turbo 4 pots and 10s
Turbo Mini Forums

Is it true some 10s can fit over metro turbo 4 pots? Its just im thinking of going to 10s and i have been offered a set of 4 pots cheep!

and what wheels do people know that fit! Cheers

yes and no

yes, if you fit massive spacers, and i do meen massive, you can fit 10's but the wheel will be beside the disc and not over it. plus handling will be scary. and there will be extra loading on the studs so they could snap. (basically do not do this, its very bad practice)

if you turn the disc to between 7.5" and 7.9" and move the caliper (must be 4 pot) inwards by the thickness of the caliper mounting bolt, then most 10" alloys will fit. you may also need to cut the tops of the bleed nipples and smooth off the casting marks in the caliper. (i have done this set up and by moving the caliper there is a risk the hub or caliper could be weak!)

the best bet is either the old cooper S set up but they dont stop that well, or aftermarket 4 pot calipers and the vented disc turned down as before.

also when i did the vented disc and 4 pot conversion, i used late 998/1275 metro brakes as there exactly the same as the turbo brakes but easier to come by and a lot cheaper.

Just when you say that, are the brakes of k series engined metro the same?

Rover Metro brakes are completely different again, and not really much use for a Mini.

S brakes are fine.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

Has anyone else ever tried what Turbo shed described? What are your experiences with it?

move the caliper (must be 4 pot) inwards by the thickness of the caliper mounting bolt,



how do you do this russel ???
doesnt sometnig get a bit thin if you either slot the holes in the caliper or the hub ?
regards robert

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

i redrilled the hub so the new hole just broke into the old hole and then welded it all up.

you need late mini disc hubs, metro vented discs, metro drive flanges and metro calipers.

when complete the caliper will rub on the disc so it will need sanding, and the caliper will also rub on the wheel (also requires sanding etc)

i turned the discs down to 7.5" like the "S" discs, but after fitting i think 7.9" will fit and work better.

BUT this is not exactly a safe modification. remounting the caliper or as others have done, re drilling the caliper will thin the metal and reduce strength. this will only fail under extreme pressure, ie when you need the brakes thay may decide to fail!

i now have "S" discs so i can use reverse rims. only problem is it dont stop!

turbo shed how long did you use this set up?

Anybody else tried this?

The modded 4 pot Metro caliper route (unvented) worked fine for me and it's the second time I've converted solid 'S' discs this way.

On my van, I've squeezed them under 10 inch Cooper 'S' 4.5 x 10 steel wheels, the original rare 9 hole jobbies with the wider offset on the inside rather than the outside as with reverse rims.

You have to be brave to do it though as the bulk of the machining is on the outer half of the caliper where you need to heavily chamfer the external face of the casting of the two piston housings. Best if you separate the caliper here then rebuild with new piston seals and caliper half port seals. If you take too much off on the outer housings where the split line of the caliper is, you run the risk of breaking into the fluid transfer port between the two halves of the caliper.

On mine, I reamed out the two caliper bolt holes and press fitted some interference steel plugs which I made up.

After relieving the casting in the caliper surrounding each plug, its now possible to re-drill the the bolting position about 9 mm further into the caliper body. When you re-drill your new bolt holes, you just break into the plugged material.

I then relieved the bolt hole on the hub and trimmed off as much excess casting as possible to enable the caliper to fit securely.

With 'S' discs, I only needed 5 mm spacers between the caliper and hub in order to centralise the caliper over the disc. I detest wheel spacers and I'm glad to say I needed none.

The outer bleed nipple on each caliper will foul the inside of the wheel rim if left as long as it is normally so I shortened mine just enough to get a spanner onto the hex. It gets a bit messy when bleeding as the fluid shoots out into the rag, but its painless. Even better if you use silicon fluid.

I've attached an old pic to show the sort of clearance you get on a steel S wheel. If this was a reverse rim, you probably wouldn't need to machine the piston housings so much.

