Possible Air lock
Turbo Mini Forums

Becasue i have a GT17, i decided to take advantage of the water cooling. Now on my car i have plumber a hose joiner into the bypass hose outlet on the bottom hose and gone in a loop into the GT17. This is probably slightly higher than the rad, the problem is i seem to have a lot of pressure and the cap is leaking a bit. Do you think if i brought the hose down below the rad the problem would be solved? and i would obviously get rid of the air lock?

stef

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"

When you say you've "gone in a loop" are you saying you're returning to the water back into the same hose? This could be the problem if so.

The additional heat put into the cooling system by cooling the turbo, could also be just be tipping the cooling system over its cooling capacity aswell?

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

as your only round the corner to me, i could always pop round and have a look. i also use a water cooled turbo with out problem.

Ive plumbed mine so it comes out of the pressure side of the pump and returning directly into the the top of the rad. Breather hose is fitted to basically where the thermostat housing is. Are you running a front or side rad?

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

When i mean in a loop i mean the phsical hose, so the flow is like this ......
but the actual hose that goes from the turbo comes up above the rad cap then into the old heater take off, not the bypase hose (sorry oversight on my behalf)

I'm just worried cause there was a lot of bubberling in the turbo water lines and obviously a weaping from the rad cap?

stef

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"

I got an airlock when my hose to the heater matrix moved and went above the rad. The heater all of a sudden went cold. I would move the hose to a lower level!

Not sure if this is the cause of the weaping rad cap though? Because the water wouldn't be circulating through the turbo with an air lock, would it? Try moving the hose down below the rad level and see if it cures it?

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

You could be seeing an increase in temperature because a lot of the water may be going through the turbo and not the radiator.

I'm planning on connecting the outlet from the turbo into the top hose. That way everything gets cooled.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

ministef1 your drawing is correct and to improve things you can go from the head, to the turbo, then the heater, then back to the bottom hose. this cools the water from the turbo before it goes into the main cooling system and helps the heater work better.

Paul S, as you may know i'm not a fan of the system you have sugested. by returning to the top hose you create a couple of problems.
1. your bypassing the thermostat when worming up, thus in winter it may never worm up properly leading to engine wear
2. when it does eventually worm up, and the stat open, your getting a reduced flow rate through your turbo as your returning the water back to the head/high pressure side of the rad. so when its hot and you need the cooling, you dont have normal flow rate.

I don't run a heater at all, so i'm just going to bend the hose joiner through 90 degrees so i can get the hose to a more sutible level, it was more to get the car going with the turbo rather than a long term fix. i don't run a stat either, just a blanking sleeve. The cap maybe due to the ally rad being slightly thin around the cap connection, i will bend the cap in slightly to increase the tightness of the cap to the rad, if that makes sense.

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"

p.s. mine is a fairweather mini, must put some anti-freeze in before winter......or drain the whole thing.......

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"

Do you just have water in yours??

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

I'm with Paul on that one..

The top is the high pressure? dont agree.. dont confuse flow and pressure. The whole radiator is at just about the same pressure, and weather you tap into it at the top or bottom doesnt make much difference. Most people only think of a pump pumping but it sucks as well!!

My return is to the top of the radiator and I can see the flow from the turbo through the rad cap when its off, believe me, its fine.


Terry

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

I guess it depends where you live and how you use it..

I am in a bloody hot country and dont use it much in the winter therefore top hose return, If I was in the UK and I want to drive it to work on Winters days then bottom hose...

Terry

Edited by Turbo Tel on 15th Oct, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

Ive got mine returning into the top of the rad too. Completely different setup but works fine for me too.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

You're best to return the water to the rad, so it gets cooled before it gets pumped back round the engine. Otherwise your continuously pumping the same (partly) uncooled water back through the system.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

water and summer coolant, think it only goes to -5 or something.......gets cold in my garage though!!!

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"

Edited by Turbo Tel on 16th Oct, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk