mini build
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Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

No not necessarily a bad thing... remember the fibreglass silhouette shell ive still got for sale

Edited by D4VE on 9th Sep, 2014.

Can you post some photos of how you have tied into the front subframe

I am still figuring what to do with mine, for me the main problem is trying to tie things together 'across' the toeboard as any tubes placed like this have to pass behind the pedals

Cheers

I can do mate, will be later though as i cant upload straight from the phone
Its no where near the standard of your conversion though

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

that awkward moment when you realise you dont have any pictures of the cage

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

found this too

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Cheers Brett,

If you do get any of the inside at any point I'd be interested to see, especially the stuff going on behind the accel pedal.

1000 bhp / metric ton is going some, how much do you reckon 600hp spec will cost, how do the Honda boys get on gearbox wise at this power / torque level?

Cheers

P.S. Your build is just fine, I think for your intended purpose (Strippage ) everything is exactly where it needs to be, as far forward and as low down as it can be. But I really would ensure something like 22x8x13 slicks can be accommodated

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 11th Sep, 2014.

just been to grab these, i apologise if there crap lol
its not finnished yet that bit just needs tidying with a grinder and paint

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

as you can see the mini is full o crap,
the 1st and 3rd pic may actually be the same what you can see there doesnt interfere with the heels either throttle brake or clutch the clutch pedal is the closest when its fully down
power wise these bottom ends there is a good few examples running 500bhp on stock internals and forged pistons, that really is the limit on the cylinder liners, to punch through 500 reliably you need a set of sleeves the best ones are by darton and are used in all the 1000bhp civics,
forged pistons rods and darton sleeved will see you up to 700, ive been reliably told the heads dont start to restrict untill around 750bhp
the gearboxes again seem to cope with 700 quite easily, the factory lsd boxes seem to be the ones to go for, there are straight cut gear kits and sequential mechanisms but these are big bucks lol
i would say a fully built a series turbo k head would set you back 8-10k a full on build with the B series would be in the same cash scale but net 4x the power

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

On 11th Sep, 2014 Aubrey_Boy said:

P.S. Your build is just fine, I think for your intended purpose (Strippage ) everything is exactly where it needs to be, as far forward and as low down as it can be. But I really would ensure something like 22x8x13 slicks can be accommodated

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Thanks again Brett,

Nah you just need x2 of the slicks, any more is just ballast (IMHO)

The cage related welding looks more than competent, I can't see the other welds clearly. I find it especially difficult to weld in the car (getting too old, can't ever get comfortable or properly see what I am doing) and as you can see from my build I get most of the other stuff done by a friend because welding does my head in, just seems so hit and miss

I am sure the Wilwood pedal box I have has longer pedals than std Mini which is causing some of the routing issues.

My thoughts are entirely similar to what you have done already as far as internal bracing goes.

Not specific to what you have done, but definitely be 100% sure about how you attach the forward lower tie bar (whatever it's called) Under braking this joint sees a lot of load and is along way from the stiffest parts of the frame (the bulkhead area) I chickened out from having any forward mounting points because of this

500Hp on std internals and gearbox!, now that is some proper Honda over engineering, the gearbox especially I am concerned at half that with mine...

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 11th Sep, 2014.

o

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

damn ,,,now i want a Honda engine.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Robert, you would be able to extract 6000hp from 7psi going by your track record.

Looking great Brett. So it's confirmed that the rear wheels won't be dragged up the strip then?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Are you going to put a tube from the where the two tubes meet in the centre of the bulkhead (just above the tunnel) to the passenger side A pillar? (like the roll centre design).

Or the normal subframe mounts still aren't doing anything.

Really like the bottom mount idea though, really good way to tie in the subframe, good stuff!

That looks good to me, it's 'contained' in the corner of two pieces of box section, its not just welded to the side of the box section like I have seen on some, the joint is positioned in the middle of the box section so its not creating any nasty bending moments, as long as the welding is OK it's as good any solution I have seen.

I like the positioning of the engine mounts on Honda / K series conversions as the powertain weight is held much closer to the bulkhead, the structure forward of this is really only for the lower tie bar, on the XE I don't like the fact that the two main engine mounts are so far from the bulkhead, I looked at doing something similar but just had to get started and it was another complication holding things up.

You have tied the towers to resist twisting which is good, the only bit that I never like about cut up A Series frames is the area below top wishbone front mount/nut it looks like its in fresh air as I know that there is no room to reinstate the vertical piece that was originally there, but everyone is like this so it can't be too much of a problem.

The hybrid subframe that was originally in my car was 33kg!

Cheers

EDIT:

I didn't realise that AWD was on the cards, have you had a CRV (that's the box they use?) gearbox in there?

Just wondered if there is clearance under / around the rack for the transfer gubbins, your lateral rear brace (up behind the rack) looks suspiciously tucked out of the way as though you have already considered this

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 12th Sep, 2014.

On 12th Sep, 2014 Aubrey_Boy said:

EDIT:

I didn't realise that AWD was on the cards, have you had a CRV (that's the box they use?) gearbox in there?

Just wondered if there is clearance under / around the rack for the transfer gubbins, your lateral rear brace (up behind the rack) looks suspiciously tucked out of the way as though you have already considered this

Edited by Brett on 12th Sep, 2014.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

this is how it stood 6 odd months ago
Uncle Carls at force racing built some arms to my specs and also a beam to hang them from
the rest of it i built, the whole rear end including diff weighs less than a standard rear subframe only just though
im going to dig out some pictures showing what it started as, upto how it is now


the main points the design had to include was to mount every part of the rear end from be mounted to the cage as good as if it was one piece and able to be jacked up fast without damage to the diffuser thats yet to be built and to look good, the rear most triangle will be visible once the diffuser is fitted,

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Oh yes!!!!!

In the 13's at last!.. Just

At fucking last lol

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

About time!!

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Shite the bd that looks cool

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

strengthening for the top arms / towers

rear arms and beams

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

the start of the rear end

Edited by Brett on 5th Jun, 2020.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett