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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Intermittent power loss

killer_chiller

63 Posts
Member #: 325
Advanced Member

Hi,

I've got an annoying intermittent fault where I loose all power.
I will do my best to describe what happens:
After driving around to get the engine up to temperature (around 82 degrees), the engine will sometimes start to die - as if it isn't getting any fuel or there is no spark. If you pump the accelerature pedel the engine will pick up slightly, but will eventually stall - which makes me think its a fuel problem.

If you leave the car for a couple of minutes, you can then start the car with no problems and drive, but it feels like the car is holding back, this will then clear and the whole problem will start over again, until you leave the car to cool right down.
If you come onto boost strait after the engine dying the problem will happen faster.
I have noticed while pumping the accelerator pedal as the engine dies a slight clonk / click noise that sounds as if it is coming from the carb. After it has clonked the engine does pickup but the dies.

Now I have had this engine in a different car and it did the same then, since swapping cars the fuel pump and pressure regulator have been changed for different ones.
The fuel filter is full of petrol when the car dies. - so i dont think it is a problem with those.

Some info about my car / engine setup they may help:
Firstly engine is in a clubby, with bulkhead box but no bonnet vents!
9psi boost via a new t3, modified actuator and bleed valve.
intercooler with alluminium feed pipes and dump valve.
8mm fuel feed pipe and 10mm return.
blocked off carb pipe to anti-run on valve.
modified needle.
I have retained the original engine breather ventillation system, and have replaced the red valve with a new one. I have custom air filter the has a pipe for the engine brether pipes etc...

I think it is a problem with the carb - maybee the carb is boiling the fuel due to no bonnet vents - i dont know?
Any thoughts / ideas would be much apreciated.

Cheers!


speedyminidave

71 Posts
Member #: 316
Advanced Member

Staffs

Hi mate, I know the feeling!!! After several attempts and very long saturday afternoons I have not found a solution. Just finished unpgrading fuel pipes to 10mm feed and return. All though problem slightly better there is still a lag when I reach 60mph - car just dies and after waiting a short while all is normal. I am running turbo pump and 6psi. Engine is standard except for dumpvalve and air filter. I would be gratefull if any one could help and suggestions will gladly welcomed.


turbodave16v
Forum Mod

10980 Posts
Member #: 17
***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

I'd put money on the ignition module on the dizzy...
Once these get hot once, they give these symptoms. A new one is around 15 quid. Make sure you clean the dizzy body before fitting, and use a smear of the heat-conductive jelly between the new module and the dizzy - VERY important...

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



SumpNut
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1322 Posts
Member #: 28
Post Whore

Milton Keynes

Make sure you are running your coil @ 12 volts, the ignition modules burn out very quickly if you run them on a 9volts ballast system.

If you dont have a volt tester look for your + cable to the coil, if its pink with "resistive" written on it change it for a new one.


killer_chiller

63 Posts
Member #: 325
Advanced Member

Hi,

Thanks for the replys.

Speedyminidave - sorry to hear you are having the same problems... If I have any luck I will let you know what I did!

TurboDave - Cheers for the info I will give that try, I havent got any heat conductive jelly but I do have some silver paste that you put between a computer processor and its heatsink - do you think that will be ok?

SumpNut - I have checked the wiring and am getting just over 12V from the battery and then around 13.5V when the engine is running at the coil, there are no pink wires, just the normal white and white/black.

Cheers for all the help - well I better get out there and have a look at that dizzy then!


Jimster
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9408 Posts
Member #: 58
455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

the heat cunductive paste will do great, same stuff really

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


Carl

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2924 Posts
Member #: 95
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liverpool-on-sea

where do you get the dizzy modules from for 15 quid when i foned up rover they told me 45quid?

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


iain
Site Admin

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8506 Posts
Member #: 16
Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

Im getting a price on some this week from lucas as i want a spare. found out the part number now so should be straight forward.


billydude

291 Posts
Member #: 48
Senior Member

Leicester

I got mine for ?20 from halfords


killer_chiller

63 Posts
Member #: 325
Advanced Member

Hi all,

Right I have changed the module on the side of the dizzy, but unfortunately the problem hasn't gone *frown*, I will try a different ignition coil tonight - just to eliminate that from the list of possible broken bits!

When the fault starts to happen the car holds back then as you push or pump the pedal I'm getting what sounds like a back fire or spitting noise in the carb - I assume this could be two different things, unburnt fuel igniting or possibly the dashpot sticking?
I don't think it is cam timing / igniting timing as it would do it all the time + the engine doesn't over heat.

I have read some info on the forums about the pipe between the carb and manifold not being the right size on part throttle therefore causing fuel starvation, this could be my problem but I'm not to sure as the problems seem to have developed over a period of time, and wasn't present during rolling road and for about a month after.

My carb must have done about 110,000 miles by now!! - Do you think it could just be tired and need a retiring?

Cheers for the help!


iain
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8506 Posts
Member #: 16
Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

if you want a rebuild kit, give me a shout.

?43 including the post.


killer_chiller

63 Posts
Member #: 325
Advanced Member

hi iain,

Will try a spare carb that i have first if it cures the problem i will order a rebuild kit from you for my other carb.
I take it that i need to send you a cheque. Is the price including postage?
Also what parts do u get in the kit - is there a new float?

Cheers.


iain
Site Admin

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8506 Posts
Member #: 16
Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

here's a pic of the kit:



no float though. Basically all seals, jet, throttle shaft, bearings, float valve etc.
yep, thats an all in price including UK post


killer_chiller

63 Posts
Member #: 325
Advanced Member

Do you know anyone who that will chemical clean my carb?

Cheers

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