1071 Crank?
Turbo Mini Forums

Anyone got any ideas what one of these would be worth? And a 1071 block - only got 3 rods tho.

I am trying to decide if it is worth selling these parts to fund another project!

Thanks

use it don't sell it!

16v turbo screamer.

These are worth a fair bit, i would hang onto it if i were you. They will only get rarer and rarer!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

I recently sold a 1274 S at a worn 20-20 regrind crank on ebay for 300 quid.

Any example builds on here using the crank and a 1275 block? What rods etc would I need. I was going to use the pennies to fund some of a 1.6 vauxhall conversion. Was getting a little bewildered at the amount of money I was going to need to spend to get a good going A. Open to suggestions.

Thanks

I would flog the 1071 bits seperatly on ebay,

you should get about £300 for the crank and possibly similar for the block, maybe more.

then buy a standard 1275 metro engine and use that as a basis, or just get an engine kit from avonbar or somewhere.

If you do use the 1071 you will need to source another S rod which wiill be hard to find singularly unless you buy a new one from minispares. Also you will probably need to get an new set of pistons.

I thought I might be able to use longer rods in a taller 1275 block - I have a couple of these. I read an article on it somewhere but cant for the life of me find it again. I did see that minispeed were selling single rods for 85 ea.

IIRC the 1071 has std length rods and a shorter block, a 970 has longer rods and a shorter block.

I think the older non A+ block can be skimmed enough to use with the 1071 crank, I seem to remember Vegard mentioning this at some point.

do an advanced search on e-bay for past sales. A crank in 'good' order went for £180 and a block for £320 in recent listings

thats cheap for a 1071 crank,

right after I sold mine i saw a 1071 crank go for over 300 on a big regrind, a little while ago a std std one with good journels went for about 500.

Edited by Joe C on 18th Jun, 2008.

Skim a 1300 block and use it :)

Would I not need to skim a mamoth amount of a 1300 block? I must admit the cash is tempting!

mamoth yes but doable,

about 6.6mm by my calcs

Then I would be into funny pushrod lenghts etc. And start creeping back into expensive land. I just cant help feelin that every time I decide to do something with the A series it becomes a bit painful on my wallet. I can fit a vauxhall engine with 110ish BHP for little over a grand an still be reliable. What can I do with the A series for the same money. Ok sure I can build an engine with similar power but now I am banging my head against a wall with gearbox issues etc. My heart wants to keep an A series in so that my car is still a mini and not a kit car (as I see it) but my tight budget is saying otherwise.

Mark

Just whack a near standard turbo engine in and 110 banannas is no problem.

Bang, sorted, kept the a-series with decent, reliable power for under a grand:)

Edited by minimole23 on 19th Jun, 2008.

well, I have a 1191 cc engine with a south african 1071 crank (70.2 mm stroke) and 73.5 mm powermax pistons. I used an old allegro block and skimmed 7.0 mm of it. No head gasket problem with that. The head has been skimmed LOADS aswell, leaving me with 13.5 cc chambers:)

small bore push rods are shorter,

anyone know how much by?

1071 and 970 pushrods are basicly small bore pushrods. Cheap as fish n' chips.

miniminor do you know what sort of power you are getting? and can it be done with a A+ block as I have a couple of these.
Does anyone know of any good articles on pushrod geometry? Not just for this but for my current engine also.

A+ is OK. Miniminor's engine pushed out 93hp if I'm not mistaken. That's at the crank.

As long as nothing binds up, valve train geometry wont really matter, apparently the effort involved in setting up perfect valve train geometry is not worth the results you get from doing it. Thats what Visard recons.

Just make sure nothing binds up. I try and set the rocker so that the pivot ball sits in the push rod is almost straight. I had to fit a 2mm spacer under the rocker posts to achieve this, but that was with a skimmed head and standard push rods. I think that is as far as you should try and go with valve train geometry.

And yes, the 970/1071 blocks were pretty much the same hight as the 998 blocks, so there is no reason whatsoever that 998 rods wont do the job.

Oh and I have a cooper s 1275 +20 block, cooper s rods and +30 flat top pistons. I just need a 1071 crank, and I will just squeeze into class A at avon with a 10k rpm 16v screamer

Edited by Sprocket on 19th Jun, 2008.

I have used 998 push rods in mine, and Vegard is about right on the power qoute. It is VERY driveable despite the miglia cam though!

hmm. I still cant decide.

Sprocket I will let you know if I decide to sell.

Anyone want dibs on the block?