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Paul S

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Off to the machine shop this afternoon with a pile of parts if Sturgeo stops coughing and sneezing.

I've compiled a Spec as attached. This is for a 200hp drag car.

Have I missed anything, particularly with regard the block/crank/rods/pistons.

Thanks


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Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

i wouldnt bother with the gearbox fixings personally. It doesnt leave much meat left in the gearbox flange and i would prefer it there.

I use Unbrako caphead bolts and wellseal and not had a problem at all.

Edited by iain on 3rd Oct, 2008.


Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

DO you really need the 4 bolt strap and cross drilled crank?

It might save a few pennies that can go to use elsewhere


Paul S

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Good points. The spec is a bit overkill.

I'm sure "The Bank of Mum & Dad" will appreciate this.

Should I be spending the money on under crown cooling jets?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

yes

or drilled holes in the oilways pointing in the right directions


Jimster
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455bhp per ton
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don't see the point in 11 stud'ing the head, I've never done it, and never had problems

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

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Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

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I once blew my head gasket out of the side where the 11th stud lived

Since drilling the block for it the problem has never returned


PaulH

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I up rate the gear box fixings to M8 I have had gearbox bolt failure it is a very worth wile process although I do see your point Iain, the bolts are just not capable of holding a gearbox with more than 160hp It may hold together but when you go to strip the motor after a hard season you will more than likely find that some of the bolts have stretched or worse pulled although using a sealant like well seal will stop the leak it is not fixing the problem that causes the leak and also can contribute to gearbox failure as far a meat in the gear box flange when you increase to M8 you only have to overbore the gearbox bolt holes by 0.9mm as the holes are all ready 7.2 and 8.1mm will fit an M8 cap bolt,
all IHMO backed up by my own experience of course.

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

______________________________________________________


Sprocket

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ARP Mians studs/ bolts are not required either. The Standard A+ bolts are more than up to the job. Just dont use any of the crap bolts you get with the caps/ straps

Im not sure how opening out the holes in the gearbox case to even 8.5mm would weaken it to the point of failure *oh well* if you do go for larger fixings use M8 cap heads. Much easier to source quickly, and cheaply *wink*

Edited by Sprocket on 3rd Oct, 2008.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Turbo Phil

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For the cost of two studs & drilling the head & block i'd go for the 11studs, it can't do any harm. The same goes for the undercrown jets, maybe not essential, but cheap & imo worthwhile for the cost involved.

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Paul S

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Sturgeo has just made the point that we may want to convert to a K1100 head at some point in the future. Maybe quite soon if we cannot get the Siamese code working properly.

So we may be looking at higher power and revs. Probably best to build in the extra strength now rather than later.

So I'm still undecided about the main strap or 4-bolt.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


TurboDave16V
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I am sure that Matt Woods told me arounf 4 years ago that he still uses the stock A+ studs on the engine to trans.

I don't know if he still is - maybe he will follow up with some info.

One thing is for sure - a 1/4" UNF cap-head has almost the same strength as a standard grade 5/16 - so if you go all the way to putting 5/16 in there and put standard bolts in, you really have wasted time and money over a set of 1/4" cap heads. That is a fact...

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



TurboDave16V
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Oh, I would do the undercrown cooling.

Sure, I can't provide information to say it is not needed / needed, but there 'IS' a reason why every modern turbo diesel uses them, and every modern turbo petrol engine worthy of noting.
Another factor - Carl Austin and myself have no problems with mega's failing, others have. We have undercrown cooling - none of the failed pistons did.

Next - 'oil pump' - write 'Avonbar powerflow' next to the high capacity part and you'll have no concerns. Note this below:

On 4th May, 2007 Avonbar Racing said:
Hi guys, we've always done the powerflow oil pump. Never advertised a superflow item??
Anyway.....Minispares have obviously played that copying game again and started selling our pumps. There's nothing we can do about that. I think they charge £38 for one. To you guys we can do them for £40. Not a load of difference. The only reason they can do them for that price is because they buy such big quantities.
The amount of free technical info we give out on the phone has got to be worth something *wink*

Take it easy



Agree with the above comments on the mains bolts too...

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Vegard

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On 3rd Oct, 2008 PaulH said:
I up rate the gear box fixings to M8 I have had gearbox bolt failure it is a very worth wile process although I do see your point Iain, the bolts are just not capable of holding a gearbox with more than 160hp It may hold together but when you go to strip the motor after a hard season you will more than likely find that some of the bolts have stretched or worse pulled although using a sealant like well seal will stop the leak it is not fixing the problem that causes the leak and also can contribute to gearbox failure as far a meat in the gear box flange when you increase to M8 you only have to overbore the gearbox bolt holes by 0.9mm as the holes are all ready 7.2 and 8.1mm will fit an M8 cap bolt,
all IHMO backed up by my own experience of course.


At least fit some 5/16UNFs in there instead of metric ones. M8 bolts are shit to have anywhere on your Mini. They WILL find their way elsewhere.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



TurboDave16V
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If you do go K1100 - you have a lot of block prep work to do later - so why go overboard now? Leave that till the point that you need to.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



t3gav

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Gavin@minispares.com

kent

Even if your order a genuine Rover oil pump a powerflow pump is supplied, our powerflow pumps are £29.38 now.


