Car is just kangarooing!
Turbo Mini Forums

Tried all of turbodaves suggestions to get my car going.

When i took it out of the metro, the metro was playing up and bouncing up the road, like kangarooing when hitting arround 3500 revs. Its like theres a sudden drop in the inlet, as the dump valve "flashes" on and off in spurts. It only really happens under load, like heading up hills. I have changed the turbo over, im now using a known good one, wiht different actuator and manifold too.

Every seal is new on the inlet bits, and the planum and things and all the samco boost hoses are really tight between the turbo and the plenum. I cant hear any leaks anywhere.

The fuel pressure is constant at 4psi.

I am using a dump valve instead of the wastegate now, and the wastegate is tightly sealed. Ive checked all the pipes everywhere and they are all tight. I also renewed the pipe between the regulator and the plenum.

I also tried turbodaves suggestion of getting rid of the balance pipe on the carb, and blocking off both, but made no difference unfortunately.

I also have noticed there may be a bit of clear smoke coming from the breather filter just after starting up, but the car is using no oil at all and no water.

There is also occasionally the problem coming back of smoke appearing from behind the exhaust clamp from the block area, i think may well be the gearbox seal, this is only a tiny bit though and could just be a bit of the sealant or oil on the bulkhead box.

I really need to get to someone who knows about turbos. If anyone is willing to pop over for a quick look then i will pay your fuel. I really would like to also try another carb, to see if thats causing the problem before buying a rebuild kit i cant afford one at the moment.

looks like avonpark is off! hope i make it for next year.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

forgot to mention the reason i took it out the metro was because the oil drain popped off the turbo, and also the inlet manifold was leaking through the gasket, so i put down the kangarooing to that.

Could it just need a tune up? Ive never done tuning though thats all, and theres no garages that i can find that know how mini/metro turbos work!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Could it just be down to tuning? I dont know how to set the advance or things like that.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Im just thinking! What about if i use a decent normal 1.3 carb like in the FAQ

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

feebs i think you should go back to basics with your problem and do things methodically and dont drive it until it ticking over and revving correctly.....start with fuel system,rechecking pressure,connections,blockages,etc ,then go through ignition system,wiring,timing,rotor arm,leads and plugs...dont rush through it and dont drive it until its running correctly as it will end in tears! go through the manual and double check everthing...imo i think you have a big problem in that the car wont stay running and initially i thought ignition but i now think fueling...good luck and take your time checking

regards mark

If im up near you any time feebs ill come check it over.

You can put a normal 1.3 carb in it with a normal pancake filter. See if it runs with that. I did it on mine to run the engine in with no boost.

You cant use the normal carb for a turbo though.

Only driven it a little up the road each time, cant go off the country lane because havent got an MOT yet, but ive been carefull with it.

Im going to go to the mini garage today and get a normal 1.3 1inch3/4 carb and try that. Ill test the fuel pressure again too. I wish i iddnt give away my spare electric ignitions, because i really want to try another coil too!

Are rotor arms that are under the distributor cap the same in normal electronic ignitions? Are they same as normal non-electronic ignitions? I want to try another one too.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

great stuff, ill try that iain! thanks

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

I said keep the coil! lol!

Just change one thing at a time and test as many bits as possible. Saves going round in circles.

Its not likely to be anything internal at all by the sounds of things.

feebs
you problems seem vast !


mark4765 has a good point

A couple of things from me ...

-What does this mean ? "and the wastegate is tightly sealed"
- have you checked your dashpot oil ? I like to use engine oil in the d/p if that is empty or oil is to thin a SU runs like utter CRAP
- Have you got a good earh from the block to the subby/or body or both ( i have both ! )
- Plug gaps ?
- I would also strongly urge u to get hold of a new coil - usually a coil will just either work / or not but on one of my minis it broke down very very slowly and as I had it in a red bull can I could not see the small leak in the coil .... and I had a very similar problem , performance degarding over time until the car was undriveable

Hope I have contributed ....

Ssssteve

TurboLessTosser

Assume he means that the overboost valve in the plenum is sealed.

Feebs, the wastegate is the thing that the actuator rod goes on. It controls boost.

If it is permanently sealed then you would boost out of control! lol!

haha yeah i meant the plenum thing!

I have been looking through tool catalogues at work all afternoon, and found we can buy in lo-guages for fuel and turbo pressure to retail at 11 quid, so i ordered one! Its exactly the same as the gunsons with a different badge on it, i think its a draper one. It will take a few days though to come through. If anyone wants one at the price i get them i can order them.

As for the carb, walked all the way to the mini garage and he didnt have any :(

That coil was the last one iain, but its not the only electric ignition i gave away!

