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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Clutch problems, anyone ever had play in their pedal??

jamesfawcett

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Bingley, West Yorkshire

Ive had clutch problems forever, i always have to press the pedal right to the floor to get it to work.

This week i set out to sort it out. I changed the seals on the master cylinder, which were fine anyway, i changed the clutch slave, and the pipe. I adjusted the clutch wok nut perfect as per turbodaves guide, but its still rubbish! Still no difference! Im bleeding it right, and everything shoudl be fine.

all i can put it down to is that there is loads of play in the clutch pedal! Does anyone know what causes this? the master cylidner is only about 4000 miles old, and the seals are brand new now, what causes the play in it?

Ive bought another pin arm (the rod thing that goes into the clutch slave) should i weld an extension onto it?

thanks everyone!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3


Nick
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Midlands

check for wear on the clevis pins, check for wear on the ball on the end of the clutch arm (if thats gone best to replace the plunger too)

if you still have no joy either make a longer slave push rod or stick a nut on the end of it, usually only have to do that in extreme cases though ie if you cant get enough throw to disengage it at all.

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.


wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

^^ what he said. My money is on play in the plunger and arm

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

what they said^^

to be sure i'd recomend getting a new pin that goes into the slave, and a new clutch arm.

I presume this is a preverto setup?

adjust it with out the spring on the slave, pull the clutch arm out to take any slack up then wind the stop bolt out til it touches the arm and then back a flat and lock it up, then put the spring on.

I think its also worth having a braided hose from the master cylinder to the slave too.

inspect the clutch pedal clevis pin hole for wear too, on my mk1 it was worn to fuck, i driled oit out bigger and sleeved it with a bit of brass.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



jamesfawcett

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3341 Posts
Member #: 218
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Bingley, West Yorkshire

Thanks everyone, ill order the plunger and arm, and also a clevis pin (hate doing the R clips!!) and ill replace the whole lot

cheers!
james

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3


Rob H

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Member #: 700
Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

On 2nd Feb, 2008 feebleuk said:
a clevis pin


There are three clevis pins, and they all wear so you're best of replacing the lot.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


jamesfawcett

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Bingley, West Yorkshire

Hi everyone,

It was all down to wear in the parts,
The clevis pin at the top of the pedal was badly grooved, so replaced this.
Replaced all the others, too in the engine bay, but the ball on the end of the short arm was also worn badly.

Ive ordered a new one, but until it comes rather than extend the pin by welding onto the end a brake union fit perfect. It acts like a sleeve over the end of the pin, doesnt move about and extends it just slightly. A quick working bodge!

So for now, i can get all gears no problem, then when the new arm comes ill replace all the parts!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

I love this picture:

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

is that one of carls lightweight cranks?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"


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