Rod S

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On 3rd Oct, 2008 TurboDave said:
Next - 'oil pump' - write 'Avonbar powerflow' next to the high capacity part and you'll have no concerns. Note this below:

On 4th May, 2007 Avonbar Racing said:
Hi guys, we've always done the powerflow oil pump. Never advertised a superflow item??
Anyway.....Minispares have obviously played that copying game again and started selling our pumps. There's nothing we can do about that. I think they charge £38 for one. To you guys we can do them for £40. Not a load of difference. The only reason they can do them for that price is because they buy such big quantities.
The amount of free technical info we give out on the phone has got to be worth something *wink*


Don't quite understand this....

I bought mine about 3 weeks ago from MiniSpares and it's a Powerflow - at least that's what is cast into it as the manufacturer's name and It's identical to the photos on Avonbar's website.

I had done a search on oil pumps and read that thread before buying and took Ian to mean that MiniSpares had copied his choice of pump, not done a copy of it.

Hence "The only reason they can do them for that price is because they buy such big quantities".

Even MiniSpares couldn't get away with mis-using a Trade Name right down to casting it into a copy ???


EDIT - I hadn't read Gavin's post when I submitted this, I am slow typing :)

Edited by Rod S on 3rd Oct, 2008.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


PaulH

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On 3rd Oct, 2008 Vegard said:



On 3rd Oct, 2008 PaulH said:
I up rate the gear box fixings to M8 I have had gearbox bolt failure it is a very worth wile process although I do see your point Iain, the bolts are just not capable of holding a gearbox with more than 160hp It may hold together but when you go to strip the motor after a hard season you will more than likely find that some of the bolts have stretched or worse pulled although using a sealant like well seal will stop the leak it is not fixing the problem that causes the leak and also can contribute to gearbox failure as far a meat in the gear box flange when you increase to M8 you only have to overbore the gearbox bolt holes by 0.9mm as the holes are all ready 7.2 and 8.1mm will fit an M8 cap bolt,
all IHMO backed up by my own experience of course.


At least fit some 5/16UNFs in there instead of metric ones. M8 bolts are shit to have anywhere on your Mini. They WILL find their way elsewhere.


I refer you to the post also made by sprocket.

Get 12.9 M8 cap bolts and the job is done.

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

______________________________________________________


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

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Well, Tis done.

Block, crank and rods are with MED.

In the end I've probably gone a bit overboard, but we are having the 4 bolt main. Also 5/16" UNF cap head bolt gearbox fixings.

MED do not do the undercrown cooling jets, so the jury is still out on them, but I'll see what I can do on my Mill.

Bought some nice pistons.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Sprocket

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On 3rd Oct, 2008 Vegard said:


At least fit some 5/16UNFs in there instead of metric ones. M8 bolts are shit to have anywhere on your Mini. They WILL find their way elsewhere.


I thought you at least would be wise enough to realise that there is something wrong when the bolt goes tight on only three or four threads.

I can see the difference just by looking at them. thread pitch is noticebly different

Besides, all, later minis especialy the MPis are a crazy mix of metric and imperial. I will be honest and say, why bother trying to be nostalgic about imperial bolts, where if you can use them, metric are much easier to come by in whatever grade size and type off the shelf.

Edited by Sprocket on 3rd Oct, 2008.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Yummy



MED/Omega FIS pistons. Forged +0.020".

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

anything i change to metric is easy to pot as its got a cap head.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Sprocket

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On 3rd Oct, 2008 mini13 said:
anything i change to metric is easy to pot as its got a cap head.


Exactly *happy*

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


robert

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uranus




On 3rd Oct, 2008 Paul S said:
Yummy



MED/Omega FIS pistons. Forged +0.020".

mmmm
spanktabulous.!!!
paul could you show the underside of that for me ?

with regard to the the engine ,
i would build the ultimate engine now .if you think you want a k headed mini ,one day ,do it now .

5 port wize , spend all you can on the cam and the head ,
these are the keys to a high power a series ,(imo) that and a well engineered ic.
matts k headed car is running around 100 terms on 6 psi with a 3 sec 60 ft ..so with a k head you dont need to use a lot of boost and the sturgmiester can get used to its antics .
in the long run ,building the engine you working up to building first , instread of the a series then k head , is the cheapest way to do it ..if thats your ultimate goal.

hope it goes well
regards robert

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland




On 3rd Oct, 2008 robert said:



paul could you show the underside of that for me ?

with regard to the the engine ,
i would build the ultimate engine now .if you think you want a k headed mini ,one day ,do it now .

5 port wize , spend all you can on the cam and the head ,
these are the keys to a high power a series ,(imo) that and a well engineered ic.
matts k headed car is running around 100 terms on 6 psi with a 3 sec 60 ft ..so with a k head you dont need to use a lot of boost and the sturgmiester can get used to its antics .
in the long run ,building the engine you working up to building first , instread of the a series then k head , is the cheapest way to do it ..if thats your ultimate goal.

hope it goes well
regards robert


I'm funding the engine primarily to prove my manifolds, the GT1752 and fuel injection at 200+hp. The manifolds may then become commercially available. This is why we are sticking to the 5-port for now.

Sturgeo is providing the car and hopefully will help build it and pay for bodywork and chassis work.

If the fuel injection cannot be made to work properly on my 998, then we will re-assess and possibly go for the K head.

Underside of piston:

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

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