I'll take some updated shots tonight of the nice new modded set I have on my van. These are fitted with EBC Green Stuff metro pads along with a KAD rear disc conversion.

Going modded metro 4 pots could save you money but you need to balance this against unsprung weight (in modded form each caliper is only slightly heavier than a cast iron 12 inch job) and safety.

Richard.

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Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

i'm currently running a similar setup on my car.

std 2 pot calipers with 7.9" solid discs. the outside of the caliper has been ground down to clear the wheel and the mounting holes have been welded up and redrilled so it sits closer to the centre of the disc.

I did have a 4 pot vented setup that had been modded in a similar way but i sold it on cos i didn't like the idea of the bleed nipple being sheared off to clear the wheel.

I'd agree with turbo shed, it's definately not something to be done unless you know exactly what you're doing. i bought mine already modded off a mate who knows his onions and had them fitted on his old crosser.

I will be changing to an S setup eventually, or one of the alloy 4 pots if funds allow.

We combined the chinese 10inch cooper alloys that fit over the standard 84 and on calipers. with slichtly machined down vented four pot calipers and disks, and that worked fine.

Trying to find pictures....

Robert can you remember that set we saw at Coombe, I can't remember how it was done now though but looked neat!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i have seen it with 10x6 wellers with standard 8.4" disk's just the edge of the caliper ground down. works well but i personally wouldnt do it

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Sorry for the delay but I've managed to get some phots of the newly refurbished modded metro 4 pots as fitted under my 10 inch 'S' rims.

Just to highlight some key points if you're gonna go down this route :

- you can see the amount of material that has to be removed from the piston housing of outer caliper half and the amount of material I had to remove from the bleed screw to stop it from fouling the inside of the wheel rim.

- you should just also be able to make out the amount of material removed from the inside of the inboard caliper half to a) reposition the caliper bolt holes so that the caliper assembly physically moves in closer to the centreline of the hub and to b) get the caliper bolts to fit (this needs some of the casting of the inboard piston housing to be relieved so that the hex on the bolt clears the housing - an alternative is to use socket cap Allen bolts but these MUST be high tensile strength, not the dinky toy crap that you can also get). I retained the original bolts and only needed 5-6 mm washers between the hub and caliper in order to centralise the disc in the centre of the caliper so that each piston was protruding equal amounts.

- you'll also need to gtind off some of the material on the 'ears' of the caliper bolt holes on the hub as this means this gives a little more clearance. you only need 1-2 mm off.

Apart from the use of a Metro hose conversion set, stainless pistons, new seals and new inner caliper port seals, that's pretty much all that's needed, apart from some small mods to the disc shield to clear the new caliper and to the brake pads which need the bottom corners just ground off. You dont even really need shields, particularly if your running vented discs.

Make sure you or a reputable workshop feel competant to do this as you dont want to break into any piston porting or hydraulic chambers. Even better if you can perform a hydraulic oil pressure test before fitting.

Good luck.

Richard.

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Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
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Sorry.

Still getting to grips with attaching pics. There's 5 in all.

Richard.

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Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

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Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

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Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

last one

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Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

I badly need four pots but I thought all was lost with my reverse rims.

If you don't have a full machine shop at your disposal you will spend alot of money getting some one else to do it surely. I'm still on 13" wheels due to the metro 4 pots but i keep thinking about going to 10" with minisport calipers and machined down disks, the other option is the Ford Brakes.

Sure that's true about the cost.

But in the true spirit of 'why not have a go', I don't have machining gear and I still achieved it.

The only cost was for my mate to knock up the interference plugs required to re-position the caliper bolt holes.

I did all the work myself using hand machine tools, vernier calipers and pressure test kit I made myself.

Total cost, £35, plus the new bits like pistons, pads, seals, hoses etc. Plus I scrapped a pair of calipers doing some 'cut ups' to see how far I could take the set I eventually worked on.

Richard.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u