k build on a series?
Turbo Mini Forums

any problems with building a k head engine on a a-series as opposed to a+? any downsides etc? ive fallen over a block and was going to start building, but thought i'd better check that there are no downsides to using it as a base!!!!! Are the cranks interchangable, as i dont rate my chances of finding a 'a' crank in useable nick!!?

cheers.

one more thing, anyone know of the top of their head what drive the turbo oil pumps are? i cant remeber.......

And on the 7th day........... God created turbochargers!

Oil pumps are slot drive.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I'd use an A+ block personally, its a better, stiffer, block to use as a basis.

Edited by Vegard on 16th Aug, 2007.

A+ blocks are defintely better, it would have been completely mad to create a new block just for material downgrade ( we talk about iron).
I'm rebuilding a block, which is a first A+ block, gearboxe have plenty of play and wear,which is a good indice of milage and the block just need a set of rings and camshaft bearings.. a pre A+ block at this stage would need at min rebore, and this have been constated many many times

ps:what about pistons Veg?

I'm with the nordish on this one,

all the high milage A blocks i have torn down seem to have hal less wear than a similar A+.

I suspect S blocks may be a better grade again, as they seem unduly heavy compared to Non S blocks.

Fab, forgot about it. Will take action tonight if that was what you meant :)

Look at the A+ rods. They're bloody shite compared to the A ones apart from weight.

veg
bloody en16 shite they are! (I store a set of "good guy rods" for my project engine) but they can take quasi any punishment that the gears straight or not can't (I've raced them up to 8500 with three non owner guys (see what I mean) for two complete days and they did survive very well
Not agree with wear. I've seen many high milage A+ blocks with honing marks in them, and this include mg mety ones, and this is not the case with innocenti/1275gt blocks.regarding S bloc... if only I could have one
regarding the topic, if I only had a pre A+ block , I wouldn't care about all that stuff, quality oil is the point.If I had or could have easily an A+ one unstead of the A one I would go for it

I should metion I've seen A+ block with not much wear...

they had liners.

lol

I wouldnt say the ribs were there to increase the strangth but rather retain the strength where they have removed metal to save on weight, metal and ultimately production cost.

Visard warns of gringing A+ blocks to clear long stroke cranks, you will likely find fresh air in places.

Dont thingk the grade of cast iron is that different. how can you compare wear on bores between different engines when the chances of you knowing these engines full history is remote, different oils, running in and driving conditions as well as fuels.

I will say this, the late, unleaded engines wear quicker, no lead and less zzdp addatives.

As far as im concerned, block rigidity is in the casting design. Open tappet chest blocks looking to be a little on the flexible side?

Another thing that makes them flexible is the variation in flange thickness facing the box. The S blocks are thinner here, and do also have the tapper chest covers...

I know quite a lot of subaru drivers and they tend to add sleeves to the block to strengthen it a bit. What struck me as odd is that I don't read alot about sleeves in A+ blocks?