace bars to keep the shell streight across the door apartures and what is the best way to fit them if they are required?

Thanks

Its not a bad idea, but as long as the inner sill and floors are OK and you dont leave it too long with no sill, it should be fine. Ive done dozens.

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

When we did ours we did not brace it up. One side at a time as you say and keep the movement to a minimum once the sill is off.

I'm no expert, but ours stayed streight.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

movement is the key, forget it if your planning on rolling the shell as you'll def need the brace bars. Learnt from experiance as my doors dont fit so well anymore?!

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie

As above .... try to do the step and sill separately if you can.

Before you fully weld throw the door back on roughly and check the alignment. No need to gap it upproperly at this stage but you have to make sure it will be possible whilst you still have the option to rectify what is required.

I have the headache of having no sill, step, floor corner, inner sill or toe-board section! Now that takes some alignment!!!!!

Good luck mate, take your time and keep checking stuff and you'll be fine.

Edited by RogerM on 28th May, 2007.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...