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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Decompression Plates?

lockfast

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Aberdeen

I know alot of people dont like them and I am not a huge fan myself. But I have just bought a 2nd hand supercharger kit and want to stick it on my existing engine and have a play around while the weather is good and do a proper build in the winter. What I want to know is does any one know a good supplier or ones to avoid? Looking at some of the pics I have seen some are stainless and some are just steel. What is best? Does anybody want to sell me one?

Supercharger kit is suck through 8psi

Thanks


Mark


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

stainless is going to be more heat resistant, doubt it will really make much difference unless the gasket fails,

apart from that there's probably not a lot in it.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

alter the combustion chamber shape to the right size and CCs its cheaper and the right way *Yes* *wink*

Edited by BENROSS on 24th Jul, 2008.






lockfast

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Aberdeen

I dont want to alter my cylinder head just yet till I have a little play around with the charger setup. My head is a well sorted race job. Not even sure if I will use it on this engine on get another one.


turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

Stainless is better, but I'd happily use mild steel. Thing to watch is that it's been nicely cut - ie no jagged edges on the four large holes to make hot-spots.

So long as you know it's not ideal, and you're willing to accept that, then crack on.

Only other thing to consider is that your valve geometry is all to cock. Longer pushrods, or an insert dropped into your followers will help return matters to a sensible level. Again though if you don't want to do all this - it will work, just not as good as it could be.

All in all - it will make more power than if you leave it with one eadgasket and don't fit the supercharger - even considering all the shortcomings of this less than ideal method of achieving the end result.

Echo what Ben says though - do it right come the winter*smiley*

Edited by turbodave16v on 24th Jul, 2008.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



robert

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uranus

im running a mild steel spacer plate on my bike ,500cc running 15 psi boost 130 bhp odd ,no problems in 6 years .

i dont undestand why the valve geometry should change , if the rocker post and the valve top are in the same place as they were, then a few turns on the tappet adjuster would put it all back where it was ?

(probably being hopelessly ignorant here )

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

Im in the same school of thought as you on this Robert, but someone please feel free to enlighten me further.
Shane


GTM Turbo

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Doncaster

Robert

What you suggest would probably work OK on an overhead cam engine but the A-Series has push-rods which won't get any longer and once you have added a spacer plate the point on which the top of the push-rod has to act is higher up hence a change in geometry.
As TD suggested, longer rods or amending the cam follower would alleviate the problem, but all told it is a less than perfect solution.


turbodave16v
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Draw out a rocker on a piece of paper and you'll understand. The pivot points are the key - and for a roller rocker they are the axis of the roller, the axis of the rocekr shaft, and the centre of the ball on the adjuster. For non roller nose rockers, the pivot is the wiper pad.

All this makes a difference.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



lockfast

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Aberdeen

The decompression plate will actually bring my rocker geometry back to normal (oer neear normal) as my block had been decked I was running with spacers under the rocker pedestals.

Thanks for the remnder though! I might have just bolted it back together as it was.


robert

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uranus


probably being totally fik here ...

so the axis of the roller has stayed the same ,
the axis of the rocker shaft has stayed the same ,
how does moving the contact point of the tappet adjuster 1.5mm
(or whatever the spacer is )
further down, have any effect ?

( unless your all talking about the increase in triangulation between the lifter ,rocker boss where the threaded adjuster goes in ,and the ball on the end of the adjuster ,which would increae rocker ratio on the upstroke then decrease it on the down stroke ,but all minimally .) :$

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


turbodave16v
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On 25th Jul, 2008 lockfast said:
The decompression plate will actually bring my rocker geometry back to normal (oer neear normal) as my block had been decked I was running with spacers under the rocker pedestals.


That's sorted then!

Edited by turbodave16v on 25th Jul, 2008.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

On 25th Jul, 2008 robert said:

probably being totally fik here ...

so the axis of the roller has stayed the same ,
the axis of the rocker shaft has stayed the same ,
how does moving the contact point of the tappet adjuster 1.5mm
(or whatever the spacer is )
further down, have any effect ?

( unless your all talking about the increase in triangulation between the lifter ,rocker boss where the threaded adjuster goes in ,and the ball on the end of the adjuster ,which would increae rocker ratio on the upstroke then decrease it on the down stroke ,but all minimally .) :$


If it was 1:1 ratio, it wouldn't make any difference. However, the rockers do have a ratio difference, and hence the 'triangulation' you describe does alter.
Put simply, the way to optimise the lift over the range, is to set the follower such that it is at half of whatever full lift is. Now you need to set a line drawn between the three pivot points on the rocker to be perfectly horizontal. The top of your valve is a good a datum as any, and you raise or lower the middle pedastal to adjust the height.
Now you adjust the length of your pushrod to suit. Alternativly you could shorten a little off the top of your valve, but this is not really the ideal as you'd need to modify all your valves - and all future replacements.

As it is - you can't get adjustable pushrods for the A-series, so instead you get a pushrod that is the right length - or do my trick (Copyright © 2002 - LOL) of spacers in the followers. You then use the adjuster to 'fine tune' the installation.

As you know your Rover motors - you migth have heard the GrpA vitesses had adjustable pushrods which were fitted to re-optimise the geometry with all the other changes they made.

Edited by turbodave16v on 25th Jul, 2008.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



robert

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uranus

yes dave my v8 in the tvr has kenne bell adjustable pushrods .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

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