misfiring/spluttering between 2k and 3ish, coming on boost
Turbo Mini Forums

I've had this problem for a while, and i think someone has talked about it a long time ago. it splutters and misfires just before it comes on boost, when its on boost its fine. i remember someone saying that they had the problem and it was something to do with the ignition amp not getting the 12v until its on boost or something like that?!?! how do i check to see if thats the problem, or could it be something to do with the fuel pump!? any help much apprectiated.

cheers

matt

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

Check you have a 12v feed unballast to the dizzy, check the balance pipe on the carb for splits etc. Fuel pump would most likely show up on boost not off it.

Check all earths too.

If not may just need setting up on a RR to get it spot on.

DEFINITELY check that you haven't used the resistor wire to your coil as iain said, my engine ran fine at idle but got very lethargic as the revs rose, I ran a 12v+ from the fuse box (non fused side) to the coil and the problem went away. Check, obviously, that your coil is a non-ballast type.

Dave

Speedster turbo under construction

If it's a pink / white wire going to your coil, then it's resistive and needs changing!

hi all.

just had a look at the wires, i have a white wire going to the positive side of the coil, and a white/black one going to the negative side. the coil is a std lucas dlb198 item.

does this answer any of the questions?

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

hmmm, wiring sounds right, should be a regular 12V un ballasted that one.

as TD said, pink and white is resisitive so yours isn't that.

did you check that carb balance pipe?
time to look elsewhere.

Speedster turbo under construction

Hi, no i didnt check the balance pipe. is that the one that needs blocking off?

if it is, mine is already blocked off as its the early type carb, i have tried it with a later type one with it blocked off with a pipe and bolt and it still does the same.

do you think it could be anything to do with the timing?

it desperatly needs a rolling road session, but i wanted to wait untl i could afford to have the carb reconditioned, maybe i'll just have to have it done!

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

the balamce pipe goes from the right hand side of the carb (looking from the front) to the to near the carb outlet (manifold end) They can be blocked off as they are only there for emissions but have also been known to cause misfires when blocked.

I would think that the timing is fine if it is OK at idle and on boost. Have you done the usual check-tighten of grounds and coil/dizzy connections? It could be a tricky one to find unless you get it on the RR. You may find it is lean/rich at that point in the revs or that your carb needs cleaning maybe even a minor re-build.

RR is the best idea for misfires, saves alot of time and money buying parts that you THINK are faulty.

Sorry can't be more help

Dave

Speedster turbo under construction

thanks for that advice dave

in the picture below, the balance pipe is the blue one yes? the one with the arrow pointing at it?



i have checked this and it appears to be fine. i think like you said the RR is probably the asnwer for it, when i can afford it

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

1310, my computer will not show your pictures for some strange reason, I can see Iain's signature waving red bloke but nothing from you

Speedster turbo under construction

god damn imagestation, no one use it, its shite!

im sure this will work

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

thats the balance pipe mate

Try clamping it with a set of molegrips or similar and see what gives...
I suspect it's a momentary leanout.

Hang on, you have got oil in your dashpot to the recomended amnount haven't you???

If you don't sort it, bring it to Avon, one of us will figure it out i'm sure!

funny you should mention the dashpot oil

i shouldnt have to top it up every other day should i? when i top it up, some leaks through as when i start it up there is blue smoke while that oil is burnt, sometimes it will stay in there for a couple of days, it did this in my 1275 and now the turbo, diff carbs obviously, and i know that doesnt sound right.

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

You are only filling the inner tube aren't you? Sounds silly but i've seen people fill it all up the inner tube, then let it overflow to the outer section where it just pours down the 'balance' holes in the base of the piston assy...
Result: smokey engine, then they complain it's empty! and repeat the exercise!

I use a nice little bottle that some 'pukka' damper oil came in, that has a lovely thin tapered top that allows you to trickle th oil just into the damper tube only...

yes dave i have been doing that, i use a small plastic funnel type think that is tapered so you can pour it in. i will fill it up again today and see how long it lasts, but i still have this mis-fire/splutter even when the dashpot is full. what oil is best for the dashpot though? ive only ever used the oil that i put in the engine, which is millers classic

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

that's a wierd one then...

You coming to Avon? sounds like it needs a dose of looking at...

I am also getting this problem. Car idles ok, and revs to 2k alright. When it revs up it keeps dieing though! When i get it on boost though, and revving high, it drives and boosts fully all the time! Just cant let the revs drop. I also noticed the dashpot oil thing, thats why i want to try another carb.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

I also thought id mention, ive also changed the actuator, but it still does the same.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

you tried replacing the coil feeble? i had a similar prob on my N/A 1275 where i couldnt let it drop below 3k as it would try and cut out, turned out to be the wrong type of coil.

Dave, i didnt make any plans to go to Avon as i couldnt drive it there, i live in the south west. Also, could i swap the dizzy and the dizzy drive for a N/A item to see if its the ignition amplifier module?? i bought a new one, pluged it in, and the car wouldnt even start!

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

Nice one! ill give that a go too, im pretty confident its a carb problem though

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3