Only two gears !
Turbo Mini Forums

Am i right in assuming i have put the selector rod in 180 degrees out seems like i only have two gears and hardly any neutral .:$

baseplate on the gear lever assembly in wrong way round?

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Ive never had the base plate off could it be that ? is it possible to spin the selector rod 180degrees with no pin in thereby not being able to select gears.?

if you havnt touched the gearbox (removed teh end covers from teh diff) you should only be able to move the selector rod within its window of operation. can you select gears wit hthe lever disconected and mole grips on teh selector rod?

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

As per evolution but, even if you have had the selector mechanism apart, it is impossible to get the selector shaft 180 out - the window of operation is determined by the interlock tube (which the selector shaft can only fit inside one way) and an actual window in the tube which the detent tube/ball/spring push into (behind the diff end/side cover).

What is possible, if you had the tube/ball/spring out (to defeat the interlock to undo the big nuts), is one of the bell cranks can disengage from the selector fork which will prevent the selector shaft from swing cleanly and not give you those two gears.

But this is usually dead obvious as you rebuild.

EDIT - what I said above is assuming you rebuilt the gearbox, if you just had the external linkage off, ignore what I said.

Edited by Rod S on 14th Jul, 2008.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Sorry to keep asking questions but if the rod change unit had been disconnected from engine would it be possible ive done anything backwards, i had the short shift lever in before and it was fine tried putting it back on this time and the alloy housing of the lever doesnt go down far enough onto housing of the unit to screw up properly ive heard about taking off bottom plate and spinning the eye?

If it is one of those cheap short shift levers, that would be your problem.

The circlips are usually too big and foul the mechanism.

Throw it away and get a KAD one.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Take the gearstick out and look which way the eye is? Is the eye right at the top or at the bottom? It should be at the bottom.

Also bin the quick shift as above, I had a fake kad one and couldnt get all gears.

Edited by MikeRace on 14th Jul, 2008.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

it`s a genuine kad lol with lift up reverse plunger and the eye is at the bottom ! damn was hoping it was that anything else to check ?

Have you tried selecting gears at the gearbox?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

yep i did it when we were running up the engine just to see if we could get them all , its weird i seem to get two gears forward and backwards perfectly but no neutral atall? i put the standard lever back in couldnt fit it properly as the pin for the clamp isnt there but it felt easier to move about could be just because its a new box?

Had the gearbox been rebuilt (even if not by you) ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

yeah but as isaid it seemed fine at the time got all gears. anything else i could try?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

When Mike said " have you tried selecting all the gears at the gearbox" you said you only got two forward (and reverse).
But then you say it seemed fine, got all the gears.....
Was one with the linkage connected but trying at the gearbox, or what was the difference?
To try at the gearbox you really need the linkage disconnected and just use molegrips on the end of the shaft (carefully).
If it was a rebuild, from where?

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Cheers for your replies guys will give it a go will also get the unit off and put a punch in the roll pin slot and go through the gears that way to make sure nothings happened in transit :)

yeah it was tested with grips at the engine with linkage disconnected which was fine then driven home in van and put in car then tried in situ with linkage etc. the first test had all gears this was without linkage second time was at my garage with everything attached

Edited by greymini78 on 14th Jul, 2008.

Do u think its worth taking the whole assembly and starting again checking for anything that could be catching? could i try it without bottom plate on or is this not advised?

I cant see how it can make difference, start by using a standard gear stick. Then go to the box end of things.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Right quick update guys it works spot on with the standard stick , and i mean spot on . to be honest the only reason i bought the kad was because it looked nicer and had less throw but to be honest with this new box it feels nice with a standard stick, and also like alot of peeps on here have said it only really makes a difference if track racing etc

P.S Thanks to everyone on the forum who has helped me get this little bugger back on the road , your help is very appreciated i will post some piccies soon.