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Mr Mini

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184 Posts
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Portsmouth

Hi,

Can anyone tell me whether this tap set is suitable?

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...p-die-set/path/

I need to make some of the head stud threads deeper into the block by 2-3mm. Any advise on taping as I have never done it before, and dont want to do anything stupid!

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion


tadge44

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That set is OK for rough work and will not last very long.Go to a tool supplier and buy the specific size that you need in a decent quality.Most suppliers will be helpful if you tell them what you are doing and dont patronise them.


TurboDave16V
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I have got both the machine mart sets - purchased when I was in a bind and needed some dies on a job away from home.

They are actually not that bad. They are very good for the money - but I'd not trust them to do a new hole in any kind of decent steel. Cast Iron - they'll probably be ok.

BUT - as advised - you'd be better off looking on the ebay and finding a used 'old school' tap - maybe a few in a set - along with a sturdy tap wrench for your job. I say 'old school' because a good used presto tap that is 20 years old and costs you 4 quid or so will outlast anything you can get for under 20 quid new...

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Paul S

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I have one of those sets.

I've actually done quite a few 5/16" threads in stainless and the taper tap is only just starting to get blunt.

Beware your head studs are 3/8" UNC are they not?

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Rod S

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I too bought one of the Machine Mart "Tungsten" steel sets..... As above, it's "OK" but I have broken two of the split dies.

Now I just buy proper HSS taps and dies in the sizes I need - there are good NOS deals on eBay but you have to be patient.

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Tom Fenton
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I've also got that set, it is fine for DIY work in my opinion, I've had mine 8 years and would buy another tomorrow.


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Mr Joshua

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I would recommend going to your local cromwell tools warehouse thats where I get all my taps from. Like the saying goes, "Buy cheap buy twice".

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Rod S

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Just shows people's experiences vary :)

Apart from Paul's point about you will need UNC, not UNF, if it's the threads in the top of the block,....

They are also blind holes so you need a "bottom" tap (preferably a "second" and a "bottom") if you are drilling deeper.

The Machine Mart multi boxes usually only give you "taper" or "first" taps.

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Mr Joshua

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On 27th Jan, 2009 Rod S said:
Just shows people's experiences vary :)

Apart from Paul's point about you will need UNC, not UNF, if it's the threads in the top of the block,....

They are also blind holes so you need a "bottom" tap (preferably a "second" and a "bottom") if you are drilling deeper.

The Machine Mart multi boxes usually only give you "taper" or "first" taps.
True I have ended up grinding them flat in the past.

Own the day


Rob H

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As per what the others said really, I also started off with one of the Machine Mart sets and found them OK but the lack of a bottom tap is a pain especially for what you want to do. I've since brought sets (taper, second, bottom) of specific taps from RDG Tools for the more common / more frequently used sizes.

On 27th Jan, 2009 Mr Mini said:
Any advise on taping as I have never done it before, and dont want to do anything stupid!


Make sure you use the correct size drill being out by as little as 5 thou either way makes a big difference.

Practice on something first.

Make sure the tap is straight, this can be trickier than it sounds.

I was taught to wind the tap in two turns then wind it out a turn, then in two more, then out one etc, does anyone else do this?

EDIT: Can anyone recommend any taps for use with TI?

Edited by Rob H on 27th Jan, 2009.

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Paul S

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In a half then out a quarter in my day.

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Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Tom Fenton
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I'm do the same as you Paul on anything tough. Ally I have been known to just rive it straight through :)

Tapping paste also helps, I've always used Trefolex green snot, does the job.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Mr Mini

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Portsmouth

Hi, thanks for all your responses.

On 27th Jan, 2009 Paul S said:


Beware your head studs are 3/8" UNC are they not?


Aren't they 7/16' UNC, not 3/8' UNC?

On 27th Jan, 2009 Rod S said:
They are also blind holes so you need a "bottom" tap (preferably a "second" and a "bottom") if you are drilling deeper.

The Machine Mart multi boxes usually only give you "taper" or "first" taps.


I was also told by someone else that I need a plug/ bottom taper. I suppose this rules out the Machine Mart sets. Trouble is, I dont mind spending decent money on a taper set (when I say decent money im assuming a figure less than 100).

It would be nice to have a starter, second and bottom, with different threads, including UNC and UNF (not worried about metric). Can anyone advise of a supplier that makes decent sets (but not OTT decent) that includes this stuff in one set. Im not going to use it all that much - and tbh it may make more financial sense atm to buy a set, as I went down my local and was quoted a price of 17.00 for the bottom tap, and about the same again for a handle, although decent parts none the less.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion


TurboDave16V
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=220350229896

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=390025432365

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/?_nkw=unc+tap...c+tap&_osacat=0

You get the idea???


On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Mr Mini

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Portsmouth

Hi,

Just to double check...if I want to lengthen the thread by a few mm..but not right to the bottom (say for aruments sake 2/3 way down), would you simply just use a second tap, or would you use a second tap and then finish it with a bottom tap, even though its not at the bottom?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion


joeybaby83

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youll need a plug tap for deepening the stud holes

*edit* as per rods comment, doh!

Edited by joeybaby83 on 28th Jan, 2009.

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