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Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

I'm making slow progress on my K100 build but the block is off to MED next week to be bored etc.

Next big job is sorting out some thrust washers.

The engine consists of a 998 block bored +0.120" and an 850 crank giving a nearly square bore-stroke. Should be good for 9000 rpm, but will probably be limited to 8k.

The problem is that the crank centre main journal is 1/8" wider than the 998 so special thrust washers are needed.

I'm discussing having some made with Oselli but expect this to cost megabucks.

I've got a chunk of phosphor bronze that I could use to make some myself, but I'm not too confident that I can get them accurate enough.

The option I'm considering is making some spacers out of an old set of thrust washers by thinning them on a surface grinder. i should be able to get this done locally. The standard washers are about 0.090" thick so just need around 0.030" taking off.

The lip that holds the washers in place in the block and cap is only 0.060" deep, so this will not hold both the spacer and bearing in place, so I need to locate them somehow.

I could just TIG the spacer to the washer but I expect some distortion, so not happy about that one.

So I could either just locate the spacers and washers with dowels or fix them with screws.

Which way would be best.

Photos courtesy of FastCarl and Wil_h


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Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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12307 Posts
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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

how different are small bore thrusts to large bore ones?

there was somon on the vintage mini racing forum who was looking at doing thicker thrusts for putting S cranks into A blocks.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

I'd deffo go with the screws if using 2 thrusts. This is because I'd rather any iol stays between the crank and thrust rather than between 2 thrusts.

I can't see that using 2 thrusts screwed on would be a problem.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland


On 18th Nov, 2008 mini13 said:
how different are small bore thrusts to large bore ones?

there was somon on the vintage mini racing forum who was looking at doing thicker thrusts for putting S cranks into A blocks.


The large bore thrusts are the same thickness but 1/4" bigger on the ID and 1/8" bigger on the OD.

I would have thought that an S crank fitted an A block with standard parts.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

On 18th Nov, 2008 wil_h said:
I'd deffo go with the screws if using 2 thrusts. This is because I'd rather any iol stays between the crank and thrust rather than between 2 thrusts.

I can't see that using 2 thrusts screwed on would be a problem.


Just a bit trickier to do. Don't fancy the idea of breaking a tap in a block that has had a few hundred quid spent on it *oh well*

Edited by Paul S on 18th Nov, 2008.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.

Paul , claqmp the two parts together in a vice with soft jaws, the just run the tig along the outer edge using no filler rod, you would get no noticable distorsion if you leave it in the vice to cool

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

ahhh,

found the post i was thnking of,

dosent actually mention whether they are small or big bore.

http://www.atfreeforum.com/mk1mark/viewtop...&mforum=mk1mark

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

I agree with Carl that an autogenous weld, performed clamped in a vice, is unlikely to create distortion enough to worry about, BUT, I would be concerned about the affect the heat of welding would have on the bond between the bearing material and the steel backing plate.

Not the bearing material itself, but the bond......

Also, your local machine shop may refuse to surface grind the spare washers to make your spacers unless you have removed all the bearing material first - it could wreck their wheel otherwise.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Thanks guys.

Right, I have a plan. I'll try it out on some old thrusts.

I'll TIG them together, back to back. Maybe a couple of short tacks rather than a continuous weld.

Then linnish the bearing material off one side. If there is any damage to the bond, then it will be apparent when trying to remove it.

Then I can get the machine shop to gring it to the finished thickness.

I'm hoping that a magnetic grinding table will pull through the bearing material.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk


On 18th Nov, 2008 Paul S said:
I'm hoping that a magnetic grinding table will pull through the bearing material.


A good machine shop would put a couple of suitable thickness steel "plates" around the bearing when pulling the magnet through the non-magnetic material, to act as restraints/holders in case the grip isn't strong enough by itself.

The magnets on a surface grinder mag table are incredibly strong though, especially if you know where to position things on the "snakey" line.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rob H

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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

Interesting, let me know how you get on as I'm also interested in a set of "fat" thrusts for the same reason.

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Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

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Norway

This is the wrong way. Fitting S-cranks in A blocks would need THIN thrusts. I would know, as I'm fitting an A crank in an S block *wink*
I'm having .030 ones ground down.

On 18th Nov, 2008 Paul S said:

On 18th Nov, 2008 mini13 said:
how different are small bore thrusts to large bore ones?

there was somon on the vintage mini racing forum who was looking at doing thicker thrusts for putting S cranks into A blocks.


The large bore thrusts are the same thickness but 1/4" bigger on the ID and 1/8" bigger on the OD.

I would have thought that an S crank fitted an A block with standard parts.


On 18th Nov, 2008 Paul S said:
I'm hoping that a magnetic grinding table will pull through the bearing material.


It will. I've tried. However, I'm grinding down bot sides, as the bearing side is far from flat from the factory.

Edited by Vegard on 18th Nov, 2008.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



miniboo

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Las Vegas, Brit in the States

If all goes well paul i may ask you to make me some or at least steal the idea that works so i can fit the 850 crank to my build.


Paul S

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Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Oselli have come back with a price of £90 which was less than I thought it would be. They would still need finishing to size on a surface grinder.

I'm still going to TIG a couple together first though. It's good to have a fall back position if necessary.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

Why surface grinder, what about fly cut?

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland


On 20th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Why surface grinder, what about fly cut?


I think the only way to hold them would be a magnetic table. Then a fly-cut would be a bit aggressive.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


PaulH

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Dublin Ireland

would it be possable to tack them to a piece of round bar and finish them in the lathe

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook




On 21st Nov, 2008 Paul S said:

On 20th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Why surface grinder, what about fly cut?


I think the only way to hold them would be a magnetic table. Then a fly-cut would be a bit aggressive.


Speak to the Head Shop UK in Warrington, they are always up for doing something different :)

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

http://www.astonmartinparts.co.uk/

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Vegard

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7763 Posts
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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 21st Nov, 2008 Paul S said:

On 20th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Why surface grinder, what about fly cut?


I think the only way to hold them would be a magnetic table. Then a fly-cut would be a bit aggressive.


This is by FAR the easiest way!

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Well, I think this might just work.



I did the lower one first, tacked it in about 7 places and managed to damage the bearing surface slighly.

After a bit of cleaning up, rubbed it against a bit of 1200 on some glass and oil to lubricate and it very quickly came up clean. Hence no distortion.

I linished the bronze off the other side and there was no evidence that the bond was affected.

The upper one, I just tacked at each end and at the two points where the bearing surface is relieved. Came up much better. OK as long as the four tacks are enough.

Not sure whether to do the lower tanged one again. I've probably only lost about 1% of the bearing surface.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

just put the worst ones on the radiator end where thy won't take the clutch force.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland


On 22nd Nov, 2008 mini13 said:
just put the worst ones on the radiator end where thy won't take the clutch force.


That's just what I was thinking. I might even just remove some of the bearing material where there are shrinkage cracks in the surface.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

yes, i agree, better remove it now than have it flake later.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



miniboo

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348 Posts
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Senior Member

Las Vegas, Brit in the States

How did you get on with this Paul? Have you had them finished to size yet?

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