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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Finished stripping my block

Mattlad

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127 Posts
Member #: 1871
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Chesterfield, Derbyshire

Ive just finished stripping down my block, I bought it for £200 as a complete turbo engine, Bargin!! The guy I bought it off was running it as a turbo, he said it needed stripping cause it was chucking oil through a piston.

After searching on here for part numbers for the internals, it seems it is not a turbo engine.

Part Numbers below

Rods: 12G1507/8
Crank: 12G1505
Engine Number: 12H694AAH

It also has a Duplux timing chain which appears to be standard!

Will this engine/parts stand big BHP or will alot of parts need repacing?

Is it an A or A+ Does it make any difference?


Vegard

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7765 Posts
Member #: 74
I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

It's an A. No, it doesn't make a blind bat of a difference. The rods are even stronger!

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Mattlad

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127 Posts
Member #: 1871
Advanced Member

Chesterfield, Derbyshire

Now ive finished stripping my pre A+ engine down Im abit worried about some of the components,

12G1505 Crank - is it upto the job, or can I fit an A+ Crank, will that be stronger or is there a better pre A+ crank?

Gearbox - I am planning on stripping it all down and rebuilding it as straight cut, am I best to have an A+ Box?

Shall I just buy an A+ Engine?

im wanting big power so I want a strong engine

Cheers

Matt


Richie

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3184 Posts
Member #: 628
Post Whore

a LIL fishing village on the coast - Newcastle Upon Tyne

12g 1505 crank i believe was 1275 gt
i used these cranks on 1430 race stuff which i used to have stroked. I had to scream the knackers off those engines and they survived (around a rally x circuit no less)

with turbo stuff there is no need to screem the engines knackers off (high rpm) if you catch me drift. get it checked and if need be re ground / pollished.

personally i would fit the center main strap and arp bolts, it is not mandatory, but after seeing a big end cap let go at 6500 rpm on the rollers it tends to make you think twice. my damage cost ran into the 1000nds. ARP rod bolt set is 60 quid, a main strap mod is 7.95 and machine work for the center main bearing is 3.75 (where i get mine done) so the maths has to be worth it for peice of mind *wink* A+ bolts were better quality than the A series so i would really consider what i have said, you dont need to go out and buy an A+ matey.

Richie



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On 17th Aug, 2009 Jay#2 said:
I doubt I'll be dipping into the 13's like you did though!






Mattlad

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127 Posts
Member #: 1871
Advanced Member

Chesterfield, Derbyshire

Cheers,

I was planning on getting it re-ground anyway, I just didn't want to spend loads of money doing all the work and then find it breaks!!

Ill be using ARP bolts and centre main strap too, want to get it as strong as possible, dont want it chuckin' a rod out!

Matt


Vegard

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7765 Posts
Member #: 74
I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

Use it, dare to be different *wink*

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.


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