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fastcarl

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leeds/wakefield.

http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/carl1...okengearbox.jpg

bloody camera ran out of batteries,

but those who say the diff case say the big crack run along the top of the diff housing and down the sides in front of the output side plates,
i suspect the centre web has let go first then allowed the pinnion to climb the crown wheel excessively to the point where it barely engaged breaking off one tooth from the pinnion and getting out of sync , then jamming up and pushing the whole diff assembly out the rear, . bending the mainshaft in the process, as it sat when i split the box the CWP did not engage at all so the mainshaft has lifted up in the box, evident by the big crack in the web. both pinnion and crown wheel are shagged lol,

gears spin ok so i'll assume they are the best,

my problem is its an A series box, but i only have A plus casings left . .

i know its been discussd before , but can the A set go into the A plus box, discounting the drops.

not as bad as i'd expected, but still a pain to fix in 4 weeks, as i need to modify the box for the gear linkage,

Edited by fastcarl on 3rd Aug, 2008.

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miniminor63

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that link doesnt work


wolfie

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i can sort an A case

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Pull you finger out and get it sorted

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nice picture mate, sorry she broke. That must be what grip does i guess?

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On 14th Jul, 2008 fastcarl said:


my problem is its an A series box, but i only have A plus casings left . .

i know its been discussd before , but can the A set go into the A plus box, discounting the drops.


Easily. Apart from the drops the casings are basicly identical.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Star Mag

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I have stripped a few high mileage a plus gearboxes with cracks in the same place, although they dont have anywhere near the power of your car! There is an casing in the forsale section.

Edited by Star Mag on 14th Jul, 2008.


BENROSS

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Richie

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talk about timing matey.

i have spare remotes they are yours if they are helpful to the cause.


is the main box / casting wrecked ? would the web not tig weld ? or is it not worth the risk. its a shame you cant get billet casings :)
Richie

Edited by Richie on 15th Jul, 2008.



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On 17th Aug, 2009 Jay#2 said:
I doubt I'll be dipping into the 13's like you did though!






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Carl do you need a case, i have a few empty A+ ones and i might have an A box somewhere, ill check tonight.

Edited by MikeRace on 15th Jul, 2008.

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Richie

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Iam sure with all the forum users we have here at TM a few folk may be able to donate something to someone who more often than not is one of the first to reply when folk are asking for help, like i say i have remotes but no box, i will ask about up here for you too. nothing but FOC though :)



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On 17th Aug, 2009 Jay#2 said:
I doubt I'll be dipping into the 13's like you did though!






Vegard

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You may weld, but you'll have to machine the casing where the bearing fits afterwards. Worth the hassle? Also, the layshaft holes become fucked when this happens.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Anton

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i also have a spare a in the garage if needed


fastcarl

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leeds/wakefield.

cheers for the offer fella's but i have a few A + casing myself, and after a chat with arich at minispares north, i will be using on of these,

Richie, if i could show you the damage you aggree its a non reapairable job,

basically the case is FUBAR.

ordered a new CWP, mainshaft, and a pinnion support spedo drive housing,

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stevieturbo

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COuld any sort of additional webbing/bracing be built into teh box ?

Either by welding, or drilling/tapping steel inserts ?

Or can anyone out there fab up a new billet casing ? lol

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Sprocket

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Four bolt retainer.

I've heard about those *oh well*

Edited by Sprocket on 15th Jul, 2008.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
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Yep I agree with TD........


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Carl - I think your problem is (as you rckon) that you split the casing first - and I have a feeling that with a high-powered Rear engine setup, this could happen again with too much weight shift to the rear.

On 15th Jul, 2008 fastcarl said:

ordered a new CWP, mainshaft, and a pinnion support spedo drive housing,


Those pinion supports like the KAD one can do more damage than good - if the casing flexes (which it does) then it is no real problem if the shaft (s) flexes with it - so long as the angular deflection of the bearing can be tolerated.
But if you now try preventing the flex through the shaft, And still have a flexible case around the MS main bearing, you're going to seriously over-load your bearings. I've spent a lot of time in bearing and case analysis doing this - it is a balancing act between shaft and casing stiffness, and bearing radial capacity and angular misalingment.

I know there isn't a whole lot of space for doing this, but if you could get another piece in the casing which sits in the 'empty' side of the centre wall and is fixed along the sides and bottom, this would stiffen up the case a treat - rather than complicating matters by turning it into a 3-wall mainshaft.
Maybe welding in some 3/4" thick blocks to the surfaces, then machining them square and bolting in a centre wall through these blocks is more feasible than a fixed piece?

Finally - I don't know how much room is on top of the web (crank clearance) but if you could form and weld in a 1" x 1/2" strip of quality allloy over the top of the web, that'd also do wonders for the stiffness.

I do feel you'll be doing this again before too long otherwise.

Edited by turbodave16v on 15th Jul, 2008.

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Perhaps your ideas Dave are something Carl can use when preparing another gearbox casing for the rear engine with time on his hands, at the moment I'm sure his aim is to get it back together as quickly as possible ready for MITP.


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Jason G

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Be great to see it running after the probs Carl had last year at MITP. :)

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PaulH

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well Looks like the failure here has been caused by the bearing retainer bolt most likely when the drilling was made a small crack was left when the torque came on the gears they tried to force each other apart putting a massive tensile load on the piece of alloy joining one side of the box to the other, as far as I am aware these holes are only drill using a twist drill and are not reamed I have seen many failures in alloy caused by non reaming of holes.
Just to reiterate what Dave has said be careful if this idea of a pinion support how much supporting do you think it will be able to do at the distance it is from the pinion from what I have seen they cause just what Dave has described a rigidity in the main shaft and output shaft that leads to bearing failure as the box flexes.
Tough chips,
regards,
Paul.

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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TurboHarry

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I had the same problem several times with the 4 bolt bearing retainer casings - I switched to 3 bolt casings, polished the web above the bearing and the problem disappeared....

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fastcarl

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leeds/wakefield.

well. i finally got a box stripped out,

modified it for thr front exit input rod, also welded up the centre web to add a bit more strength. left the big bearing and layshaft in place just incase anything moved, but once cooled down they removed easy peasy so no real distorsion.


carl

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Joe C

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will be interesting to see if it holds,
this isnt the fist casing that has cracked on you is it carl?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



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fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

no.

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the lay shaft is different from a to a+ which means you would need to use a a+ laygear which in turb you would need to run a a+ gear kit.

why cant you use a a+ gear kit carl.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

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