What drive shafts are you runing
Turbo Mini Forums

Ok people have done a searching and read a good deal of posts on the subject and there seems to be some indifference on the topic so I want to do some averaging on the subject to decide the best route for the racer.

So what do you run and what power?

Medium = STD - 150HP
High power = + 150 HP

Can you elaborate on any problems you may have had with you chosen setup?

If you have something different to the possible choices please list ?

Standard Pot joint - Standard Drive shaft / medium Power	10 Votes - 0%
Standard Pot joint - Standard Drive shaft / High Power	14 Votes - 0%
Standard Pot joint - Exotic Drive Shaft / medium Power	1 Votes - 0%
Standard Pot joint - Exotic Drive Shaft / High Power	0 Votes - 0%
Hardyspicer type Joint - Standard Drive shaft / medium Power	3 Votes - 0%
Hardyspicer type Joint - Standard Drive shaft / High Power	3 Votes - 0%
Hardyspicer type Joint - Maxi Shaft / medium Power	0 Votes - 0%
Hardyspicer type Joint - Maxi Shaft / High Power	0 Votes - 0%
Mini Spares special drive shaft / medium Power	0 Votes - 0%
Mini Spares special drive shaft / High Power	0 Votes - 0%

Hardy Spicer all the way . Makes it easier to take the engine out without fucking around with ball joints

I second that!!

I'm on pot joints with std shafts, never had a problem.....yet!

Team Racing

Standard everything...probably the next thing to go wrong though! Lol

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

my 67 S has been a racecar all its life. Raced in SCCA in Sedan classes until 1978. I bought it in 78 and ran it in C Sedan for a year, then in GT-4 until 1980. I retired and parked it for 20 years. The car is a then-state-of-the-art 60s racer, always ran with a Longman inclined-valve head on a 1293 with flattops with a Boffo 460 cam. Never dyno'ed, wild guess maybe 120hp. Have gone to MED's scatter cams since then, car pulls good from 4000 to 8000. The car/suspension is severely lowered. Its all Mk1 stuff, early BMC SC/CR box, no rod change which would allow an engine tilt; and without tilting the engine, the driveshafts have to be at a big angle. As part of the un-retirement and conversion to vintage racer, I replaced the HardySpicer u-joints, since then ran it only a few times in HSR vintage, maybe once every 2 years. Never broke a driveshaft or U-joint, but last time out (2006) broke the CV joint exiting the hairpin at Barbour Motorsports Park.

Mike Brown Cow Racing snapped a standard driveshaft clean off at the large C clip on the outer CV joint, last year at Santa Pod/ Mini In The Park. he managed to get the car fixed after a visit to the auto jumble :)

On 31st Oct, 2008 Sprocket said:
Hardy Spicer all the way . Makes it easier to take the engine out without fucking around with ball joints

I seriously doubt it!

I think maybe he means pot joints.

[quote=Sprocket,31st Oct, 2008]Hardy Spicer all the way . Makes it easier to take the engine out without fucking around with ball joints[/quote

how is the engine easier to change with Hardy Spicer?
with pot joint you just lift the engine, wobble it about and carry on lifting out, no need to remove road wheels or ball joints

We run standard drive shafts in the hillclimber. Over the years we have broken one pot joint and two dif output shafts. I would bet that as our car uses slicks and only sees tracks that the shafts see more loads then people here with more power (not everybody). I don't think I will consider anything else bearing in mind cost vs reliability.

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http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

I have seen JKD hardy spicer shafts twisted beyond use at the splines for the hardy spicer. I have also seen the same shafts snap, again at the outer CV end. Those rally Minis know how to break stuff :)


As for removing the engine with Pot Joints. You are having to fuck around with eather the joints themselves, clean and regrease, or fuck around trying to seperate the shaft from the joint trying not to split the boot. With Hardy Spicer, 8 nuts and they are free


And while Im here

people talk about the need to have the drive shafts as level as possible. With modern CV joints, its bollox. Put it this way, how often with drive line be perfectly inline while the car is in use, never. The whole' keep the driveshafts level stems from the 60s when UJs and Hardy Spicers were in use. The problem with Hardy Spicer joints is they have a funny characteristic. The output end of the joint will accelerate, decelerate every 180 degrees. This is not so much a problem when there is another identical joint at the other end where its output is constant.

In the Mini, there is one UJ and one CV, therefore, if the drive angle of the shaft is greater than about 5 degrees, the driven wheel accelerates, decelerates through each revolution, hence the need to try and keep the shaft angles as tight as possible to zero degrees.

CV joints on the other hand are designed to keep the driven end at a constant velocity no matter what the drive shaft angle. The driveshafts themselves at steep drive angles do not sap any noticable power other than the small amount of friction that is inherant in the joint anyway, which is fuck all of a Midgies dick.

I have hardy spicers on my Sprint but am thinking of changing to pot joints. Anyone know the weight difference?

On customer cars (with pot joints) Ive always lifted the motor a little then knock the complete pot joint out of the gearbox, then wiggle them out the way. No split boots or splitting balljoints.

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

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Tadaaaaaa!!!

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oooh shiny

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A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

O/T I know, but the splitting ball joints or not issue.....

I think it's personal preference as to how everyone takes an engine out.

I prefer to lift it as complete as possible, with as many ancilliaries on as possible, especially the radiator.

In a steel shell with inner wings and the radiator still on, that means next to no side movement of the engine so it is nigh on impossible to get the pot joints fully out of the diff without lifting the engine quite high first.

So I prefer to split one ball joint each side, 5 minute job..... I can then pull them out before I even start to lift the engine, and no wiggling about required.

I also find it makes it easier to enter the pot joint straight (so minimise risk of damaging the lip seal) when putting it back together.

So whilst I know it can be done without splitting the ball joints, I prefer to split them - personal preference :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

This is a timely discussion.

Our new motor has Hardy Spicer driveshaft but no couplings.

I was going to change the shafts and fit pot joints with an ATB diff.

So I'm now thinking of using the HS shafts and getting some couplings.

Swifty sells adaptors for the ATB diff to fit HS couplings.

It will make engine removal easier, IMO.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

you have to drop the oil with pot joints too, not hard i know.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

I seriously doubt it!

carl last time i saw your car it had thoes shiney shafts with hardy spicer couplings. still the same?

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

oh anyone had pot joints (inners) that won't come through the subframe?

thats another reason i like the spicers,

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