electrics!
Turbo Mini Forums

ok, the exhaust moved and melted through the main battery cable coming from the boot, this sorted against the bodywork and the car cut out, quickly got to the battery and disconnected the earth, replaced the melted cable, checked for 12v at the starter solenoid, 12v there. got 12v at the ignition switch, but when i switch to ignition, i dont have ignition light and cannot start the car, went across the switch with a meter and checked to see if it was switching, which it is (changes from open circuit to closed) but i havnt checked yet to see if there is 12v on the other side of the switch when you throw to ignition and then final throw to start.

no fuses are blown, anyone got any ideas? i can only imagine its the ignition switch at fault, as if the starter soldeniod was fooked, you can still get an ignition light cant you


help me!

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

Probably shagged the alternator would be my guess.

It wont be the alternator stopping it starting...


I would start by checking the earths... if you burnt out the feed its likly you damaged the earth to the battery!

12v on a multi meter is no guarenty that it will take a high load either, so re check all the connections you made.

alex

AlexF

The alternator won't stop it starting, True

But it does control the ignition light.
And its output was connected straight to earth :(

Disconect the alternator anyway as if its blown it will discharge the battery.

Shorting the main power to earth could easily cause multiple problems, so check power one stage at a time.

The battery won't have liked that treatment either so check thats in good condition as well.

The other thing I would consider would be the battery itself, it is possible that the huge current draw on the battery when it short circuited will have knackered the cells inside the battery, so that it will show 12v with only a light current draw, but then when you switch to a heavy current draw (e.g. try to kick solenoid in and start car) the voltage drops to bugger all....

Try reading the voltage across the battery as your mate or someone tries to start the car. One of the high-load battery test meters they use at the quick-fit type places would be the best way to check if you can take them the battery somehow.

cheers guys,

i will put in an old battery i have an alternator, the earth cable was very melted, that has already been changed. i'll check through the rest of the loom, i'll get a new ignition switch today aswell. i'll let you know how it goes

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

tom, i will give that a go, but even if the battery was knackered, and not produce enough current to start the engine, i still should get an ignition light shouldnt i?!

time to get the manual out and start checking different points

cheers all

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

On the ignition light front, gibbo is right. Really the ignition light is not truly a light that tells you ignition is on, it is a 'no charge' light that is controlled by the alternator, so that when the alternator output voltage is low, the light is on. So for a start, check the bulb in the dash is working, then change your alternator.
But you should actually be able to crank the engine over whether the alternator light is on or not, so still check out or change your battery.
As a point of note, I had the same thing happen on my first car when I was 17, replaced the cable and everything else was fine, so sounds like you have been unlucky!

Melted Cables anywhere in the loom?

I did this - had so much trouble with the loom afterwards i replaced it

Edited by SumpNut on 20th Sep, 2004.

Firstly, do any of the other electrics work when you turn the ignition on? e.g. radio, wipers etc.

If they do then it's definately a problem with the statrting circuit, if not then it's more fundamental.

Does your car have the later type pre-engaged starter motor?

If so, this is controlled by a relay (attached to the inner-wing on the off-side). Worth checking this.

Also, I can't see that how a short before the alternator will cause it any damage. I'd have to look at the circuit to confirm that though.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

im going to charge up another batter today and put on another alternator tomorrow (back shift today) and see how that goes, i will check the loom tomorrow aswell sump nut, will keep you all posted...only need the car for a couple more weeks then its going off the road to be used in competition only, sods law!!!!

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|

well, i got the engine to start, changed the alternator, although i dont think that had anything to do with it, put a new ignition switch on at the same time, still nothing, think i was fiddling around with the wires that go to the coil, and i had ignition and it fired up, so typical mini problem solving, and a fiddle with a few things and it'll fix itself without you even knowing what you did to fix it!!!

thanks for all the advice people gave me though

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|