Dry decking - Machining?
Turbo Mini Forums

Can't find nothing on a search regarding machining the head and dry decking?

Whats involved, has anyone carried out this? Looking at the M.E.D. kit, and a few pictures of miglia minis, I'm guessing you need the head drilled and skimmed for the adaptor to go in and sit flat..

Anyone got any pictures?


Thanks.. :)

Lightweight racer coming soon.

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index...dpost&p=1336407

thats a good link Sproket, do you know if the soak in diesel is any good never heard of it before lol

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Mega pooh, you have to be a TMF member to look at the pictures.

cheers for the link.

Here are the pictures.

Lightweight racer coming soon.

Just a note on this.... I looked at the MED kit and even had a word wilth Steve their.... The MED kit serves a purpose but in my opinion is a kind of half way solution as it doesnt actally keep water and oil from the gasket. It seems to be a steel shim plate that stops just the water transfer.... so if water can get to one side of the gasket then is it actually achieving what you set out to do. I know its more work but hey..... It keeps me amused..... all the brass plugs are G type threads... ie taper threads.... that way they wont ever drop into the coolant even if they did come loose.... They are all sealed with Loctite thread sealant so they shouldnt come loose anyways but belt and braces rules ...... The head spigot hole is easy to spot face but BEWARE..... use a mill to cut the hole that actually caries the coolant..... you can prob see that the old heater tap position provides a part of the casting that drops into the line of the hole you are machining.... If you drill this hole you end up with an off centre hole due to the drill being forced to wander.... I started smaller and worked up till I found what was going to happen then took the lot off the drill and set up on the horiz Mill..... In hindsight Ill do the lot as a milling op if I do another one. I always flycut a head or a block.... surface grinding only serves to make a polished finish..... gaskets get a 'grip' with flycutting and consequently dont move and so last longer.... in my opinion. Their isnt much land to drill and tap for the spigots.... Im using M5 but the block spigot needs a bit removing to clear and match the engine steady fixing.....

Re the question about soaking in diesel..... Its a cheap way of doing a first off clean up..... a couple of gallons of diesel in an Ikea storage box with the block in and a selection of paint brushes from the cheapo DIY stores costs a lot less than the equivalent in jizer and it does get the muck an crap moving to start with..... after the diesel scrub Ive pressure washed it then used jizer then some more clean jizer.... then washed it out with IPA... cause ive got some.... then coated all the exposed parts with castrol rustilo DWX30 and painted the block....

BTW... somewhere on TMF im offering machining services... This is not my full time day job but if anyone wants something special doing drop me a line or, for those who know him.. contact me through Sprocket...

Kudos to Sprocket ....

Rob

sorry to get up in an old tread but since this one is very clear there is no need in opening a new one about it.
i have just a few questions so i can rest my mind that i am understanding this all correct.
so on the head you drill a hole one the ope-sit side of the water house so water can flow from left to right...
than on the block you open up the core plug ( and here i am a bit in the dark... you use hole to get the water in and the other is to get the water back out? or do you still plug one and use the original inlet and use of the holes to get it back out? or do the outlet connect to the inlet of the head? lots of questions actually.

just like the fackt that the water cant come to the headgasket anymore and the engine runs cooler.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Water goes in through the pump, along the block, out of the core plug and then back into the head through the new hole and then takes the usual route into the rad.

There are pics in my build thread (search 1275gts).

owkey answers it all. gona take a look at that tread to

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

For what it is worth, Force Racing sell a titanium adaptor that uses both core plugs to maximise flow if you preferred, they also sell the two individual ports.

When I used my ports, I did not have to open up the core plug itself, just drill and tap the fixings for it in the block.

When tapping the plugs in the block and head itself for the brass inserts (if you use brass), ensure you use the right tap! I used the wrong pitch like an idiot and had to pay for that mistake!

yeah, I picked up the wrong tap when i din mine and stuffed a LH thread in.....

then had to buy a LH die to make the plugs....

things to look out for then. spend 2.5 hours reading the 1275gts build tread yesterday... daim i tought i welded in allot of metal ( and it is to belgium standard where we tend to buy a new shel if the sils and front floor are rusted) but thats some mayor body work! and the engine looks great to. ( was to tyred to leaf a comment yesterday)

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Thanks. Hoping to be on the road spring/summer time and cash permitting.