mety turbo boost ecu wiring?
Turbo Mini Forums

as title,
I'm looking for a schema or explanation to wire an mety boost control ecu
fabrice

?
none here know a little bit more about this?
I wired the green wire to the solenoid, white to + black to chassi and black/white to dizy
but it doesn't seem to damp any boost above my base setting.

i think it needs an rpm signal too.

i'll have a look at a metro wiring diagram if i get chance.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

yes , that's the b/w that goes to coil?
do you know if it does shut the solenoid when it sens more that 7 psi?

This is the diagram for the molex plug, which should help.

thanks,
that's what I was looking for.
my live feed is white, but everything else is correct,
do you have an idea about why it doesn't bleed, I connected a light to the green wire to boost solenoid, it does light on, but only when I lift the throttle,
does it sens boost, and as why boost set is above 7 psi it doesn't open the solenoid, and then I lift the , throttle , it doesn't see bosst (I connect it to the vaccum side) and then open the port ?
thanks fabrice

I believe that it senses RPM and closes the solenoid below 4000 rpm.

EDIT:Corrected - I blame the welding fumes that I've breathed in today.

Edited by Paul S on 27th Sep, 2008.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Paul, it does also sens boost,
rev signal is ok, I connected a mbc and a one way valve to it so it doesn't sens more than 7 psi.
any idea?

It senses RPM and boost (boost pressure in the plenum, NOT manifold pressure!). Above about 4000rpm it starts to modulate the solenoid open and closed, which bleeds air from the wastegate (the boost solenoid is always closed except when modulating). The boost will rise steadily to 7psi at about 6200rpm, it doesn't change in one go from 4 psi to 7 psi.

I did a write up on another forum about how it works, but you need to be registered to view, so I have copied it below.

"MetroTurbo" said:
The Metro Turbo boost modulation system is a simple, yet sophisticated (for the early eighties, anyway!), means of controlling the boost pressure of the turbocharger and it’s operation is often misunderstood.

What does it do – well, quite simply, it increases boost from the set wastegate actuator pressure of 4 psi, up to 7 psi. This is done gradually from 4500rpm to 6000rpm.

Why design and install extra equipment to increase the boost to 7 psi, when a different wastegate actuator could be fitted so that the turbo always produces 7 psi? This is what the BL design engineers wanted to do, and if it had have been done the Metro Turbo would have had blistering performance. The good old A Series engine was more than capable of coping with the demands that 7 psi of boost would put upon it. The problem was the gearbox. With boost levels of 7 psi, the reliability of the gearbox dropped below that which is expected of a production car. One aspect of a turbocharged engine is that they have a tendency to produce massive mid range torque figures, and the Metro was no exception. It was this mid range torque that was causing the gearbox problem. The boffins at BL determined that to maintain long term reliability, the gearbox could cope with no more 95ft lb of engine torque. Just to be on the safe side, it was decided that the engine would produce no more than 85ft lb.

With the boost at 7 psi, well over 95ft lb of torque was produced between about 4000 and 4500rpm. The idea of the boost modulator was to limit the mid range torque. This is represented in the graphs below.



So, how is this done? The wastegate is set at approximately 4 psi. Without the modulator, the boost would never rise above 4 psi and the performance of the car would be noticeably less. The wastegate senses when to open by a pipe that is connected to the turbocharger housing (on the outlet of the compressor), to the wastegate actuator diaphragm. It is the turbo outlet pressure that operates the actuator, and opens the wastegate. Also connected to the pipe to the wastegate actuator is the boost solenoid valve. The boost solenoid valve is part of the boost modulating system, and is directly connected to the ECU. We shall come back to it in a moment. These components can be seen on the diagram below.



The ECU is an electronic device that measures engine RPM, and the boost level in the plenum chamber, and then operates the boost solenoid as required (it also operates the LED or LCD boost gauge, where fitted). At about 3300rpm, the boost has reached approx 4psi, and the wastegate begins to open. Once the engine rpm has reached 4500rpm, it has passed the point at which it will produce excessive torque if the boost were 7 psi, so the boost modulation comes in to play. The modulator starts to fool the wastegate into thinking the boost level is dropping, so the wastegate starts to close. This is done by rapidly opening and closing the boost solenoid mentioned earlier, which bleeds some of the signal air from the wastegate allowing it to start closing, and the boost begins to rise. The boost level steadily rises with the engine rpm until there is approx 7psi of boost at about 6000rpm.

it does see plenum pressure in genuine form, in my form it does see manifold one (because it is reduced regarding plenum one).
now using a mbc to reduce the boost that it does sens, I'll put it back to plenum, but I can't see where this does makink malfunction.
Solenoid tested, and when actuated with a switch, boost climb right to 20 psi,
rev sign tested: ok,
earth: ok
live feed :ok
green wire: nothing, from 4000 to 7000 rpm with boost signal as low a 3 psi.
knackered ecu?
whatever, many thanks this post is helpfull.
fabrice

The ecu is normally bomb proof, but it could be knackered. A digital voltmeter might not pick up the voltage changes from the green wire, as it may be too quick for it read, but as you have proved the solenoid works there is only the ecu left.

I'll test another one as soon as I put my hands on.

That explains why mine only produces 3psi, thought the ECU's were bomb proof. I thought that the Metro turbos were limited to 3psi but could be run at 7-10psi at your own cost.

Looks like I was wrong and possibly need to change the ECU. There is a company not too far from me that should be able to bench check these if there is interest ill make some enquiries.

I have a bleed valve fitted to mine so I will be manualy adjusting my boost for the time being.

I will fit my remainding ECU's and find out which if any still work if I have a spare ill post up.

Own the day