I have also bought loads of small jubilee clips im going to go replace EVERY metal fuel pipe clamp thing to just confirm there are no leaks whatsoever.

The dashpot oil is fine, but it does seem to go down alot. Im using 10/40 in it, when i get the guage in a few days, ill put some 20/50 in the dashpot too and try that.

Is it ok then, if i was to block off the big pipe to the dump valve? That would let me know that its not that causing the problem.

Tomorow, i will buy a new coil.

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

aw mate your having a mare there im only now getting round to taking my motor out hope i dont end up like you, but good luck to you! hope it gets sorted soon with out you spending to much hard earned cash
steve

ill sort it i hope. At least i know its not the turbo, it did the same in the metro :) Sorted the dump valve sticking on problem from reasing a past post, it was the pipe to it, very slight leak, sorted iwth one of the jubilee clips!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Make sure the coil is for 'breakerless' (electronic) ignition...

I'd also treat it to a brand new amplifier unit. these aren't cheap (around ?20), but when they go wrong, they can work, then give up, then work, then give up, etc...

Make sure you clean the body of the dizzy where the module contacts with emery / wet&dry / steel wool, and apply the heat-conductive jelly that should come with the new module. Fail to do this and it'll last just minutes at tickover speed (when it's working the hardest) rather than years!

Good luck dude!

PS - DON'T 'buy' another carb - you might just be buying anothr unknown piece of junk!
A rebuild kit is easy.
I'm sure Iain would offer to rebuild you existing one if you didn't feel up to it! (I'd offer, but i've just got Waaaaaaaay too much on!

Edited by turbodave16v on 12th Jul, 2004.

DAVE!!!

IT WORKS!!!

I recovered one of my old electronic igniotion setups that i gave away, he didnt use it! I put the coil on, but nothing. It was running really badly still. Then i gave up, and was just putting tools away when i saw the printout about your T piece idea agian, so i thought i would give it a shot just for the hell of it.

Put it all together looseley, didnt even bother with jubilee clips, just connected the carb run-on valve outlet, plenum pressure and the top of the regulator wiht a small T piece.

Battery was dead on its arse, but managed to turn over ligthly, really slow, but, it kicked in! the car started! Thing is, it also idled!!!
Is it safe to keep running it like this? Does it mean something is wrong in the carb? I checked everything over, and went for a spin! And it drives! just with the mbc set to 0, it revs right up, drives smooth, doesnt cut out or stall.

Sounds gorgeous too! im well happy with it! If its ok to keep it running with the T piece ill take it for MOT in the morning and see waht it fails on! Avonpark may still be possible!!! When the guage arrives at work ill setup the fuel pressure better, and ill also setup the MBC to run higher.
Well chuffed! Im going to go put the bonnet back on!

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

If it works, leave it.

But recognise the symptoms you've had when it's been approaching 3000 RPM. This was fuel lean-out, because the float chamber was not being presurised for whatever reason.
If that ever happens again, especially whilst on boost, raise your foot off the gas pedal immediately!

Not wanting to offend you, but i wouldn't go over 4psi until you get it on a RR. This is a pretty safe limit. A RR / Dyno is the only way to load the engine and check mixture / advance...

yep, im gonna leave the mbc alone. So getting it tuned up might solve the pressure problem?

Should i buya rebuild kit off iain does it sound liek an internal seal? I could get one with next weeks wage money, other option is to spend it on a carpet set! lol

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

Carpets add weight and make the car go slower, a carb in good condition makes it go faster! lol!

No worries about getting a carb kit though mate, they'll always be available. Mine's been cleaned as we speak.

Well i mstripped and cleaned mine 2 years ago after is first happened. Had the right gasket, everthing. It just didn't work.
Bypassing solved it.

How bizzare!

if it works then no worries, end of the day its just to pressurise the float chamber.

Just a bit more pipework to worry about dont think a bit of plumbing fazes you though does it dave?!? doenst look that way in your engine bay anyway!

Think ill still buy one off you iain if its ok, just for piece of mind i dont know if its ever been refurbished before

Previous Engine: 1040cc Morespeed engine, 1275 turbo head T2 Turbo Mirage Manifolds Megajolt
Previous engine: STD metro turbo, megajolt
Drives: 399bananahp (flywheel) Honda Civic Vtec b18c4 T28 Turbo 1968 Mini

Megajolt maps to download: http://www.jamesfawcett.co.uk/cms/index.ph...&gid=3&Itemid=3

yeah no worries. Let me know when you want it. End of the day they need doing every so often to keep the seals nice and fresh. Im talking a timescale of years mind.
It can cause problems when the seals going hard of the engine running excessively rich. I should know it took me a while to sort that problem!