Turbo box pictures
Turbo Mini Forums

Ive just cut out mine and got it in place ready to try and weld! B12 you thought about fitting an automatic mini's top engine stabiliser? I heard that can solve that problem with them being longer.

My tip is - REMOVE THE FOAM BEHIND THE HEATER! IT CATCHES FIRE! Nobody warned me about that! Its my first ever go with an angle grinder!!!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Yeah either an auto dog bone or an adjustable one from minispares or KAD.

Chaps ..
about the longer dog bone ....
I though about that ; and have some worries

1) not sure if my dog bone at the font of th gbox to Subframe would be too short if I push the engine 4ward ?
2) Not sure how my engine mounts will react to being slightly always under some pressure ( twisting ) I know it will be a small amount ..
3) not sure how the inner CV's will like running at a strange angle

If I am talking shit , please feel free to to tell me my new fellow mini madmen !!

Steve

TurboLessTosser

Pretty sure there are no worries, not sure about the gearbox steadies to be honest, havent tried fitting any on mine.

Sure the cv's are fine, wer;re only talking half an inch

Im going to look into adjustable ones then! And ill ask if theres any adjustable gearbox ones when i phone up.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

not sure if they're needed, just thought, you drill your own hole for it to mount!!! No need for it to be adjustable!

After looking at the photos and reading your post I want to say thank you!. I am yanking the 998 out of my mini and starting to prepare myself and the mini for the new Metro Turbo motor. I see the issue with the turbo inlet and the bulkhead clearance so i was thinking of taking the box all the way down another 3 or 4 inch's to the lip. I am also adding an 6 point roll cage with diag bars, door bars and knee bars. This should give the car back some of it's rigidness.

I am also going to yank the wipers out of the car as well as the heater box. I do have a question though, What did yall do for the speedo and gauge connections? Stock location?

Steve Waters
U.S.A.

All down to personal preference, the bulkhead box sits lower than the dash so there's no need to worry about anything clashing.

Wouldnt want to have no wipers, no wipers means no MOT.

Heater can be done without though.

no worry of MOT here. I am in the USA and no Inspections...

Good Info here and I am sure I will have many more questions...

Steve Waters
U.S.A.

Dont know if anyone has found the box to be a water trap causing rust but mine is welded low down so i had enough room to also weld in a slant along the bottom. Just that i know alot of people have some type of ventage near the back of the bonnet so water will get there!

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-

I also welded the bottom of mine on a slight angle.

To mention i also cut up some heat proofing that i found on the bottom of a escort 1.6 16v P reg. it fits the box nicely and i self tappered it in.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

is there a particulaly good box to buy? i.e. minispares or avonbar etc?

i used the minispares one just because they're up the road from me. make sure you seam weld the box aswell, mine only had about 8 spotwelds holding it together.

k, i'm not doing the job myself, my local coachwork guys are so i'll ask them to seam it. Whats the other little plate of metal that somes with it for?

Edited by Mike on 3rd Dec, 2004.

that is for the angled section on the end nearest the wiper motor, it gives a bit more clearance for the air hose and the actuator, especially if you are using a larger actuator!

i never actually used the piece that came with the box, as i made the angled bit slightly bigger and just cut a piece of metal to fit.

““A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”” - Jeremy Clarkson

yeh, i did as adam did, just cut the angle as large as possible then welded a suitable bit of steel in. looks like there will be plety of room, only irony is that ive no iintention of it ever seeing a t3 so it was pprobably a waste of time! lol!

And on the 7th day........... God created turbochargers!

i'm pretty sure the avonbar box allready comes seam weled

i have an avonbar ultimate steady, the one that bolts to the water pump, will i still be able ti use that as it looks like the mount has been cut away for the box, also will the actuator foul the steady?

i think its a case of having to make up your own mounting brackets for the ultimate steadys dude. i know ive had to for mine as your right they do get cut out.

im sure TD has said this a million times but weld the bulkhead bit of the steady to the bulkhead! as you wil remove the mounting holes for it.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

im guessing im the only one who cant see those pics but i think i understand whats goin on, i was wondering how hard it is to make a box yourself, i have all the equiptment to make it but i dont know what shape or how big ect.

998 turbo

ill sort the dead links soon. got some better pictures.

ian, any chance of fixing the links? :)

ill email you the pics in the morning mate

then il fix them when i remember! lol!

cheers m8 :)