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Home > How To > HOW TO BREAK YOUR NEW ENGINE IN CORRECTLEY

PaulH

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1346 Posts
Member #: 2340
Post Whore

Dublin Ireland

Couln't agree with you more Carl all this CNC boring ectra is IMO no better, I hand hone all my engines using a dial bore gauge to check as I go it has never let me down to date.

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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maccamcvey

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847 Posts
Member #: 6673
Post Whore

Worral Sheffield

what the hell dose IMO mean?

feel free to call me a jackass!


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

in my opinion
jackass! lol

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



fastcarl

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6962 Posts
Member #: 507
Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.




On 5th Dec, 2009 maccamcvey said:
what the hell dose IMO mean?

feel free to call me a jackass!


IMO, its a car wash franchise

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Mr Joshua

2484 Posts
Member #: 1954
Post Whore

Luton Bedfordshire



On 5th Dec, 2009 James_H said:
As for the difference between bike and car engines im not convinced. I thought it was all down to bore/stroke/rod ratios and crank design etc etc, afterall they work in the same way just rev higher....generally.


I just remembered this small fact about a particular modern bike it has a prgrammed in safety feature that prevents the rider from running the engine hard until it has achieved a critical running temperature. So if this function is on all the time this theory cannot be applied. I would assume the engine designers have done this to prolong the life of the engines.

Also Porsche (and dont ask me how) worked out that the bores of an engine have a certain elastity when new and every combustion cycle the bore goes through causes the bore to expand and contract. What they found out was that the bore experienceing this expansion and contraction cycle would after a number of cyles set into shape. They also determined that no matter what the frequency of these cycles it took the exact same number of cycles to work the bore till it set.

Also motor bike bores are magplated (not to sure on that one) aluminium alloy or silicon linned bores both these materials are extremely hard wearing and would require lots of pressure to cause ware. as far as I am aware only porsche and Mercedez produce care engines that use silicon lined bores.

So like I said the tech is way different between bikes and cars.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 5th Dec, 2009.

Own the day


minimole23

4300 Posts
Member #: 1321
Post Whore

Wiltshire



On 5th Dec, 2009 Mr Joshua said:



I just remembered this small fact about a particular modern bike it has a prgrammed in safety feature that prevents the rider from running the engine hard until it has achieved a critical running temperature. So if this function is on all the time this theory cannot be applied. I would assume the engine designers have done this to prolong the life of the engines.




The vtec in my CRX has something similar. I never usually drive engines hard till they got some heat in them, but the other day my mate decided to have a go at passing me in his pug, so I dropped it a cog to teach him a lesson as its much quicker. But with not enough heat in the engine I landed on a limiter of 6000 ish rpm as opposed to 8700 ish normally.

Personally I've never hit the limiter when the engines hot, only my mate did when I let him drive it.

Edited by minimole23 on 5th Dec, 2009.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


Andrew 998 mini

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54 Posts
Member #: 5639
Advanced Member

Weert Holland

I was educated during my mecanics training to run an engine in by driving it as you would expect a customer to drive it.

Basicly we where told to let the engine woarm up (oil not just the water temp) and then use the reve range and throttle (power) but always changing , nevver just hammering or stikking to lowish RPM or small throttle opening.

also use engine brakeing change down a gear end let the engine slow the car down.

also constantly changing the load on the engine. accellerating decelleratin constant speed etc.

This has alwas worked for me ( mainly rover V8's and other Landrover engines)


Andrew

Cheers, Andrew

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Little car Little power........... For now That is!!!!!

1983 mini down paid, must collect soon and get welding!
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jom

83 Posts
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Advanced Member

I'd like to try this..so first start the engine and just sprint on road after worm up? how many RPM should i do during the worm up?


Andrew 998 mini

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54 Posts
Member #: 5639
Advanced Member

Weert Holland

as moste say try not to let a rebuilt engine idel for to long, but ofcorse you need time to chek for leeks and to make sure you have enough oil and coolant before you take to the road.

I reacently rebuilt a rover V8 i had the engine running at 2000 rpm while i cheked the coolant level timing and whether there were eny leeks then took it out and whent for a 60 mile drive after the fist 6-7 miles i had a second quick look under the hood for leaks or eny other probs, then just slowly incresed the power and let the engine work pulling from low douwn the rpm range in a high gear. after the 60 mile trip i changed the oli and filter and i will change the oil and filter again next week aft it has done about 1000 mils then i intend to halve the servic intevals to about 3000 miles as the V8's are known for there bad oil pumps and cheescake kam shafts.

Cheers, Andrew

______________________________________________________
Little car Little power........... For now That is!!!!!

1983 mini down paid, must collect soon and get welding!
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Turbo This..

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1767 Posts
Member #: 9165
Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

an old topic i know.. soon i will have to start my new motor for the first time and id like to get it right if there is a right and wrong way for our A series engines..

so how about the cam/first ever start?

the most common thing i have found is not to let it idle..
so dose that mean start it get the revs to say 2000 - 3500 get it wormed up and check things over like leaks, afr, oil pressure then take it for a spin once the coolant and oil are up to temp?

i think it will be a stressful/exciting time trying to get everything set up and good to go in the time taken to get the oil and water hot


Johnny

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1183 Posts
Member #: 6926
Post Whore

Accrington

I did very similar to this. Drive down to castle Combe with heavy bursts of power. Then gave it death round the track. Changed oil then drove to nurburgring and gave it more death :) it did 6k miles with no problems and I have inspected the block and there are no signs of any problems. Hone marks are still there. I may also add it got top power for the boost I was running.


WRLondon

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1170 Posts
Member #: 8636
Post Whore

Surrey

Very stressful haha,
the idea is not to let it idle so make sure you set up your timing, fueling etc. as much as possible before the first start

then once you get it started set the idle to 1800+ via the carb letting it warm up abit
check for leaks or loose bolts *happy*
then take it for a spin up to 4k varying loads avoiding too much labour


On 18th Aug, 2013 Turbo This.. said:
an old topic i know.. soon i will have to start my new motor for the first time and id like to get it right if there is a right and wrong way for our A series engines..

so how about the cam/first ever start?

the most common thing i have found is not to let it idle..
so dose that mean start it get the revs to say 2000 - 3500 get it wormed up and check things over like leaks, afr, oil pressure then take it for a spin once the coolant and oil are up to temp?

i think it will be a stressful/exciting time trying to get everything set up and good to go in the time taken to get the oil and water hot

Reading up on RTS Clutches

On 21st Sep, 2006 Paul S said:

Go on, be brave, put it in the car and tell us how it works.
Pity your bollocks are in line with the flywheel!
On 27th May, 2013 robert said:

putting my testicles on the line for turbo mini owners everywhere ,and they still work !


Turbo This..

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1767 Posts
Member #: 9165
Previously josh4444

Australia, brisbane

so in my case ill be best to stick the 123 dissy in to get going then swap to ms3x which i plan to run later for efi but first ignition and tuning/monitoring functions

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