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Hi there

Heres some pics of pot_dan crank.



This is as a result of the flywheel bolt coming undone. Which I've never seen before. He complained of clutch slip. So this weekend i went over and pulled it apart with him and this is what we found.




Flywheel center...
There was plenty of end float due to the thrust washer and c clip in the bottom of the transfer case.

What do you guys think. Just trying to offer dan some ideas as to his next plan of action.

IMO its an engine rebuild job. maybe even a new crank.

As ever his budget is tight and its his only mode of transport.

So he needs a plan quick smart.

Over to you guys.

Si

Edited by Si P on 15th Sep, 2008.

I drill holes in everything..!

Also flywheel face was well cooked to. So it may also be toast.

I drill holes in everything..!

does dan have the money to reduildm
if not ,

time to remedy the best you can,

first off , dont put than flywheel centre back on , its fooked,

the flywheel also looks US.

are those marks proud of the surface, if so,the crank may well save,

take off the idler to give you mre room to work,
get yourself some small lapping/linishing stones, . that place behind the cop shop in Keighly does them , about 6" long 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick, use these to file down the tail working around it as you go to try remove any of the pits shown,
once all the high spots have been removed get youself another verto centre and lap it in with some course grinding paste, there every chance it will come up half decent,
.
if the centre has to be lapped on so far as there is no overhabg on the crank tail then your buggered , unless you grind some clearance off the end,

its worth a go imho,

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

i think the flywheel and crank are fubar tbh mate you could try have the taper machined again but every 1mm taken of the taper it brings the flywheel 4mm closer to the engine block iirc and basicaly its not worth it that crack on the fly wheel face to me looks asif the clutch has been slipping big time and the heat has cracked it,

i have heard of a sleeve that is machined to fit between the flywheel and crank but it will have to be a custom jobbie and how much £££? will it be worth bodging it for x amount (if it could be done) as a posed to a straight swop-out

and i have heard of a flywheel bolt comming undone (did on my turbo motor) but i cought it before it fully unwound (whilst changing the oil pump that went awol) it had loctite on it too... never used it since on the crank bolt never had a problem :)


edit: carl beat me...good idea with trying to lap it in

Edited by Brett on 15th Sep, 2008.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Cheers guys.

Carl I've got a verto centre he can have. I'll have a go at cleaning it up as you suggest and post pics of what it looks like. Then you can judge if its a go'er or not.

Thanks again.

P.S Dan's just moved hence why i'm posting for him.

Si

Edited by Si P on 15th Sep, 2008.

I drill holes in everything..!

yeah lap it in, get it done up tight and it may hold.

i've done one before that looked goosed on a pretty much std turbo engine and it was fine.

if not, sure a half decent crank can only be a few quid? i've sold a few for £25 that would go straight into something like that.

IMO, if you can lap a spare flywhel onto that crank end such that you get a nice matt grey finish everywhere that isn't pitted or grooved it should hold. The trick will be to get rid of the raised burrs and high spots first with something as brutal as a file otherwise lapping will take forever.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I,d lap it in and use Loctite and a very large bar to tighten it down.

i hate to be the negative one, but ive chanced using a crank that was in similar condition to that, dressed the tail to remove the high spots etc and tried my luck

in about 100 miles my flywheel had fretted to fuck again and welded itself back onto the crank, was a brand new ultralite too that id just had balanced with all the other bits so i was very hacked off

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Clean it, torque it (150 ftlbs), lock it.

It looks as though you have good taper surface either side of the damage area, if the damage is up to the egde of the taper you would be unwise to re-fit this item.

A bit of advice I was given by a friend was that after boring cooling holes in his cluch cover he never suffered from a clutch assembly locking onto his crank again.

Own the day

http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p...3587&lastpost=1

£30....just a thought.

I had my old flywheel spin on my crank, It wrecked the flywheel but left the excess metal on the crank. I did as the others said, filed down the high spots with a very fine file and then polished it with wet and dry with wd40 until my new flywheel sat on to snuggly! It took a while but saved rebuilding the engine! I also loctited the bolt in! Should be fun when it comes to taking it apart!

Own the day

Might be able to sell my original crank if he's stuck was going to use it as a spare tho

As you have to get going asap, its worth a try to remove the high spots with a file, and then lap an alternative flywheel on. For our race engines I always lap flywheels on until there is a perfect dull grey finish (check how close it gets to the primary gear - don't let it pinch) I never use a lock washer, but always loctite the bolt. However after torquing up to 150lbs, I smack the socket with a lump hammer and then re-torque the nut - it always goes a biit further!! keep doing this untill you get no more movement in the nut. Never had a problem with this approach. Philtune.

that doesn't work, happened to me and i lapped it in and after a few months back to the same thing, "clutch slip"

Also consider putting the flywheel in the oven to heat it and open the taper before whacking it back on. I do this when I fit the flywheel, I now understand some RX7 guys do this as well as they have a taper on the end of their crank as well (so some guy at work told me).

I do what phil says every time I fit a flywheel, never had a problem yet.

i do what dave says, seems to work pretty good,

or go the whole hog, dress the crank with a file, then lap it, then put the flywheel in an oven, then torque/threadlock and hit with hammer then retorque :)

Edited by evolotion on 20th Sep, 2008.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Just an update for you.

Pot_dan's car is now a goer..!

New flywheel pressure plate and clutch, also a new thrust bearing.

Followed Carl's advice and cleaned up the crank tail as best as possible, Made a tad harder by the fact the engine was still in the car.

Crank cleaned up with file then lapped new flywheel in. No high spots but still some quite bad pitting. But that was never going to come out unless it was machined, And then no doubt it would end up under size.

Flywheel heated up then bolted up with a bit of loctite added for good measure. And so far so good.A nice smooth clutch and vibration free.

So fingers crossed it should last him until rebuild funds arrive. Thanks for all the advice and tips guys.

I'm sure Dan will post when he gets connected on Friday.

Si

I drill holes in everything..!

Heres some pics of what the crank tail ended up like.



still some pitting but no high spots.



Si

I drill holes in everything..!

fingers crossed it holds to

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"