Running in/starting new engine
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Evening Gents

Im just in the process of putting my engine all back together and was wondering if theres anything i should do now before it goes back in the car. The engine has been fully rebuilt and im now using omega forged pistons, i just need to mate the engine back to the transmission.

How should i go about the initial startup? What oil should i use?

At the moment the ecu map is from when it was a 1275 and last time it ran it was very rich and a bit of a pig when starting from cold.

Im taking the car to emerald to get a running in map written and then it will go back for a full rr/mapping session.

Can i take the car for an MOT before the engine is properly run in? or will the long period of idle cause damage?

I have the link from benross about running in a new engine but its the initial start up that im worried about.

I also have new cam followers fitted that i take it need bedding in?

Cheers for any help
Andy

Edited by Andy500 on 30th Apr, 2008.

Edited by Paul R on 30th Apr, 2008.

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

new lifters = running in.
use plenty of cam lube as well.

after break in, set idle at a sensible speed (i'd use 1300 rpm ish depending on the cam) to keep the loading on the cam nose down.

oh lubricate the piston rings well to avoid dry scruff..

I you have a bit of time between assembly and getting it started (days)you could just spray a bit down the sparkplug holes, leave it a bit to soak the rings..aids lubrication while you crank it to get oil pressure before you let it fire up too..

oil: i use any cheap mineral oil and change it quite soon (300km). then change to 20w50 change that quite soon as well.

really rich and wet fuel mixes will do weird stuff to the oil it seems

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

in short as above .............

run low boost say 7psi MAX and make sure the timings RIGHT and the mixture !!!!!

give it some wellie as the link i gave you
then off to a rolling road for SURE!

this subject is a tad of a puzzler on the initial start up.......anyway
follow the above and work down the advice given

anyone else Please ............. ??

Edited by BENROSS on 1st May, 2008.

Thanks for the help again guys, i cant limit the boost as its running a vmax charger set up. Good idea about the oil in the bores as it will be a while (couple of weeks) yet before i get it started. Should i start it myself or wait untill it goes down to emerald and has had running in map written?
Cheers
Andy

bit bizare maybe but why not fit a carb and manifold and dizzy for the initial starting up and running in the cam procedure. timing is not that critical that way.And you could do the 12-15 times hard acceleration (but low isch engine speed) and rapid throttle closure to do the initial ring bedding in before you change over to the SC and have i set up.

if you trailer it and have to start it up at emerald you will be spending quite a bit of time just starting up which seems a bit expensive.


i'm not trying to be a wiseass but do a triple check if everything, that is not possible in car, has been done. that saves you butting your head against a hard object for a few minutes.

make a list and sign off on it.
this sounds neurotic but you have just invested a small fortune in omega's and it is sooo easy to forget something.

here is some stuff.i'm shure people have some additions. (maybe we could pick everybodies brain and i'd be happy to make it into a proper tick box build sheet..meaning to do that for ages)

-Are you 180% shure the block & oil gallaries are clean

-checked ring gaps? jot them down per hole and ring.

-spanner and torque check?

-bearing clearances. (did you flatten the stamped numbers on backs of the thrusts?).

you can put a small 45 degree chamfer on the edge of the middle bearing shell.that will aid lubrication of the thrustbearing (there are pics in the project smallbore articles by GR at the minimania site)

-end floats and other clearances.

-cam timing
-clear TDC marker fitted ? saves soo much headaches later on

-did you clean and dress the lifters and cam?

- if you use a dizzy (don't think so) what is the lateral clearance of the jackshaft? if it can bob up and down excessively it will change timing quite randomly.very annoying on a NA engine and very probably not good on a blown/FI engine.

Edited by Sir Yun on 1st May, 2008.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Quoted from the Graham Russell article

''Getting enough oil into the thrust bearings is very important too, and there is another trick here. I like to put a slight chamfer, about 1mm on a 45 degree angle, on one edge of one main-bearing shell (photo 9). Do this on the thrust side (the clutch side) of the main bearing, so it can squirt oil onto the thrust bearing. ''


i've done this on a few engines. does not seem to affect oil pressure at all.

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Edited by Sir Yun on 1st May, 2008.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

double post please delete

Edited by Sir Yun on 1st May, 2008.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Not being funny, but whre does the oil from the main bearing go without this mod?

Edited by Sprocket on 1st May, 2008.

to be honest i had not really thought about it in depth. but as GR is generally regarded as a good engine builder i just adopted it.

in both cases it will go sideways around the circumference i guess. the small ''extra oil way'' will just add a bit of oil on top of the thrustbearing where it is usefull to keep the film intact on the thrustbearing which is (i think) a self acting film system (unlike the hydrodynamic bearing of the journal) .

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

does anyone have a mic and a thustbearing at hand?

are the tips thinner than the center ?

if so, the bearing seems to function as a tapered land pad..
(sort of like a water ski). if not that could be very beneficial to investigate

the two vertical slots might simply act as a drain or oil distribution grooves. or function as Rayleigh step bearing (wich would be good as it has a much higher load capacity.

but anyway. calculations assume no side leakage.. but of course there will be leakage and running out of oil is not good for the film keeping the to part from touching.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

so what is being said the the fow of oil through the main bearing is not enough to properly lubricate the thrusts, but does in the main bearing its self. You will never build pressure up between the main bearing and the thrust, simply because of the shape and design of the thrust bearing itself.

This is just my opinion, but i see that this mod will do nothing other than use some capacity of the oil pump. If the oil was fed to the face of the thrust as Fast Carl has done, then results will be seen.

This is mine my own opinion :)

yep but the gooves are in the middle.. what about the part upstream ( where the extra oil is fed). that needs a bit of chouette flow just as well..

reviewed the math but my head wont do it today..

IMHO the extra capacity needed is negligable compared to four piston sprayers.


as ze french saiz..chouette

p.s.

i'm reasonably shure (from what i have heard) that GR does the mod because it proved to keep engines alive.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

i still like the idea of an oil feed through the thrust bearing,

it seems to me that this may push the crank away from the thrust hydraulicly to alow oil to get in there,

I'll work out tonight if the oil pressure is likly to be enough to do this.

Sorry to bring up an old thread. Been searching around and this caught my eye.

I too like the idea of an oil feed through the thrust bearing and was wondering if the crank is hydraulically centralised as you say mini13?

Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

After assembly, I prime the oil pump, by feeding oil into the block outlet while turning the crank backwards. On street car engines I will hook it all up then spin the engine on the starter (no plugs) until I get oil pressure. But on race engines I don't, I use a reversible sump pump. The one I have is a "ShurFlo Flex-Vane", basically its an electric motor driving an oil pump, mounted on top of a bucket of oil. I hook it to a new engine, it pressurizes the oil galleys while I spin the crank on the starter. When the engine starts to pump oil out of the block, then I stop and hook up the engine-pumped oil lines to the block inlet and start the motor.

Interesting idea about feeding the thrust washer. Did he also modify the thrust washer to let the pressure-fed oil get to the thrust face?

theres a good pic in here,

I rembeber roughly working it out in my head but didn't note anything down at the time, IIRC there is nowhere near enough pressure to counteract the presure of the clutch.

just of the top of my head....

50 psi = @35 newtons per sqcm


Force =presure x area
force = 35n sqcm x (1.5x1.5 x pi) 0.7cm sq assuming a 3mm hole

35x0.7 = 25 newtons or 6lb

hmm that doesn't feel right....

any hydraulic experts on here?

will the area of the hole count as the piston area or can the whole thrust face be counted?